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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 11:49 AM
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Hey Guys, Got a code to come up the other day p0342 wondering if it is still safe to drive with the light on, and as i read looks to commonly be the 3 cam bolts backing out and allowing cam to walk forward a little bit..

Is it ok to run vehicle with this light on?

Does the PCM run as it would with the light on or does it tell it to run in reduced engine power mode?

I honestly dont want to pull the engine apart as i just got it tuned and its alot of work to tighten the 3 bolts when the supercharger is mounted. Any ideas?

Starts hard occasionaly cam was swapped out with small blower cam and we used red locktight but its still possible that they backed out..
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 12:18 PM
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I had this happen and for me I would not drive it. Its only one of a few things, wiring issue to the cam sensor, the sensor or the bolts. I started at the sensor, its easier to check and rule out plus the wiring can be checked at the same time and ruled out, was the cam bolts backing out in the end. Another forum member just went through this and for him it was the sensor so take your starting point and start from there.

As for driving it if one of those bolts comes free you are looking at even more work and money spent, if its the bolts.

Good luck,

Darion
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 01:49 PM
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I plan to forge this winter and i just want to drive it.. Just hoping that its intermittent. And it drives fine
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Old Jul 4, 2011 | 04:52 PM
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I hear ya. If it is the sensor then it may come and go if the bolts are backing out the issue will persist and get worse. Car will not start as easy as normal because the cam sensor and the crank sensor are not in sinc as far as the computer is concerned, as I understand it. Smallest amout of front to back movement will cause issues as I found out. I caught it very early and all bolts were loose but not backed out to where there was a big gap.

Like I said I would not drive it but I wasn't looking to forge the engine anytime soon either.

Good luck to ya,

Darion
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 02:45 PM
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Anyone have a write up on how to check sensor and the wiring before i tear apart the engine.. Would love it to be just the sensor rather than the bolts backed out. And what the sensor should ohm out at.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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The sensor is behind the intake manifold and under the windshield cowl, manifold has to come off the the sensor can be removed. I have a service manual that I can scan later in the day if ya don't get what ya need.

Darion
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 04:02 PM
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Was red locktite the wrong color to use?
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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Yes always use Blue.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 05:22 PM
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Is there a reason to use blue opver red? I thought red was perminent and blue was semi perminent
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 05:53 PM
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Red could make it very hard to remove the bolt(s)/nut(s) if repair is ever needed. Either red or blue should keep the bolt(s)/nut(s) from coming loose.
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Old Jul 5, 2011 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by C5sleeper
Was red locktite the wrong color to use?
Red bottle or product? It gets confusing when their red bottle has blue product and their blue bottle has red product. Red product is more permanent than the blue product and therefore has better holding power. One thing many people miss is cleaning the bolt holes and bolt threads with a good solvent to ensure a good bond.
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Checked the sensor, looks to be ok wiring looks ok as well.. Looks like i found out what the problem looks at.. Cam bolts no good Lets just hope when they get looked at they are loose or else im in real trouble
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Old Jul 6, 2011 | 11:28 PM
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Originally Posted by C5sleeper
Checked the sensor, looks to be ok wiring looks ok as well.. Looks like i found out what the problem looks at.. Cam bolts no good Lets just hope when they get looked at they are loose or else im in real trouble
Thats the same way I felt but the bolts were the issue and now problem solved.

Darion

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