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From: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Originally Posted by Mike04
Doug, I have a question for you with the coupler since you have lots of driveline experience. The rear TT bushing housing can only go so far forward when seated in the TT housing. So is the forward movement transfered from the converter driveplate through the rear bearings and forward? I'm just trying to get a handle on this.
I'm passing on my RPM coupler to Scott because it is out of my car due to the jingling noise I experienced with it at idle and low RPMs and I'm getting nevious about not having one in the car....
I discussed this earlier in this thread I think. On paper, and by all reasonable accounts of logical physics, the driveshaft cannot move forward in the tq tube causing this issue. However.. every time I have seen a thrust bearing issue, it has always been pushed forward, and when the bolt that locks the shaft in the stock coupler is released, there is a loud "tong" noise as the shafts pressure is released.
It has baffled me honestly, but we have confirmed that the slip coupler has fixed every car we have seen this happen too with no other modifications to the car, which has been a handful of them at this point. Plus what we see and hear about from other local racers too.
Originally Posted by a/c man
Mike I think your ok your problem was that the input shaft of the torque tube was hitting bottomed out in the back of the crankshaft Im hoping ECS can tell us more about this thrust problem
You confirmed it was hitting? That would certainly cause the problem. There is normally a lot of extra room in there, are you sure?
Originally Posted by Mike04
I'm always lookng for another issue to stress about though
I discussed this earlier in this thread I think. On paper, and by all reasonable accounts of logical physics, the driveshaft cannot move forward in the tq tube causing this issue. However.. every time I have seen a thrust bearing issue, it has always been pushed forward, and when the bolt that locks the shaft in the stock coupler is released, there is a loud "tong" noise as the shafts pressure is released.
It has baffled me honestly, but we have confirmed that the slip coupler has fixed every car we have seen this happen too with no other modifications to the car, which has been a handful of them at this point. Plus what we see and hear about from other local racers too.
You confirmed it was hitting? That would certainly cause the problem. There is normally a lot of extra room in there, are you sure?
Need a job?
thank you Doug! Im going back together sat with mikes old auto coupler i feel safer even if it rattles their not cheap but less than a crankshaft! my car had a pilot bearing installed in the crank shaft for a 6 speed standard have no idea where it came from or who put it there its a eagle 402 crank im taking it out and i hope its not needed again thanks bro!
From: Providing the most proven supercharger kits for your C5/6/7 609-752-0321
Originally Posted by a/c man
thank you Doug! Im going back together sat with mikes old auto coupler i feel safer even if it rattles their not cheap but less than a crankshaft! my car had a pilot bearing installed in the crank shaft for a 6 speed standard have no idea where it came from or who put it there its a eagle 402 crank im taking it out and i hope its not needed again thanks bro!
I have left them in and taken them out, doesnt seem to make any difference really.
I can't even keep my car together let alone accomplish anything on the honey do list..... A job too
I think I've had everything else break on my car, to include a thrust bearing burning up from a bad crank. I guess I'm a little gun shy and things keep me up at night. My Mod Fever has mutated into something much worse
I can't even keep my car together let alone accomplish anything on the honey do list..... A job too
I think I've had everything else break on my car, to include a thrust bearing burning up from a bad crank. I guess I'm a little gun shy and things keep me up at night. My Mod Fever has mutated into something much worse
Im ready to sell everything and buy a bone stock Z06!!
I have left them in and taken them out, doesnt seem to make any difference really.
Oh and Eagle crank?
good luck with it.
Thank you Doug for helping out when its not even your problem Yea I know my egale crank is a p.o.**** but for now its all I can afford It was installed by another shop! in Dallas they said I was getting the best
Im ready to sell everything and buy a bone stock Z06!!
I look at the new C6 ZO6s driving down the road and dream.... All I have had for almost a year is a car on jack stands and a steady drain from my bank account. I'm getting close to buttoning mine up though.
The crank I had that was bad wasn't an Eagle if that makes you feel better.
Im ready to sell everything and buy a bone stock Z06!!
Me to I'm only around 700whp drive for a week, up on stand for two mounth. Seems like this is the norm with my car one thing or another. It never fails. But i must admit when it comes of the stands and the gas pedel to the floor it remines me why i continue to put up with the break downs and upgrades that are not needed but wanted. Anyway
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Me to I'm only around 700whp drive for a week, up on stand for two mounth. Seems like this is the norm with my car one thing or another. It never fails. But i must admit when it comes of the stands and the gas pedel to the floor it remines me why i continue to put up with the break downs and upgrades that are not needed but wanted. Anyway
ok its back up and running everything seems good drove it to work a last 2 days only thing is the new drive line coupler makes a rattle sound like a loose catalytic converter but mike warned me about that so Im going to live with the rattle
ok its back up and running everything seems good drove it to work a last 2 days only thing is the new drive line coupler makes a rattle sound like a loose catalytic converter but mike warned me about that so Im going to live with the rattle
I guess used the RPM spline lock ?
I wonder why they rattle so much ? I had one of the earlier versions and i didn't here anything other than the solid metal couplings that transmitted some noise when they were spinning away.
I wonder why they rattle so much ? I had one of the earlier versions and i didn't here anything other than the solid metal couplings that transmitted some noise when they were spinning away.
I have the last part at the bottom of this page got it used from Mike a member he said it was too loud for him Now I see why he sold it but some guys say that it will stop my main thrust from going out because it can slip I just pray the thrust holds up now!http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/newproducts.html
I have the last part at the bottom of this page got it used from Mike a member he said it was too loud for him Now I see why he sold it but some guys say that it will stop my main thrust from going out because it can slip I just pray the thrust holds up now!http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/newproducts.html
I had the older RPM version where it would lock down on the spline, I'll have to dig up some pictures and post them.
I have the last part at the bottom of this page got it used from Mike a member he said it was too loud for him Now I see why he sold it but some guys say that it will stop my main thrust from going out because it can slip I just pray the thrust holds up now!http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/newproducts.html
I warned ya the thing rattled At least you don't have to stress about pushing the crank forward again and burning up the thrust bearing. Maybe some type of thick lube would help with the rattle. I was going to try that but the car didn't stay together long enough to experiment.
Glad you got the car back on the road, wish I could say the same for my car. Maybe this weekend...
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