igtabg1

Well after a lot of reading and lurking on the forms i finally took the plunge to install my Frankenstein nitrous kit that I've been piecing together for about a year. This is my first nitrous install and Iam not done with the install just thought i would start this thread so i can document my install and what not. So now for the good stuff... the kit is a brand X with a nano 4500 both i got from this forum some time ago, it will running through a nitrous outlet plate, Nitrous outlet switch panel, Brand x purge, fpss, msd window switch,Dual billet bottle holders, etc. etc. But during this install I do have some questions.
1. I have not removed the schrader valve and hooked up the attachment to the fuel solenoid will is affect driving at all or should i just go ahead and remove the schrader valve and hook up the lines?
well that's the only question i have for now. but any feed back would be greatly appreciated.
Now for the good stuff..
The noids

Another view

This is where i pulled the power from

The bottle bracket dont mind the sippy cup lol

The bottles



Charles

a/c man

remove the schrader so it can get the fuel it needs!!! that's what gives it fuel so you don't blow your motor to the moon

Rob Petyo

nice nano brackets, i have the same ones

is that a 4 outlet n20 valve?

igtabg1

Well even if I'm not done with installing the rest of it I can go ahead and pull the schrader valve ? I still have to install the window switch, purge, colder plugs, and the plate, that's why I was asking. I love your car man

I believe so sir , I took that picture befor I got the attachments to hook up the nano lines.

Rob Petyo

you need:

1. nano in
2. purge
3. N20 out
4. pressure gauge

Beer99C5

a/c man

Nice kit looks really good I know u can't wait to hit the nos. (-:

igtabg1

Hot wheels I have all that stuff ready to go and installed on the bottles, however I think we have the same blow down tube putting those fittings on those braided hose is a pita but it's a little easier since I got the khoul tool (ms?)
Beer I have that bottle opener however I got it used and it looks like the wires were just cut by the previous owner, are those connected by weather pack connecters or spade connectors ?
Thanks guys I'm going to get some more work in the car Friday night and I'll put up more pictures then.

Rob Petyo

My mechanic Tommy (Anger Management) did my braided hose, I had him change the angle on it for a better fit ... I didn't go with an auto bottle opener cause I'll only spray it at the track and with these brackets I can install the kit in probably about a minute - I run mid 10's N/A so spraying on the street would just be a waste of a good street tire, and besides that, I don't make it a practice to drive around with a colder plug. Good luck with your install and please put up some pic's

Beer99C5

Those are weather pack connectors I added. Quick easy connections and make hiding everything when the bottle is out a breeze.

igtabg1

Thats a good practice, Your car is where i'd like my car to be a fun mid 10's weekend car, but i know i probably have a long way to go with just having my bolt on's and no cam yet.

I've never worked with weather pack connecters, but i realyl like that idea of keeping everything clean, is there a special type of weather pack i need to look into?

igtabg1

also i forgot to post this picture of last time i was expermenting with installing the plate, its so close but still like half a inch off while i push the bridge down....

I've talked to vararam and tried moving the maf to the bottom and using the longer coupler but that wasnt much help either, i just figured i'd save the plate install for last.


Charles

igtabg1

Got a little more done to the car last night, nothing major just ran the wires to the WOT switch, moved the noids closer to the front, and pulled the center console now for some pics...
WOT switch

the noids moved up (much easier to connect the fuel line)

Where i will be pulling power for the switch panel

will this work for the fpss placement? im going to use the other side of the swivel mount for a fuel pressure gauge.


Now the only question i have it what fuse can i tap for the switch panel, i remember reading on here about:
fuse 11 hot when acc or on
fuse 7 hot permanent
fuse 22 switched hot
If i had to chose one i'd go with 11 or 22 but can any confirm or deny this?
Also can i run one power (lets say for my arming switch, then piggy back the power off that to my purge & bottle opener? or do i need three separate power supplies ?)
Well that's all for last night i'm going to get a lot more done tonight hopefully i can complete all the wiring and mount my nitrous gauge as well.
Thanks again guys
P.S. I know i need to clean my engine bay is dirty i plan on cleaning up everything

igtabg1

So I was able to get a little more work done last night I really wated to finish the switch panel wiring however looking at another members picture of how they Y off the power of the switch panel, it looks to be as if the spade connectors I have are not big enough to fit two wire through, however I was able to get the purge hooked up , run the wires for my remote bottle opener , and fix my hvac. So here are some pictures ... Enjoy
Got the purge hooked up


Ran the wires from the switch panel to the trunk for the remote bottle opener


Did some work on the hvac

Well that's all I have for now, also I went fuse number 22 for the power to switch panel, it's a spare and I figured if the radios guys use it why couldn't I? Also does any one know a good spot to put my ground wires near the radio ?

will2045

what are you going to do with the purge? im struggling to decide where to and how to route mine.

igtabg1

I figured I'd just run it to te cowl but I need to flare the tube to install it on the noid, I've never used a tubing bender so it will be fun. I plan on getting some more pictures up after I work on the car tonight.

igtabg1

TTt... Can Any one tell me what they use to ground there switch panels I was thinking about using g202 on the passenger side foot panel but that a pretty tight squeeze and I can't even get my gear wrenches in there... Any suggestions ? Thanks

Never mind i found out that i can use one of the bolts next to the ignition for a close ground... thanks guys ill get alot more pictures up tonight or tomorrow morning, i should be wrapping this car up and start driving it this weekend.

igtabg1

well guys i got everything but the plate and the window switch installed, I know i've been slacking but this week has been crazy. A couple questions i had. When splicing the rmp tac wire (i was going to use the aqua color one off the coil pack) can i use the add a splice from radio shack? I just wanted to see if any one had done this before.. so now for some more pictures.
Power to the switch panel


The ground i used for the switch panel..


The remote bottle opener i had laying around..


Thanks again guys.

Charles

igtabg1

Well iam nearly finished with my install. I just need to fill my nitrous bottle and NANO bottle (any suggestions around the garland/ rowlett area?) and install my window switch (im being a big baby about cutting into the RMP tach wire for fear i wont be able to drive my car in till i take it to the tuner, please some one put my mind to rest on this). So here are some pictures... Ill have my gauges up this weekend (nitrous & AEM AFR)
Wires ran to the back for my nitrous gauge




everything installed except the window switch


finally got enough room to make the nitrous plate fit without cutting a bunch of stuff up

And don't be worried i'm going to modify the radiator cover shroud so my power duct will fit.
Ohh one more thing, i ordered a longer purge line because the one they send you is too short for my setup, once i get everything hooked up im going to tuck and hide all the wires.