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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 07:33 PM
  #21  
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I have a considerable amount of experience with turbo systems for multiple applications and vehicle platforms, from the initial design phases through fabrication/development to final production/installation/testing/tuning. I have had the opportunity to see a few different turbo systems for the C5 Vette, and I was most impressed with the TTI systems. The manifold design and construction, the turbo placement, the piping routing, etc. were exactly what I would like to see in a high-quality turbo system for my car.

Honestly, I am not too keen on mounting my turbos inside the fenders, where even a light accident could prove to be a very expensive experience. My car is also lowered quite a bit, so I don't think any piping running under the sides of the car would be smart. Rear-mount systems do not interest me at all for a couple of reasons, and top-mount systems with those headers right up high aren't even a consideration for me.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 08:01 PM
  #22  
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For the record I have an STS setup with upgraded turbos that Powertech did. Very happy with it. The UPP kit is priced temptingly, but I dont trust the off-brand turbos.
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 11:07 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Silnus
What are the turbo kits most guys are using and having success with? I know the ttix kit is good but a little pricey with the vette tax. What about UPP, Hinson, I know APS went belly up. Just trying to get an idea because I'm looking to spend some money on something soon. Thanks guys.
I don't charge a "vette tax". Many of my friends and customers own and drive these cars and in the good days I had one as well. I'm no longer a advertiser here and can't go into detail, I don't feel we overcharge for what we offer.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 01:55 PM
  #24  
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Until you install and own a car with a TTI kit, you can't understand how well thought out it is and how well it really works.
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Old Feb 9, 2012 | 04:06 PM
  #25  
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to remind everyone thats recommending TTi he said it was too pricey and was asking about other kits. just sayin...
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #26  
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Always good to set the record straight, and clear up misconceptions.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 01:42 PM
  #27  
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I'm gonna go custom and buy my own bends, turbo, IC, etc. Really does end up being cheaper but it's a pain.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:41 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Silnus
I'm gonna go custom and buy my own bends, turbo, IC, etc. Really does end up being cheaper but it's a pain.
and lots of fun too!!
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by r8ksbackwards
to remind everyone thats recommending TTi he said it was too pricey and was asking about other kits. just sayin...
If you can't afford to do it right then don't waste your time. All you're going to do is subject yourself to a great deal of aggravation.

Just my .02.
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 01:11 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mdaniel
If you can't afford to do it right then don't waste your time. All you're going to do is subject yourself to a great deal of aggravation.

Just my .02.
Tti kits aren't the end all be all FYI.
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Old Feb 17, 2012 | 02:01 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by StatmanRN
For the record I have an STS setup with upgraded turbos that Powertech did. Very happy with it. The UPP kit is priced temptingly, but I dont trust the off-brand turbos.
That's why we offer a 2 year warranty! Better than any warranty with any other turbo out there.

And for the record, there does seem to be a "corvette tax" associated with most parts for these cars. It's not saying that retailers/installers are making bank roll by taking the customers, but the manufactures sure are. Look at STS, (not ******* them, just using them as an example becasue they have one of the widest ranges of tt kits).

Universal twin turbo : $2995
Impalla SS turbo kit: $5395
Mustang Twin turbo: $7795
Corvette Twin turbo: $8795

Now the universal doesn't come with injectors or tuning or an IC, you can clearly see a pricing increase. I can't imagine that too much more goes into a corvette TT kit than a mustang.

Just my .02
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 04:36 AM
  #32  
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As an owner of a UPP kit, I will say that had I known all the little issues with fitment, etc I was going to have, I would have went a different route.
I was not happy with several things on the kit, but a few things were also because of mods I already had done to my car.

-As mentioned by a couple people already, pipes sit very low and I was rubbing just driving onto a dyno.
-Pipes rubbed on both sides in fenders
-Oil lines are all run under the car. Offers minimal protection against tearing them off.
-1 wastegate was broke from the start. (replaced them with TiAL's at my own expense)
-Cable for battery relocation was only 4 gauge. Not thick enough.
-A couple oil line fittings leaked.
-Instructions were terrible
-Bolts that hold turbo brackets to the frame should are just screwed into thin metal. Should come with an anchor or something. I know they will say the turbos don't move, but with the VERY real possibilty of rubbing on bumps, etc, they most definitely can move!
-Box of unlabeled nuts, bolts, and fasteners were not all there.
-I asked CK to come help me with the troubles I was having a few times. I offered to pay him for his time even and all I got was excuses why he couldn't come several times. Because of this, please don't ask me to post pictures of what I have changed. I will not share with him what myself and a couple friends have done to make this kit much better in my opinion.

These are just the things I can think of off the top of my head.

Now, all this being said. If you are willing to fix all these issues as I have and how I feel they should have been done in the first place, you can add another $700 to $1000 and at least 15 hrs of labor to their kit.

Not such a deal after all.

Fact is that this is a budget kit and should not be advertised as anything but. It is not up to the quality that other kits are. It isn't put together with quality name parts. They will use words like comparable to describe the parts. If you spend the extra on the other kits, you will get the parts that are being "compared" to.
I have bought a lot of different "bolt on" mods for this car and others. It does not meet the standards I have seen in many other aftermarket parts I have bought.

Last edited by S.U. Vette; Mar 6, 2012 at 05:32 AM. Reason: Add on
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #33  
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Reading all that makeS me not want to even put mine on and just do my ITB again. I wonder if I can get a refund
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 01:09 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by S.U. Vette
As an owner of a UPP kit, I will say that had I known all the little issues with fitment, etc I was going to have, I would have went a different route.
I was not happy with several things on the kit, but a few things were also because of mods I already had done to my car.

-As mentioned by a couple people already, pipes sit very low and I was rubbing just driving onto a dyno.
-Pipes rubbed on both sides in fenders
-Oil lines are all run under the car. Offers minimal protection against tearing them off.
-1 wastegate was broke from the start. (replaced them with TiAL's at my own expense)
-Cable for battery relocation was only 4 gauge. Not thick enough.
-A couple oil line fittings leaked.
-Instructions were terrible
-Bolts that hold turbo brackets to the frame should are just screwed into thin metal. Should come with an anchor or something. I know they will say the turbos don't move, but with the VERY real possibilty of rubbing on bumps, etc, they most definitely can move!
-Box of unlabeled nuts, bolts, and fasteners were not all there.
-I asked CK to come help me with the troubles I was having a few times. I offered to pay him for his time even and all I got was excuses why he couldn't come several times. Because of this, please don't ask me to post pictures of what I have changed. I will not share with him what myself and a couple friends have done to make this kit much better in my opinion.

These are just the things I can think of off the top of my head.

Now, all this being said. If you are willing to fix all these issues as I have and how I feel they should have been done in the first place, you can add another $700 to $1000 and at least 15 hrs of labor to their kit.

Not such a deal after all.

Fact is that this is a budget kit and should not be advertised as anything but. It is not up to the quality that other kits are. It isn't put together with quality name parts. They will use words like comparable to describe the parts. If you spend the extra on the other kits, you will get the parts that are being "compared" to.
I have bought a lot of different "bolt on" mods for this car and others. It does not meet the standards I have seen in many other aftermarket parts I have bought.

Well, I'm very sorry to hear that SU. I would have been more than happy to come assist you, but as I recall I had a medical emergency with a impacted tooth was my "excuse". I offered to come up after that but you said you were out of town traveling and I never heard back from you. I don't recall you offering at all to pay me, I was just going to help to provide great customer service, because at the time I know the instructions were very lacking. Had you offered to pay I would have told you to just bring it to me at my shop where we have lifts and all the tooling for everything.

To address some of your concerns:

With the W/G if it broke you should have let me know, I was clueless about any of this until this post kind of blind sided me here. I would have been (and still happy now) to replace it for you. It's all under warranty for that exact reason. I cannot guarantee that all the parts are made from adamantium and will never break, no one can, they're just parts. All I can do is stand behind them when/if they do (just like every other manufacture).

With the pipes rubbing, we never really had too much of an issue with the cars that we did in house, but the clearances were rather tight, and with the feedback that we got from customers on here having difficulty with it, we redesigned it and made it more like the C6 where it travels along the top of the fender lining, and crosses over in the front. Again, had you addressed this with me I would have been happy (and still happy now) to send you out the revised piping for FREE.

The oil lines do run under the car (as to with a lot of kits), however we provide the clamps to hold them tight to the oil pan, and if installed correctly, when looking at a side profile of the car they are NOT the lowest thing on the car. Meaning you're going to be damaging a lot of other stuff before you come into contact with the oil lines.

4ga battery cable is standard for battery relocation, look at any of the relocation kits on summit racing. Alot of people prefer to upgrade to 0ga, and that's fine, but 4ga is ample for most "normal" cars.

The bolts that screw into the frame are "fine" thread for that exact reason, to get more threads into a smaller area to ensure good contact patch. We've never seen an issue with this on any of kits that we've sold, including my own personal vette that I daily drove for over 2yrs. I looked into Huck-rivets for an anchor, but most people don't have a huck-gun in their garage to install this.

We did BDM's vette (C5) in house a couple months ago, and he has nothing but good things to say about it. I will say there is definitely a learning curve to installing these kits, and it may be difficult installing your first one, especially trying to get fitment of the bolt location correct. That's why it says very boldly in the instructions to test fit it assembled first to make sure you drill the hole in the proper place or proper fitment won't happen. We built all C5's with the same jig, and they all have fit fine. But again, if you ran into issues and for some reason there was a problem with yours, I would have been more than happy to address it. The #1 thing that I'm known for on here is my customer service. I want to make sure everyone is happy with their purchase no matter what. I sell a product that I believe in and I will fully stand behind. I think had these issues been properly addressed with me instead of blind-siding me in the forum, I would have been more than happy to resolve them for you. And like I said before I was MORE than happy to drive the 80miles to come assist you in the install, had our schedules worked out. I am very sorry that I had a medical emergency and couldn't make it when we had originally planned, but I did offer to return up there at a later date at your convince, and STILL to this day I would be happy to help you and address any issues that you have. But I do think that the protocol on how you go about addressing this needs to change, as going on blast on the forum is not the proper way to do it....


CK
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 06:11 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by CK@UPPCOS
Well, I'm very sorry to hear that SU. I would have been more than happy to come assist you, but as I recall I had a medical emergency with a impacted tooth was my "excuse". I offered to come up after that but you said you were out of town traveling and I never heard back from you. I don't recall you offering at all to pay me, I was just going to help to provide great customer service, because at the time I know the instructions were very lacking. Had you offered to pay I would have told you to just bring it to me at my shop where we have lifts and all the tooling for everything.

To address some of your concerns:

With the W/G if it broke you should have let me know, I was clueless about any of this until this post kind of blind sided me here. I would have been (and still happy now) to replace it for you. It's all under warranty for that exact reason. I cannot guarantee that all the parts are made from adamantium and will never break, no one can, they're just parts. All I can do is stand behind them when/if they do (just like every other manufacture).

With the pipes rubbing, we never really had too much of an issue with the cars that we did in house, but the clearances were rather tight, and with the feedback that we got from customers on here having difficulty with it, we redesigned it and made it more like the C6 where it travels along the top of the fender lining, and crosses over in the front. Again, had you addressed this with me I would have been happy (and still happy now) to send you out the revised piping for FREE.

The oil lines do run under the car (as to with a lot of kits), however we provide the clamps to hold them tight to the oil pan, and if installed correctly, when looking at a side profile of the car they are NOT the lowest thing on the car. Meaning you're going to be damaging a lot of other stuff before you come into contact with the oil lines.

4ga battery cable is standard for battery relocation, look at any of the relocation kits on summit racing. Alot of people prefer to upgrade to 0ga, and that's fine, but 4ga is ample for most "normal" cars.

The bolts that screw into the frame are "fine" thread for that exact reason, to get more threads into a smaller area to ensure good contact patch. We've never seen an issue with this on any of kits that we've sold, including my own personal vette that I daily drove for over 2yrs. I looked into Huck-rivets for an anchor, but most people don't have a huck-gun in their garage to install this.

We did BDM's vette (C5) in house a couple months ago, and he has nothing but good things to say about it. I will say there is definitely a learning curve to installing these kits, and it may be difficult installing your first one, especially trying to get fitment of the bolt location correct. That's why it says very boldly in the instructions to test fit it assembled first to make sure you drill the hole in the proper place or proper fitment won't happen. We built all C5's with the same jig, and they all have fit fine. But again, if you ran into issues and for some reason there was a problem with yours, I would have been more than happy to address it. The #1 thing that I'm known for on here is my customer service. I want to make sure everyone is happy with their purchase no matter what. I sell a product that I believe in and I will fully stand behind. I think had these issues been properly addressed with me instead of blind-siding me in the forum, I would have been more than happy to resolve them for you. And like I said before I was MORE than happy to drive the 80miles to come assist you in the install, had our schedules worked out. I am very sorry that I had a medical emergency and couldn't make it when we had originally planned, but I did offer to return up there at a later date at your convince, and STILL to this day I would be happy to help you and address any issues that you have. But I do think that the protocol on how you go about addressing this needs to change, as going on blast on the forum is not the proper way to do it....


CK
If you think about it, I am sure you will remember that there was at least 3 times over a 2 month period that you said you could come up and then changed your mind at the last minute. And yes I did offer to pay you the first time we spoke on the phone about it.

Myself and another forum member told you about the problem with the radiator cover in middle August, you said at that time you would have new ones made and sent out to us right away. First of September I asked you about the covers with no response. October 7th I asked again and finally received mid October. This all happened after the times that you backed out of coming up here and was the point that I gave up on you. The wastegate was discovered after this since I never found out until i got the car on the dyno. I did not want to wait again for a wastegate so I just ordered some that I knew would be good.

The oil lines were just pointed out since OP asked about the kits. Like mentioned though, there was a few fittings that leaked and it was just easier to go down the street and pick up new ones than wait for you to send replacements. I'm sure you could buy the same line pressure test kit and a/n fittings that I have and check these things before you send them out.

4ga is not enough for the Corvette's. If you search the forum, you will find almost everyone that has a done battery relocate on these cars has had problems with smaller cable.

The turbo mounting screws are easy fix. This kit already requires welding anyways, so why not include a huck rivet and have it tacked in. Works great!

If you are still willing to send your modified pipes, I will gladly accept them.

As a business owner that is so concerned with customer service, did you ever get back to me after impacted tooth? No. That is why you are getting "blindsided" as you say. If you had taken the time to get back to me after that incident you would have been well aware of how disappointed I was. Guess I should have continued to hound you.
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 10:42 PM
  #36  
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How much is the TTIX kit?
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 11:09 PM
  #37  
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S.U. I know your mean no harm in here, but you really should discuss this off this thread, mods will come in and lock up this one :/

Just lettin ya know bud
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 12:26 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by TriplBlk
S.U. I know your mean no harm in here, but you really should discuss this off this thread, mods will come in and lock up this one :/

Just lettin ya know bud
I don't want to get his thread locked but OP asked what kits people were having success with.
I was just letting him know my experience with one of the kits he asked about.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 12:28 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by S.U. Vette
I don't want to get his thread locked but OP asked what kits people were having success with.
I was just letting him know my experience with one of the kits he asked about.
lol I know man, I know how you feel too
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 03:04 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by evo2ls1
How much is the TTIX kit?
Kit alone?

Installed estimate with supporting needs?
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