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Any cheap clean easy solution to relocating my optima yellow top battery to one of the side compartments in the trunk. I saw the LPE conversion but would rather not have to spend the 400 on it.
It's not hooked up in that pic. I put starter back on to spin motor over to check short block. It has just battery wire now for power. There is a alt wire from big lug on alt to big lug on starter. I also have cable from starter big lug to fuse box power lug to supply fuse box.
It's not hooked up in that pic. I put starter back on to spin motor over to check short block. It has just battery wire now for power. There is a alt wire from big lug on alt to big lug on starter. I also have cable from starter big lug to fuse box power lug to supply fuse box.
But if you're switching the power to the fuse box, the alternator will still feed the fuse box from the other direction.
Alternator has to go to battery or battery side of cut off to kill power. (separate cable)
When I turn off the switch I have zero power to alt and car. All connections are made at starter like factory. I did not see a reason to run a new alt wire to back of car. Is there? My alt feeds the fuel pumps for higher voltage also.
When I turn off the switch I have zero power to alt and car. All connections are made at starter like factory. I did not see a reason to run a new alt wire to back of car. Is there? My alt feeds the fuel pumps for higher voltage also.
Alternator makes power (when it turning) no need for battery power to fuse box.
Nothing will shut off if alternator is linked to fuse box, must go to battery or battery side of kill switch by itself so the kill switch can kill that power also.
Best way to feed big fuel pumps with rear battery,
Connect 8-10 ga to switched side of kill switch, proper sized fuse block, 50 or bigger relay near pump with trigger wire to ecu or switch panel up front
Shouldn't pass tech but I see battery disconnects wired like that all the time so they must be getting past tech somewhere. You can hit the kill switch if the car is running and it won't shut off. A lot of people test it the other way around - car off and it won't start but that isn't the same thing.
Shouldn't pass tech but I see battery disconnects wired like that all the time so they must be getting past tech somewhere. You can hit the kill switch if the car is running and it won't shut off. A lot of people test it the other way around - car off and it won't start but that isn't the same thing.
If tech doesn't check the cut-off switch when car is running, I guess it will pass.
Main goal of cut-off switch is to kill motor & fuel pump from outside the car in case of emergency.
If you wanted to cut corners, you could just kill the fuel pump or kill power to the pcm at the ignition switch, which would kill the motor & fuel pump.
Not the best way of doing it because of the remaining live wiring, which could ignite spilled fuel, etc.
I took it a step farther & installed an interior lever/cable that adapts to the rear cut-off switch so I can turn everything off from the driver's seat or rear of car. http://www.jerrybickel.com/batteries...t-1330013.html
Shouldn't pass tech but I see battery disconnects wired like that all the time so they must be getting past tech somewhere. You can hit the kill switch if the car is running and it won't shut off. A lot of people test it the other way around - car off and it won't start but that isn't the same thing.
Last time Tech checked mine, they told me to start the car and leave it running. The guy also had me hold my hands up so he was assured that I wasn't turning off the ignition or killing the car internally when he hit the kill switch.
I must look like some kind of deviant to be told that
But, I guess some people don't change the alternator wiring and try to sneak through tech by turning off the car when the guy hits the switch
I've never seen them turn the switch with the car off and then tell the driver to try to start the car. They're more concerned with killing it when it's running - From an intelligent / safety perspective