installed fuel system-issue?
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
For simplicity you can Tee into your Hobbs switch's vacuum line if it is close, if you do not have another port to attach the vacuum line for the FPR to.
Thanks,Matt
Thanks,Matt
Last edited by madmatt9471; Jul 4, 2011 at 10:29 AM. Reason: fix wordage
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
Okay good! So far you that is on the right track -
Have you been able to: (1) Pull the vacuum line off FPR (2) activate/jumper the pump to see the pressure and (3) then turn on the motor (with vacuum line detached) (4) set the pressure to 58 PSI (5) then put the vacuum line back on the FPR ?
Do you have a mechanical gauge on the FPR to look at?
Thanks,Matt
Have you been able to: (1) Pull the vacuum line off FPR (2) activate/jumper the pump to see the pressure and (3) then turn on the motor (with vacuum line detached) (4) set the pressure to 58 PSI (5) then put the vacuum line back on the FPR ?
Do you have a mechanical gauge on the FPR to look at?
Thanks,Matt
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From: VENTURA Ca
At his power level he does not need to boost reference the FPR.
You only need to do that if you're running out of injector at standard pressure.
I spoke to him over trhe weekend and had him bypass the Hobbs switch and make sure the pig pump is indeed coming on.
It should be quite evident when the big pump comes on. The pressure will jump and you'll hear the pump.
On another note, when setting the pressure for boost referencing, leave the vacuum line on the regulator.
If you don't, the pressure will drop (at idle) when you hook it back up due to vacuum on the diapragm in the FPR.
You only need to do that if you're running out of injector at standard pressure.
I spoke to him over trhe weekend and had him bypass the Hobbs switch and make sure the pig pump is indeed coming on.
It should be quite evident when the big pump comes on. The pressure will jump and you'll hear the pump.
On another note, when setting the pressure for boost referencing, leave the vacuum line on the regulator.
If you don't, the pressure will drop (at idle) when you hook it back up due to vacuum on the diapragm in the FPR.
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
At his power level he does not need to boost reference the FPR.
You only need to do that if you're running out of injector at standard pressure.
I spoke to him over trhe weekend and had him bypass the Hobbs switch and make sure the pig pump is indeed coming on.
It should be quite evident when the big pump comes on. The pressure will jump and you'll hear the pump.
On another note, when setting the pressure for boost referencing, leave the vacuum line on the regulator.
If you don't, the pressure will drop (at idle) when you hook it back up due to vacuum on the diapragm in the FPR.
You only need to do that if you're running out of injector at standard pressure.
I spoke to him over trhe weekend and had him bypass the Hobbs switch and make sure the pig pump is indeed coming on.
It should be quite evident when the big pump comes on. The pressure will jump and you'll hear the pump.
On another note, when setting the pressure for boost referencing, leave the vacuum line on the regulator.
If you don't, the pressure will drop (at idle) when you hook it back up due to vacuum on the diapragm in the FPR.
But that what is what the instructions say, they (Aeromotive and others) should change their instructions too!
Thanks again! I will give that a shot on mine.Thanks,Matt
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Nathalie VA
St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18
At his power level he does not need to boost reference the FPR.
You only need to do that if you're running out of injector at standard pressure.
I spoke to him over trhe weekend and had him bypass the Hobbs switch and make sure the pig pump is indeed coming on.
It should be quite evident when the big pump comes on. The pressure will jump and you'll hear the pump.
On another note, when setting the pressure for boost referencing, leave the vacuum line on the regulator.
If you don't, the pressure will drop (at idle) when you hook it back up due to vacuum on the diapragm in the FPR.
You only need to do that if you're running out of injector at standard pressure.
I spoke to him over trhe weekend and had him bypass the Hobbs switch and make sure the pig pump is indeed coming on.
It should be quite evident when the big pump comes on. The pressure will jump and you'll hear the pump.
On another note, when setting the pressure for boost referencing, leave the vacuum line on the regulator.
If you don't, the pressure will drop (at idle) when you hook it back up due to vacuum on the diapragm in the FPR.
Not saying you can't run it boost referenced, but there should be noticable difference when the 2nd pump comes on.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Nathalie VA
St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: somewhere shooting my assault rifles
The Hobbs switch I got with my AA kit didnt fire until 7 psi when I tested it and by then my FP had already dropped so much my tune was suffering. I ended up buying another Hobbs that fires at 2 psi instead and its much better now that pump fires as soon as I hit boost instead of 5+ psi and pressure already dropped.
I regularly test my Hobbs switch with my Mity Vac and make sure pump fires at 2 psi.
I dont run boost referenced in last 20K miles on my setup and all is fine this way. My year is a PITA as my stock fp regulators my year are in the tanks and I just never got around to fabbing up check valve in stock line to run boost reference regulator. My fp is rock solid 58 psi and afr's perfect to 6700 so I just left it as is.
I regularly test my Hobbs switch with my Mity Vac and make sure pump fires at 2 psi.
I dont run boost referenced in last 20K miles on my setup and all is fine this way. My year is a PITA as my stock fp regulators my year are in the tanks and I just never got around to fabbing up check valve in stock line to run boost reference regulator. My fp is rock solid 58 psi and afr's perfect to 6700 so I just left it as is.
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Jul 4, 2011 at 08:05 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Nathalie VA
St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: somewhere shooting my assault rifles
Yes they are and when I tried to get to the screw to adjust mine it was a bitch getting to one of the screws to pull apart the switch as they filled the access hole with sealer. I had to cut out around it to get to the screw to remove switch top. I ended up ruining the screw trying to get to it removing the sealer on top of it and had eventually had to cut head off it to take top off. Total waste of 45 mins trying to get to that screw to pull switch apart just to get to adjustment inside. I had already ordered another switch for a spare.
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Jul 4, 2011 at 08:33 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Palmdale, Ca----- 2009 Cyber Gray 4LT A6 F55 452 RWHP 422 RWTQ- RIP 1998 C5 734 RWHP & 585 RWTQ-----
There is a rubber cap on top of the Hobbs switch which covers the adjustment screw. This screw is sensitive so take care when making adjustments.
To come on later or more PSI = Clockwise
To come on sooner or less PSI = Counter Clockwise
Thanks,Matt
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,389
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From: somewhere shooting my assault rifles
The new ones with the sealed Metripack Connector top have to be opened up to adjust the set screw for changing psi activation. One of the screws to remove the top section is sunk down into a recessed hole and sealer filled on top of it. Its a bitch to say the least to get to that screw with sealer on top of it and filling the hole.
The older switches are easy to adjust but connectors out the in open and I didnt like that design at all.
Here is the Metripack Connector design and you can see the raised hole for one of the screws and the other one easy to get to:
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/576
The older switches are easy to adjust but connectors out the in open and I didnt like that design at all.
Here is the Metripack Connector design and you can see the raised hole for one of the screws and the other one easy to get to:
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...roducts_id/576
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: somewhere shooting my assault rifles
That place can overnight it to you im sure or pull it apart and change the setting inside. You will need a Mity Vac that does pressure or similar setup to put some pressure on it and a ohm meter to now when it activates while adjusting though or just take a guess at it ccw a little bit. You cant adjust this sealed top type with it on car and plugged in.
Last edited by Z06supercharged; Jul 4, 2011 at 10:43 PM.