So I want to do a stock block stock crank build. I have decided the following combo should be good. Targeting a CR in the 9.5 ish range. Currently have A&A blower with Si blower. I have plenty of time I plan to start collecting parts this summer.

Stock crank
Ported Ls6 heads
-11cc Wiseco Pistons
all the goodies head stubs ARP fasteners etc etc...

I was thinking Callies compstar H beams. What about Eagles, K1s, or Scats?

Which rods do you guys like and why I do not want to put the craziest expensive rod in there but something that I won't have to worry about and be confident if I go Ysi and push this thing to 750-800ish rwhp it will hold together. It may never reach that might get to 700 and be content.

Plans for the car are mostly street use, long road trips, the occasional track use, and texas mile.

 

Subscribed...

I am in EXACTLY the same boat as you and want the exact same combo... 750 ish and daily driveable/road tripable... and not have to cash in my 401k to fund it...

My LS6 just ate #5,7....

 

I will be following this too. My motor is solid still, but it never hurts to buy parts early if you find a good deal

 

I saw that in another thread sorry to hear about your issues I don't wish that on anyone not even Mustang drivers...

We may end up with the same exact setup down the road. I want to take my car on 400-600 mile trips without worries but light up the tires on command

My bottom end is fine too but I am gonna start collecting parts to build it either before it goes or to have a head start on it incase it does

I will be buying rods and pistons first so that way if it lets go and the block etc is salvageable I can throw them in and rock on

 

Here's what LME used in my 347, spec'd for 700-800rwhp.

Callies 6.125 H beam w/ARP 20000 7/16" bolts
CSC6125DS2A2AH

I think I also got the same pistons you're looking at.
Wiseco 3.903 x 1.3 x -11cc
K444X3903

 

Any of those rods will be fine to push the limits of the stock block. If you feel like you need it add arp 2000 rod bolts to them (some come with them) but I bet most will not have problems with the stock ARP bolts. Take the ones you get the best deal on, make sure they all check out ok and use them.

 

Yeah I am pricing everything out right now.... Just ball parking it... I am at around $5300 to R&R my engine.... Here is the list I came up with... its a bit more then I thought it would be since I was keeping my block/crank but man the little stuff adds up..

Block machining....... $500.00
head R&R ......... $500.00
Labor assy........ $500.00
Pistons/rings Wiseco, -11...... $760.00
Rods Callies Compstar w/arp2000...... $600.00
Head studs ARP........ $280.00
Main Studs ARP........ $235.00
oil pump Melling........ $160.00
Main bearings GM.......... $120.00
Rod bearings GM.......... $80.00
Spring set PRC double gold....... $300.00
Valves Stainless Lingenfelter........ $180.00
Cam A&A Stg 2......... $400.00
Timing chain Rollmaster......... $120.00
LS7 lifters........ $140.00
Head Gaskets GM LS9......... $100.00
Power Bond balancer........... $200.00
MISC gaskets/BS......... $100.00

$5,275.00
Thats about as cheap as I can get it while still putting good quality stuff in it... But I am open to suggestions...

Sorry to clog up your thread but I feel it displays the entire cost of a "forged piston/rod" build... It sounds cheap til you add it up...

Plus I'm gonna throw in a an RXT clutch, tick master and jet hot coat the headers, fuel system upgrade so....There is another $3k......Then however much I have to bribe Bret to put it all together for me....

 

After all is said and done believe me you will be 10,k lite in the pocket....With tune misc crap also.....

 

I don't mind at all this could end up being a helpful thread

Yea it certainly starts to add up. I already have a cam, clutch, and DTE trans brace so luckily I won't need to do that. I am doing headstuds soon having problems with pushing water so I have some of the expense out the way already.

 

Might as well make that a 383" engine while you are at it! Couple hundred bucks more to your tab.

 

Well looks like I am on the right track thats the pistons and rods I am thinking

 

Callies Compstars with ARP 2000's, this will be my sixth season on them,1000+ horsepower.

 

Hmmm thats a lot. I am thinking I have seen short blocks with callies rods and those same pistons for 4-5k assembled? Or maybe I am dreaming..

Then again, yours does include head work, cam, etc.

 

I am running scat rods and making 850-950rwhp.

I got a good deal on the shortblock. Fingers are crossed.

 

OH believe me....How I know about that....Take whatever you budget and double it and that is normally your starting point....LOL

I have a turbo street bike that after many different builds/kits on it, I have $40k in...... Then I have $50k+ in my green Vette and it is not even painted yet and patiently waiting for a $5k OD tranny upgrade....

I was just trying to price out the engine to see if it really is cheaper to rebuild my own locally or buy a crate job and throw it in and go.... You can get a forged 346 long block with upgraded pistons/studs/gaskets and ported 243s for $7200 from TSP.... So at this point, its cheaper to rebuild my own but....Its getting close.... A lot less headache just to buy one already done....

 

Are these H beam or I beams?

 

H rods...

 

^^^

In that case I don't think I would ever break a set of compstar H beam rods

 

Just like Robert said, $620 H-Beams!

 

i have these in my iron 370 build. and yes they are H beams. texas speed recommended these for my goal of 750whp as well

i also went with wiesco pistons with coated skirts -3.2cc reliefs