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Do any of you guys know of a way to guaruntee Puddling won't happen in the intake and blow my engine to shreds? I have been going between a TT, Centri, Nitrous setup and since I already have a full wet kit, I would more like to go nitrous. Here's the catch - it IS my daily driver, and I would like a fully reliable car, of which I want minimal issues. Yes, I know - it's assbackwards, I want power and reliability. I'd be running a 125 wet shot btw. So all in all, the question about puddling and can nitrous REALLY be ran without issue?
Do any of you guys know of a way to guaruntee Puddling won't happen in the intake and blow my engine to shreds? I have been going between a TT, Centri, Nitrous setup and since I already have a full wet kit, I would more like to go nitrous. Here's the catch - it IS my daily driver, and I would like a fully reliable car, of which I want minimal issues. Yes, I know - it's assbackwards, I want power and reliability. I'd be running a 125 wet shot btw. So all in all, the question about puddling and can nitrous REALLY be ran without issue?
Don't spray below 3000RPM. Get a window switch. There are no guarantees with any power adder. Go to LS1tech.com and hit the nitrous section. Read the stickies at the top of that section and search the nitrous forum for answers.
Do any of you guys know of a way to guaruntee Puddling won't happen in the intake and blow my engine to shreds? I have been going between a TT, Centri, Nitrous setup and since I already have a full wet kit, I would more like to go nitrous. Here's the catch - it IS my daily driver, and I would like a fully reliable car, of which I want minimal issues. Yes, I know - it's assbackwards, I want power and reliability. I'd be running a 125 wet shot btw. So all in all, the question about puddling and can nitrous REALLY be ran without issue?
Nitrous puddling only happens when one of two things occur. The car is launched at a low rpm and a bog takes place at the line...engine then has a lack of fuel and excessive amount of nitrous in the intake. The second means of puddling would be due to a faulty system normally resulting from improper installation or poor maintenance.
Nitrous is safe when all of the proper precautions are followed. Reference the LSITECH nitrous section for good sound advice when running nitrous. There are some really good vendors on that section that will gladly help you run (setup) a kick *** safe nitrous system.
When it comes to power adders nitrous is the fastest setup for street cars when comparing apples to apples...meaning that a 600 hp nitrous car will out perform a supercharged car of equal power. Maggies make great torque but are turds in the 1320' and 600 rwhp is beyond their reach....centrifugal superchargers make great power (big numbers) but can't match the torque down low or maintain top end (trap speed) of a nitrous car when comparing comparable power numbers.
Last edited by 98vettedave; Jun 24, 2011 at 09:48 AM.
Reason: additional info
Thanks guys! The bogging theory kinda scares me a bit. But I'll head on over to LS1Tech!
Thanks again,
Rick
The bogging issue is not a theory,but rather a fact. As previously stated by others have your nitrous set to activate at a minimum of 3000 rpm,this will eliminate the possibility of puddling due to a bog at the line. Have your nitrous setup properly and you'll have safe additional power at the touch of the activation switch...now go have some fun on spray!!
well said 98dave, i used spray in my previous c4, and now tempting to spray on my modded N/A C5 z, Leaning towards Dry kit, but at the same time not afraid of going with Wet kit as well.
Zex #82235B black out kit tempting me actually but its a Wet kit, atlantic speedway got the best price.
Thanks for additional info guys! I know this is a general question, but will the ls6 clutch hold up the 125shot decently or will it just immediately slip completely?
Thanks for additional info guys! I know this is a general question, but will the ls6 clutch hold up the 125shot decently or will it just immediately slip completely?
Spinmonster did a really cool setup with a dry system and HPTuners, that will guarantee it won't puddle. I think he did a writeup on here. I hate dry systems, but the way he's got his setup I would actually trust and run....
Sorry i meant to say youtube carter01. BUY A WINDOW SWITCH FROM NITROUS OUTLET THE BEST **** OUT THERE ASK FOR GRAHAM ON THE LS1TECH NITROUS SECTION (BEST CUSTOMER SUPPORT EVER)
Religiously rebuild SOLENOIDS!! Under the hood heat can ruin a 25¢ seal on the NOS valve. Speaking from experience, we had installed a system 14 years ago on my friends truck. All the basics like RPM switch, throttle switch, remote bottle, I'm sure I've forgot some things since it's been awhile. Didn't have a NOS pressure gauge which would have shown pressure leaking down some!! Luckily when the BOOM happened it backfired threw the intake and blew the filter box to pieces. Lesson learned, even with all your safe guards in place the valves were never inspected and it always worked fine. Being young and not very wise was a problem as well. If it's going to be a D.D. use something that will monitor every aspect of the system. Hopefully that isn't a problem now days since technology is always improving. Just my little experience with it and what happened.
Nitrous doesn't puddle, fuel does. Run a dry kit and you will have no issues. That being said, a good Harris plate with 100-150 jetting and you are golden.
Nitrous doesn't puddle, fuel does. Run a dry kit and you will have no issues. That being said, a good Harris plate with 100-150 jetting and you are golden.
It's a matter of wording,but you are correct. Personally I prefer my direct port setup.
There is no such thing as puddling...... The nitrous and fuel mixture is through the intake and out the exhaust in a split second. Tune up is important with nitrous just as it is with any other power adder.
If puddling was possible all the guys that forget to turn there bottle on and the car falls on its face would be building motors. All the guys using blowers that provide fuel injectors before the throttle body would be building motors.
Nitrous back fires are usually a result of improper tune, wrong spark plug or not having a window switch. I have installed and tuned more nitrous systems than I can possibly remmember. I have yet to blow a car up other than my own. And it was non nitrous related.
The key is to get quality products from a manufacture that not only knows nitrous but knows your platform and can provide you with the technical help you need to do it right.