Help! installed new TR6 plugs engine now missing
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
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Help! installed new TR6 plugs engine now missing
I just installed new TR6 spark plugs and new plug wires to accomodate a nitrous kit but when i took it for a drive the engine is missing. What could be wrong? The new TR6 plugs are gapped to .035 (just as they came)
I didnt check the gap on the ac delco plugs that I took out, but they definitely have a noticeably bigger gap (.04 maybe?) could the difference in gap make it miss? Service engine soon light did not come on.
How do I diagnose a miss?
I didnt check the gap on the ac delco plugs that I took out, but they definitely have a noticeably bigger gap (.04 maybe?) could the difference in gap make it miss? Service engine soon light did not come on.
How do I diagnose a miss?
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,865
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From: WTB Kook 2" long tube 4 C5 TEXAS
If you can't find the problem take the plugs back and ask for a new set, these plugs should have warranty. Same thing happend to me once, turned out one of the plugs was cracked from what I suspect was during the shipping and handeling. Did you check the DIC?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,937
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From: My interests are mobile
If you went to TR6's and all of a sudden experienced misfires, gap can very well be an issue. When you experience blown out spark it typically occurs at heavier loads and worsens as boost increases or you approach peak torque. Basically as BMEP increases, the spark has a harder time jumping the gap. Point is, it can't hurt to simply gap down.
I've built custom forced induction systems for over a decade. On the platforms I built, unless running a CDI type of ignition system I always gapped down to .027 to start.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 370
From: Forney TX
Removing the plug wires is enough to make them fail. Even if you're careful and especially if you're not. That's why I meter each and every one of them before installing them back on any car that I work on.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,865
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From: WTB Kook 2" long tube 4 C5 TEXAS
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,960
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From: New Braunfels TX
Get a multimeter. Put meter on Ohms. Ohm out wire.(Put a lead on each side of the wire connectors.) Wires are less than one foot should be about 40 to 50 ohms
I use MSD
http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3302
I use MSD
http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3302
Last edited by JMBLOWNWS6; May 27, 2012 at 06:10 PM.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,673
Likes: 370
From: Forney TX
Get a multimeter. Put meter on Ohms. Ohm out wire.(Put a lead on each side of the wire connectors.) Wires are less than one foot should be about 40 to 50 ohms
I use MSD
http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3302
I use MSD
http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=3302
^^^Different manufacturers wires have different resistances, but you can establish a benchmark by looking at all of them. If you have 7 that read 50 ohms and one that reads 150, then that's your bad apple. I also flex the wire while holding the meter leads firmly against the contacts to make sure it's not a positional problem. In other words hold the wire straight and it reads 50 and start flexing it and it jumps to 200 or something like that.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
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Well I guess its fixed. I replaced all the plugs on the drivers side and the miss is gone. There were no noticeable cracks but apparently there was something wrong with one of them. Thanks for the help guys.
By the way the 100 shot of nitrous was disappointing. :S
By the way the 100 shot of nitrous was disappointing. :S
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 7,767
Likes: 19
From: East Texas
I time I changed spark plugs for a local police offer
and the car would not even start
we took the plugs back and got a different set and bam it started man was I worried 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,937
Likes: 348
From: My interests are mobile
A 100 shot isn't disappointing unless your expectations are unrealistic. I'd be checking the system, looking at bottle pressure, jetting, etc. A 100 shot in a 3k lb car is extremely effective.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
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I dont know what the pressure was, I havent hooked up my pressure gauge yet. But the bottle was just filled today and it was in the mid 80's outside today so I assumed the pressure would be high enough. Am I wrong to assume that? Fill me in guys I am a complete nitrous newbie I need all the advice I can get.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
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RC000E I dont think my expectations were unrealistic. a few years back I had an LT1 camaro that I put a 9 lb procharger on. Definitely noticed that power increase. I was expecting about the same with the nitrous on this C5.
Is it safe to disconnect the hose from the nozzle then engage the nitrous to verify its actually working? And if so can I do it with the engine off?
Is it safe to disconnect the hose from the nozzle then engage the nitrous to verify its actually working? And if so can I do it with the engine off?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 43
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nevermind I just took it for a drive and theres no doubt in my mind its working. WOW! Its scary fast, my heart is still pounding from the adrenaline. I must have forgotten to open the bottle in my initial test drive or something.
Im still curious though about the pressure gauge and bottle heater. Do I use the bottle heater to get the pressure up to 900psi? Is it safe to spray when the pressure is under 900? (I dont have a heater yet, and my pressure gauge isnt hooked up yet)
Im still curious though about the pressure gauge and bottle heater. Do I use the bottle heater to get the pressure up to 900psi? Is it safe to spray when the pressure is under 900? (I dont have a heater yet, and my pressure gauge isnt hooked up yet)
its running strong glade you got it working like it should 
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
Likes: 1,839
From: cookeville tennessee
Too large of a gap can absolutely make an engine miss...especially with forced induction. It's typically referred to as having the spark "blown out". With higher combustion pressures, the spark resists jumping the gap which is why typically you gap down plugs on FI setups.
If you went to TR6's and all of a sudden experienced misfires, gap can very well be an issue. When you experience blown out spark it typically occurs at heavier loads and worsens as boost increases or you approach peak torque. Basically as BMEP increases, the spark has a harder time jumping the gap. Point is, it can't hurt to simply gap down.
I've built custom forced induction systems for over a decade. On the platforms I built, unless running a CDI type of ignition system I always gapped down to .027 to start.
If you went to TR6's and all of a sudden experienced misfires, gap can very well be an issue. When you experience blown out spark it typically occurs at heavier loads and worsens as boost increases or you approach peak torque. Basically as BMEP increases, the spark has a harder time jumping the gap. Point is, it can't hurt to simply gap down.
I've built custom forced induction systems for over a decade. On the platforms I built, unless running a CDI type of ignition system I always gapped down to .027 to start.
Plus I am down to .025 on mine with boosted motor.Robert