I've read the ttix installation manual but need some tips as all my attempts to install the silicone coupler and turbo compressor inlet tube on the pass side haven't been successful. I got the turbo and manifold to drop in, but had to unook the AC line as the directions said

the manual says to put the 45 deg turbo inlet coupler on the turbo first and then push the tube up into it. on my car the silicone coupler is right up against the ac coupler even with the AC line off it pinches the silicone coupler a bit which severely ovals out the coupler. I noticed this was also a problem with the original install as the old one was worn through so I bought a new coupler. I do seem to have the special alum fitting already installed and it looks like the pictures in the manual. the clearance right behind the AC fitting and the silicone coupler just doesn't seem to be enough.

I thought about removing the AC compressor but this probably won't allow getting the AC fittings back on after the coupler is installed.

I tried for hours to get the tube on and I just can't get it. the manual calls to put the tube in a vice to oval it out which looks like it might help a bit. but on my car it seems like the coupler is more egg shaped than round and is resting right up against the ac fitting.

I also tried to put the silicone coupler on the tube and get it to line up which seemed to work better getting by the fitting, but then I really couldn't see to get the coupler to go onto the turbo compressor.

I did get it together one time by having the coupler on the turbo compressor first but I could see that the tube wasn't going into the coupler all the way and the "kink" in the silicone coupler wasn't allowing the from the back of the AC fitting pushed the tube back out when I tried to go further in. I also tried have the manifold loose so I could wiggle it and the turbo around a bit to get a straighter shot but nothing seems to work.

should the AC line be bolted up first? to me it looks like that would make it worse not better.

any tips you all can share, I'll call TTIx too to see if they have anything. I probably need a helper to get this step done. someone to push from below and guide from the top.

all I got for my sunday was scratched up and frustrated but I need to regroup and get this done! this is another case where getting it apart is easier than getting it together. any advice is much appreciated.

 

Man give BLOWNZ06 a p.m. in here. He is a vendor and sale,s and more also install"s them. He knows them from front to back and tell you anything you need help on..... His name is Nick......

 

I feel your pain man, been there myself. Yes the A/C bolts up first. Yes it will rest against the A/C but will fit. You don't need to bend or egg the pipe. The new elbow is just tight and kinda needs some stretch to get the right fit.

My first install I did this without a cradle clearance, making it even more difficult. Is yours clearanced? After I got the cradle clearanced and some stretch in the elbow, it goes in better. You should leave both hose clamps loose so you get the perfect angle. Keep at it, after some rest you will get R done!

 

yes, mine not clearanced. is it better to put the silicone coupler on the tube first or the turbo first.

haven't had any luck either way, I did spray some wd40 to make the coupler more slick which helped. I think another pair of hands is what I really need and putting the coupler onto the pipe and having someone guide and wiggle it from the top pinching the coupler a bit to get it on the turbo. this is one job that "seems easy" but isn't.

I'm beat up but fortunately the bleeding has stopped

 

No wonder you're having so much trouble. I put the elbow on the turbo first. Then try using a pry bar help slip around the tube. A little clearance on the cradle will help you alot. Here's what mine looks like, which happens to be on the floor right now. Another way is to lower the front cradle a bit. However a very determined person can get it without dropping the cradle or making the clearance, it's just more difficult.

 

EXACTLY what he said...

You are going to have absolutely lower the cradle if you have not already, this will make it a lot easier.

You also want to have the AC lines and the compressor in place BEFORE you try to put this coupler on there.

But do what he said, put the coupler on the turbo, with the clamp, put the pipe in after, it will not be perfect. If you can get a decent angle on it pinch it a bit oval in the vice, it will go.

This is the hardest part with it in the car already.. Out of the car it is a snap. Which of course will not help you...

 

I have never dropped the cradle but that would free up the angle the pipe goes in. what I was seeing is that the coupler was "pinched" by the ac fitting and pretty oval. when I had the coupler on the turbo first, and finally got the tube in I had trouble pushing it all the way up. so I put some wd on it to allow it to slip in and it would force back out before I could get it clamped.

I need to look at this again but can you clearance the cradle with it in the car?? what is involved in dropping the cradle? I do have a service manual so I guess it's time to read up. the ttix turbo z06 has been stone realiable up to this point so all I've had to do to it is change oil and plugs it's a great car and I really miss driving it!!

I didn't think this would be quite as hard as it's been but I'm broke as I just bought an old 71 TA and need to finish this up.

thanks again for all the tips!

I had one last "goofy" idea which might help. the biggest problem I have is that pushing the pipe up from inside the wheel well you are kinda flying blind and can't see the coupler all that well.

I thought about cutting up an old coke alum can and taping some strips sticking out of the coupler to allow the pipe to slide in easier and help guide it in. once in, I can pull the strips out (i'd drill a hole in the end and have a string on them).

 

chris stewart was very helpful through email when i did my install...i however DID clearance the k-member and still had issues (mines actually cut all the way to the circle in the picture too).i just ended up putting the elbow on the pipe,and running the rest of the intake pipe for the filter then just egged it in a vice once i figured out what angle the pipe needed to be at...i actually have a long rubber 45 degree elbow laying here that a friend gave me and im going to modify it just for that to make it easier when i drop my new shortblock in

 

I haven't had much time to work on the car but thanks to the great advice I dropped the cradle and got the intake pipe on.

a few things I learned. the "new coupler" needed to be trimmed to match the old one that came off. that did the trick after I dropped the cradle to get a better angle.

now I ran into another snag. I need to snake the dip stick tube through the manifold and get it back in. I think I can feel the hole it goes into into the "bat wing" of the oil pan. It's pretty tricky

also trying to bolt back up the down pipe will be a chore.

wish I had the cash to just take the car somewhere and get back on the road. it's been 95 plus and my garage is hotter than belief which makes this even tougher

would a lokar or flexible dip stick be worth it? with the tight clearances and "working blind" I wonder if this needed to be done first!!! but looking at pics of my engine before I took the manifold off I believe there would be no way to do that.

time for those that have "been there and done that" to inspire me again

 

Dipstick goes in the block, about even with the #6 plug. Start the downpipe with 4 bolts from the bottom, leave them all 1/4" loose. Goto the top and install / tighten that one first, try the ratcheting wrench. Then back downstairs and tighten the rest. Its not that bad, you're almost there.

 

good tips on the downpipe. I need to pry it up just a bit to get it to line up. must have tweaked it a little wrestling the turbo around

on the dipstick, I noticed that it goes behind the AC line. that's blocking my view of the hole. It kinda snakes into the manfold between 2 and 4 cyl and bolts to the head. maybe if I pry the AC line out I can get a view of the target and get the dipstick in.

thanks for the tips! big help, please add any more. I'm closer than I was, but everything has been a bit of a struggle so far