First off before suggesting a clutch, twin disk or better is the only option for me.

Car: 02 Z
Engine 402 with a YSi
Estimated power 800+ WHP (this is more then likely where the car will stay and live happy) but i do want to see if I can break 1,000 WHP just to say I did it.

Ok, so I want the RPS Tripple but it is just way out of my actual budget.

I've had the McLeod RST twin disk clutch and it was great for a car in the upper 600 WHP and low 600 WTQ range.

I considered the McLeod RXT twin disk clutch but my new power levels will be on the raged edge actually slightly over the limit for that clutch with absolutely no room to bump up the power.

I considered a Textealia triple disk clutch but as it was pointed out to me, they seem to be dying and I need customer support.

Spec is out of the question. The only way I'd use one of those is if I got it for free.

Centerforce clutch - not a fan of being a guinea pig.

I'm considering one of the following ACT twin clutch combos.

AC part number T1R-G01, T2R-G01, T3R-G01 or T3S-G01



any one run any of these clutches if so can you drag race and road race with it and how is the chatter and it's street manners? I guess I'm asking more about the "R" part numbers because my biggest concern is clutch chatter. As the "S" part number probably don't really chatter.

 

Good luck... I've tried more than a few with my 1000 +/- HP... All I can say is "its a shame you can't swing the RPS triple".... Its the best of the best... If I had a good experience with any of the others Id let you know, but I certainly didn't...!

 

IMHO-if you want to make big power and want to run a clutch-you really need to decide what you want to do with the car.

A good road racing clutch is not going to be a good drag racing clutch-unless you don't care about getting down the track fast.

This is where you need to be careful on what materials the discs are made with.

The ZR1 clutch is real nice-but I don't know how much power it can support-but it's smooth as silk.

Sorry not sure if I was any help but hopefully gave you something to think about.

 

Thanks stonabones and Arun.

Arun, in all reality the car is going to see limited drag racing time and probably just as much road racing time. Lol. It's a street pounder. It's all I ever intended on doing with the car. If I ever decide to get serious about drag racing, I'll ditch the manual gear box all together.

The biggest thing is it needs to not chatter a lot or sound like it's going to come apart and not come apart after taking it down the strip a few times.

 

MVP'S Z06, PM for ya.

 

you seem to like the mcleods what about their B & B street twin. It says it is rated for a bit more than the others.

 

I looked into the Borg and Beck street twin as Blownbluezo6 recommended but I read of people having issues with it and it being an older design. I'm not sure though. If I could get enough positive feedback on it, it's most certainly an option. thanks for taking the time to reply.

Darion PM returned!

 

I have a tex triple that only had a few hundred miles on it when I had to pull it.

For some reason the rear most disc spun on the splines into the input of the torque tube (don't think that disc was fully on the splines) Needless to say with a quicktime scattershield it was an absolute ***** to get out and I had to cut the center hub of the disc off the plate and shaft.

I have whats left if you want to give it a shot, Brent has been running his for a while and can give you more feedback.

 

Definitely consider the Mantic 9000 Dual Disc, I got mine from ECS. Drives just as easy as OEM LS7 clutch. Light pedal and easy to modulate. ECS has also put this in clutch in 2 or 3 car that have made over 1000rwhp, so it should be fine at your power level.

 

I really like my RXT and I think they say it is good for a lot more than rated.

 

I recently changed from the Tex triple to the ACT T2S-G01 twin organic. Pedal is a little heavier, but it really is smooth as stock to engage.

I havent been to a proper drag strip with it yet though, and likely wont til next year.
But it certainly feels good and ran a few 10's on an airfield no problem.
If the organic plates dont offer sufficient grip ( rated at 950lbft ) then you could easily and cheaply switch to puck style discs which will increase that by quite a bit )
Best bit is, they are pretty damn cheap to buy.

The Tex did work good for a few years, but it has issues and support for replacement parts was "difficult"

 

Thanks Stevie. That's the bad thing about the tex clutch is that customer support is becoming more and more scarce. The ATC clutch sounds great I just wanted to get some feedback from guys who are running one of the various ACT twin set ups. It sounds like you have had good luck with the twin organic disk. Now I just need to find some one who is running the puck style disks' and see if they have a lot of chatter.

 

If you dont intend to drag race it, then I'm sure the organic will be fine.

If you do, then the puck discs will obviously provide more grip and handle abuse better.

I'll stick with the organic until they give a problem, and if they ever do, I'll switch to the puck discs.

Another option that could be somewhere in the middle and a bit like a centreforce dual friction...what about using an organic disc and a puck disc ?

I'm sure Ive seen other brands do it

 

Seems like a nice clutch and it's under 2K which is cool. So, where are all the guys who run this. Clutch that are making north of 850 WHP and the same in WTQ? I want to hear from you guys.

 

what bout the Ram 2100n??

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAM-80-2100N/

Its really a shame that the only clutch that seems to work is a $3300 one for over 1k power... makes you want to just pull it back to 850ish and be done with it.

I have the RXT and i would not buy it again for what you are wanting for it.

 

How so ?

http://www.dragzine.com/features/sem...ches-from-act/


ACT twin with puck style discs and their heaviest cover is rated at 1450lbt for less than $1000.
Now Ive had a more expensive clutch previously, and it did hold the power. But it still had issues down to strength of components. So more expensive doesnt mean better

Just using the link as a reference, but I'm sure there are sponsors here that can supply.

http://thmotorsports.com/act/act_clu.../i-221720.aspx

or their heaviest cover with 2 organic discs, 1125lbft.

http://thmotorsports.com/act/act_clu.../i-221725.aspx

 

believe everything you read?? Sponsors are the last people you should believe 100%.. there are a few i like here, but they do PAY to be here and to SELL you something... You just switched to ACT.. next year, after you have used the, then get behind it.. I went thru a few clutches.. You could make a stock ls6 clutch work on 1200hp car as long at you don't have good tires.

 

What **** are you talking ?

Where did I say I ever spoke to any sponsors or indeed bought from any ?

I havent, so get real.

The last clutch I had was the ONLY clutch Ive ever had a problem with, and it was still working perfectly. However I had other concerns about it so stopped using it as couldnt get the replacement parts I wanted.
Before that, I just upgraded because something better came along, and still have the first aftermarket clutch as a spare.

And dont talk even more ****. Unless you were driivng on ice a stock LS6 clutch will NEVER hold 1200bhp.
Even the shittiest tyres will have traction on a dry road at 180mph+ and yes, the stock clutch if it lasted that long will never survive.

I'm stating fact. I now use the middle twin organic rated at 950lbft. It works great, it easily holds the power I have ( and I dont do dynos ) but suffice to say it has a reasonable amount.

I have no reason whatsoever to disbelieve ACT's ratings for the other models.

A friend here ran an ACT single on his Subaru and ran a 9 flat at 160mph before it started slipping, with over 800lbft behind it. Although it is an extremely light car.
That one was rated at 720lbft

Their clutches do work, and they are great value.

You may have went through a few clutches. That can happen for a few reasons. Bad choice, bad driver ( very possible ) or an actual bad clutch ( less likely )

No clutch maker can account for the bad driver though.

 

Then whats this?? haha bad driver.. don't suppose you want to meet anywhere and back up the bad driver comment for some cash do you? Your a moron and don't know anything about whats makes clutch work and don't work.. Don't be given advise if you don't have any real world experiences PERIOD!!! I back anything i say up..in person, on the net or otherwise.. Put the power to the ground with tires..and lets talk..


To the OP.. opinions are nice and make you feel warm inside, but research is the best bet...and go from there and hope for the best.

 

Mike... we have several ACT's on big torque/hp cars with zero issues...