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Boost friendly short block build.

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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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Default Boost friendly short block build.

Ok well I was about to begin the reassembly process on my 01 Z06 that I was doing a cam, supercharger, alky and other supporting mods. Then I discovered that my cam bearings were worn to the point that I don't feel comfortable reassembling since I actually know. Engine was a little noisy prior to disassembly but I wrote it off to lifter noise, not so lucky I guess. I would have been better off not finding it.. But now that I know I figured I may as well do something productive with this information.

I know boost, short block and inexpensive should never be in the same sentence...but with that said I don't want to overbuild. I have an S trim A&A kit and just want to make a reliable 600-650RWHP which is doable with a stock short block. But I was thinking just a basic rebuild with rods, pistons and bearings. Any suggestions as to what parts I should use. I don't want to over build this car, but don't want to overlook anything simple that could reasonably be included either.
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LPDesRoche
Ok well I was about to begin the reassembly process on my 01 Z06 that I was doing a cam, supercharger, alky and other supporting mods. Then I discovered that my cam bearings were worn to the point that I don't feel comfortable reassembling since I actually know. Engine was a little noisy prior to disassembly but I wrote it off to lifter noise, not so lucky I guess. I would have been better off not finding it.. But now that I know I figured I may as well do something productive with this information.

I know boost, short block and inexpensive should never be in the same sentence...but with that said I don't want to overbuild. I have an S trim A&A kit and just want to make a reliable 600-650RWHP which is doable with a stock short block. But I was thinking just a basic rebuild with rods, pistons and bearings. Any suggestions as to what parts I should use. I don't want to over build this car, but don't want to overlook anything simple that could reasonably be included either.
like that reliable 650 rwhp. From the pistons and rods. also look at a good set of V/springs and good set of harden push rods. Also if you go much more than this in the car as hp better look also at a good set of valves thur the head.....Robert
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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If you're staying at the 650 mark and don't care for the flexibility to go higher while you're in there, then keep your stock crank and possibly rods, add ARP2000 rod bolts and a good set of forged pistons. If you get forged rods, Eagle, Scat, Callies are all good, with Callies being my preference. Wiseco or Diamond are my piston preference. Wiseco's include a good set of nitrided stainless upper and napier 2nd rings and dry-film coated skirts. A really good value.
I like LS4 oil pumps and good timing chain sets such as the Cloyes with a Z chain. Use ARP main studs and 8740 studs for your heads. I would check your valve springs if you've upgraded them already and consider upgrading your valves if you've got factory heads.
HTH
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 04:41 PM
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Well I already have a blower friendly cam and had changed the valve springs and seals to a dual spring setup. Bought all the gaskets, new lifters, pushrods the whole mess and then found the bearing wear. So just trying to make things right at this point. So are the stock rod bolts the weak link in the rod? I mean I really will never go above 650 with this setup for lots of reasons, so are they good for that with some ARP bolts installed in them? If I can save the $500+ on the rods I can spend it on other things. I also bought the LS2 timing chain set, should I get something better? Seems like lots of guys use it with decent results? I have a brand new set of GM MLS gaskets as well.

Leeland
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Old Apr 7, 2012 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LPDesRoche
Well I already have a blower friendly cam and had changed the valve springs and seals to a dual spring setup. Bought all the gaskets, new lifters, pushrods the whole mess and then found the bearing wear. So just trying to make things right at this point. So are the stock rod bolts the weak link in the rod? I mean I really will never go above 650 with this setup for lots of reasons, so are they good for that with some ARP bolts installed in them? If I can save the $500+ on the rods I can spend it on other things. I also bought the LS2 timing chain set, should I get something better? Seems like lots of guys use it with decent results? I have a brand new set of GM MLS gaskets as well.

Leeland
while apart u might as well put rods in it, 500 cheap insurance.
i run the ls2 chain, and all stock mls gaskets, in my lil 346
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