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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 02:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Warp Factor
Since he's in Europe, that's probably Research Octane, which is different from the way we calculate. It could be the same as our pump premium.
Using Shell V-Power Premium, in Finland Shell advertise that it is +99 octane. Other gas stations sells 95(oct)E10 and 98(oct)E5 .Shell is the only station which sells 95(oct)E10 and V-Power.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by C5kid
Had this exact same problem. I'm positive it's valve train noise. I would get 2-3* timing pulled no matter what I did, had the timing down to 8* and would still pull timing. I am running Yella Terra's w/ Comp Cam R lifters.

Finally I put a tank of Sunoco 100 and left the timing @ 8* and it STILL pulled timing. So I knew it was false knock. I just detuned them alittle, I agree w/ not turning them off all together. There is a table in HPT that allows you to change the senstivity once you go over a certain RPM.
I have the same problem with my car. I had the timing @ 12 and car was pulling 4-5* timing down. I hav to call my buddy tomorrow and i think we hav to try change the sensivity over 3000RPM and see is there any changes.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 02:53 PM
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Take a look at your datalogs. If you are only using 50% throttle, you will be in a different cell in the timing table than you are at WOT. The timing values at lesser throttle percentages are usually higher. You will need to lower timing in the part throttle range.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by teme
It is showing up as knock and it pulls the timing -6 and the car stops accelerating. Haven't touch the sensors. So do u think that i'll need to change the rockers back to 1.7:1? Planning to change A&A corvette stage 4 cam next winter and use 185 rockers on that cam.
It won't hurt to try and won't take too long to do with a good set of tools.
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 05:43 PM
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Mine was doing the same thing... Turned out to be false knock the 98 computer was expecting from the sudden volume of air / fuel being added... Basically I increased the number in the Burst Knock Retard Delta Cyl Air to 6 and she straightened right out!
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by teme
Using Shell V-Power Premium, in Finland Shell advertise that it is +99 octane. Other gas stations sells 95(oct)E10 and 98(oct)E5 .Shell is the only station which sells 95(oct)E10 and V-Power.
Gotcha. I don't think octane has anything to do with your issue, but just so you know, North America uses RO + MO / 2. To do the conversion, we would also need to know the Motor Octane of the fuel you use.

As others have mentioned, putting in a much higher octane than needed can still be a useful diagnostic tool. If knock doesn't change, it's probably not really knock.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 12:53 AM
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Ok, just for grins, go in the spark retard tab> Enable delta cylinder air and max everything above 2800 out by setting the value to 8. Then go to the vs. RPM tab and put 0 in everything from 2800RPM up. Tell us what happens. I've never seen burst knock show up as KR unless it was real burst knock, hence the need for another independent PID. It should be raised if it's stock values anyways.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 08:50 AM
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My buddy has the datalogs on his computer, HPT is his so i can only tune the car on weekends. But i am going to buy HPT for myself, so all this is going to be much more easyer to try out.

I will try ZAVOD and BLOWNBLUEZ06 advises as soon as i get HPT for my buddy of from the store.
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo-Geist
Take a look at your datalogs. If you are only using 50% throttle, you will be in a different cell in the timing table than you are at WOT. The timing values at lesser throttle percentages are usually higher. You will need to lower timing in the part throttle range.
We was tunin the part throttle tables, the car wont let me even go over 50% throttle without knocking on HPT.
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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
Ok, just for grins, go in the spark retard tab> Enable delta cylinder air and max everything above 2800 out by setting the value to 8. Then go to the vs. RPM tab and put 0 in everything from 2800RPM up. Tell us what happens. I've never seen burst knock show up as KR unless it was real burst knock, hence the need for another independent PID. It should be raised if it's stock values anyways.
Got HPT today. I'll try to make those modifications tomorrow.
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Old Sep 30, 2011 | 12:20 AM
  #31  
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Just for the record, you could also have carbon buildup in your cylinders and a seafoam treatment might help with that. I've seen crazy things like clogged catalytic converters cause knock too.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
Ok, just for grins, go in the spark retard tab> Enable delta cylinder air and max everything above 2800 out by setting the value to 8. Then go to the vs. RPM tab and put 0 in everything from 2800RPM up. Tell us what happens. I've never seen burst knock show up as KR unless it was real burst knock, hence the need for another independent PID. It should be raised if it's stock values anyways.
Finally had some free time to try out those settings. It got from bad to worst. As soon as boost starts to build up, the car stops working. So what are the conclusions form that??
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by teme
Finally had some free time to try out those settings. It got from bad to worst. As soon as boost starts to build up, the car stops working. So what are the conclusions form that??
By "stops working" you mean "reduced engine power"?

If that's the case, pull your codes from the DIC and list them. In case you don't know about that, you have 6 buttons on the right side of your dash that allow you to view different things. 1 is the top and 6 is the bottom. Turn the key on and hit "reset" until all messages are cleared and then hold down button #4 with your thumb. While holding it down, quickly press button #1- 4 times. It will begin listing your codes. You can manually navigate through those codes by hitting #4 again.
List those codes. Probably P1514 or P0106 and then 1278.
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 11:20 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
By "stops working" you mean "reduced engine power"?

If that's the case, pull your codes from the DIC and list them. In case you don't know about that, you have 6 buttons on the right side of your dash that allow you to view different things. 1 is the top and 6 is the bottom. Turn the key on and hit "reset" until all messages are cleared and then hold down button #4 with your thumb. While holding it down, quickly press button #1- 4 times. It will begin listing your codes. You can manually navigate through those codes by hitting #4 again.
List those codes. Probably P1514 or P0106 and then 1278.
Sorry, i'll try to explain it different way. So when the boost starts to build It wont take RPM's so quick. Still getting knocking but not so much. There's no codes. Max. knocking was 6* and at the moment advance was 15*
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by teme
It is showing up as knock and it pulls the timing -6 and the car stops accelerating. Haven't touch the sensors. So do u think that i'll need to change the rockers back to 1.7:1? Planning to change A&A corvette stage 4 cam next winter and use 185 rockers on that cam.
I seen and read in here sometime back that the 185 rockers did make this happen on a few cars. The guys pulled them and went back and the problem did stop... I would try that would be a pretty easy fix if that is the problem if it dont you know it is something more. I would listen to BLOWNBLUEZO6 he has dont alot of work on these cars..... Robert
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 10:46 PM
  #36  
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My car did this before and it was a ground wire by the starter
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by teme
Sorry, i'll try to explain it different way. So when the boost starts to build It wont take RPM's so quick. Still getting knocking but not so much. There's no codes. Max. knocking was 6* and at the moment advance was 15*
SOOO what was the conclusion?????????
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