Crank pinning question???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,793
Likes: 46
From: Elizabeth City, NC
Crank pinning question???
In the process of installing an A&A kit and doing a cam installation at the same time. I also just received my new powerbond overdrive balancer. Here is my issue, the powerbond balancer has dual keyways in it and the crank of course has none since its a stock LS6. The A&A crank pinning kit is the type that drills straight into the face of the crank, and I hate to have what would end up being 3 different notches cut into this balancer. So the question is...isn't there another style of pinning kit/fixture that drills down into the crank itself and not directly into the bolt face of the crank. Basically allowing the keyway in the balancer to slip over the pin in the crank? What do you guys recommend? Any suggestions??
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
Likes: 1,839
From: cookeville tennessee
In the process of installing an A&A kit and doing a cam installation at the same time. I also just received my new powerbond overdrive balancer. Here is my issue, the powerbond balancer has dual keyways in it and the crank of course has none since its a stock LS6. The A&A crank pinning kit is the type that drills straight into the face of the crank, and I hate to have what would end up being 3 different notches cut into this balancer. So the question is...isn't there another style of pinning kit/fixture that drills down into the crank itself and not directly into the bolt face of the crank. Basically allowing the keyway in the balancer to slip over the pin in the crank? What do you guys recommend? Any suggestions??
Robert
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
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From: Forney Texas
I can tell you what I've done in the past for a keyed crank balancer. I don't recommend it unless you or someone you trust is skilled and have/has the proper tools. I have a rounded carbide bit and a 90° angle grinder with speed control. I set the speed low then set the 1/4" bit in the channel and slowly cut it evenly, radiusing the 3/16" square to a 1/4" round channel. Cut as conservatively as you can, install the balancer and set your pinning fixture over the radiused channel. You'll have to be careful with this part because the bit is going to want to run away from the crank into the channel in the balancer. It's nice to have 2 pinning fixtures so you can stack them and help keep your drill bit square.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
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From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Bret, interesting point on the 'double stack'; this would only be req'd on the taper/round pin scenario?
DesRoche, I can machine you a fixture in double width if needed
I think you are basically asking if you run the pin in a radial config. vs. axial? I'm not a materials engineer but I would think the typical pinning(axial) would be less prone to shear.........bottom line, Bret's post above sums it up, keep things simple
DesRoche, I can machine you a fixture in double width if needed
I think you are basically asking if you run the pin in a radial config. vs. axial? I'm not a materials engineer but I would think the typical pinning(axial) would be less prone to shear.........bottom line, Bret's post above sums it up, keep things simple
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 2,793
Likes: 46
From: Elizabeth City, NC
I get what you guys are saying, but doesn't the ATI pinning kit pin the crank like a simulated woodruff key so to speak so you can slide the balancers keyway right over the inserted pin?
Last edited by LPDesRoche; Mar 14, 2012 at 09:04 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 793
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Not sure if your crank in kit is different than the one I got with my TVS2300 blower kit but when my shop installed my balancer which already had a keyway cut into it they drilled the crank as normal and used the keyway cut into the balancer as the hole for the pin to go into. Basically they lined the 1/2 hole drilled into the crank, from the pin kit, up to the keyway in the balancer and put the pin in there.
