Blower charge pipe keeps blowing off
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
Blower charge pipe keeps blowing off
I recently put a smaller pulley on my F1R and now it keeps blowing the charge pipe off the blower at higher boost levels. I'm currently using just a normal hose clamp to connect the pipe to the blower. Has anybody else had this problem and what did you do to fix it? Should I use the better clamps that are used on the charge pipe between the intercooler and the throttle body?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
The rubber elbow that connects to the blower itself is what keeps popping off. The blower has grooves/ribs cast into it. I was going to try a t-clamp. I'm just curious if anyone else has had this issue in the 12-15psi range.
Last edited by Neil B; Dec 16, 2012 at 09:46 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 2
I hear your pain.I made a bunch of 9.70s passes that should have been 9.30s.O well..I'm in the middle of making a One peice aluminum pipe with only couplers being at charger and cooler with strapes bolted on to each end to be sure they don't blow off.
How much boost you making and what piping you using.
How much boost you making and what piping you using.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
Yeah, I think the couplers would stick on the volute better if there was just one rib at the end instead of the 2 or three they have on there. I would bet anything up to a dollar if you ground all but the lowest one off it would hold a million times better.
You can get a T-bolt clamp and make sure you get the coupler and clamp as high up on the volute as possible and tighten it good. There is no substitute for a good T-bolt clamp.
You can get a T-bolt clamp and make sure you get the coupler and clamp as high up on the volute as possible and tighten it good. There is no substitute for a good T-bolt clamp.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,877
Likes: 9
From: Ottawa Ontario
I have had this happen numerous times at 17 + pounds with the hose clamps cranked and even had a larger lip welded onto the pipe. I am gonna have a custom pipe made for the setup and try an differnt type of clamping system....T-clamps may work but I am not sure if they will hold 20+ pounds or not?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,993
Likes: 1,136
From: League City Tx
Neil I had this happen as well and I am using a T Clamp. The problem is the F1R has such a short neck on it that you cant even get a clamp above the rolled edges...
I have managed to get mine to stay on with the T Clamp getting it tight as hell but I can tell after tightening, its pushed the hose coupler down some... Still looks like it could pop off at any time. It has stayed on though...
I am thinking next time I pull the blower off, I am sending it to Dallas Performance to have a longer neck with more ribs welded on it. Then double clamp it.... THAT is the fix...
I have managed to get mine to stay on with the T Clamp getting it tight as hell but I can tell after tightening, its pushed the hose coupler down some... Still looks like it could pop off at any time. It has stayed on though...
I am thinking next time I pull the blower off, I am sending it to Dallas Performance to have a longer neck with more ribs welded on it. Then double clamp it.... THAT is the fix...
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
Neil I had this happen as well and I am using a T Clamp. The problem is the F1R has such a short neck on it that you cant even get a clamp above the rolled edges...
I am thinking next time I pull the blower off, I am sending it to Dallas Performance to have a longer neck with more ribs welded on it. Then double clamp it.... THAT is the fix...
I am thinking next time I pull the blower off, I am sending it to Dallas Performance to have a longer neck with more ribs welded on it. Then double clamp it.... THAT is the fix...
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 3
If the blower is polished take some sand paper and put a rough finish on the volute's outlet where the hose goes.
Use a 5/8" inch wide constant tension worm clamp. The smaller width clamp will fit tighter and further up against the volute.
Also-make sure your running a real BOV.
Use a 5/8" inch wide constant tension worm clamp. The smaller width clamp will fit tighter and further up against the volute.
Also-make sure your running a real BOV.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
If the blower is polished take some sand paper and put a rough finish on the volute's outlet where the hose goes.
Use a 5/8" inch wide constant tension worm clamp. The smaller width clamp will fit tighter and further up against the volute.
Also-make sure your running a real BOV.
Use a 5/8" inch wide constant tension worm clamp. The smaller width clamp will fit tighter and further up against the volute.
Also-make sure your running a real BOV.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,565
Likes: 111
Over lunch today, I picked up a 5/8" wide constant tension worm-drive clamp from NAPA (PN 705-1509). It was a $7 hose clamp. LOL. This clamp is MUCH beefier than the standard worm-drive clamp I had been using. Hopefully it will do the trick.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,295
Likes: 40
From: East Coast fl
I feel your pain.
If any guys would like to have all of your pipes redone,..as in,..no more heavy black rubber elbows that expand and contract...or if your tired of having heavy, rusting steal intercooler piping like procharger sends with there kits....let me know. I have access to aluminum tubing,..and silicone couplers. If forum members wanna send me there factory procharger pipes,...I would be happy to help convert there setup, to an all aluminum, silicone,(color choices) and T bolt clamps.
I am in the beginning phases of building a buddies once P1sc C6 to a fully built F1X car,..and I couldn't believe the shape of the pipes, and hoses, and the weight of the kit. I knew, that if I made my own piping, it would be a lot easier on the installer, and a lot easier onthe car. Anyways, if any friends on the forum want some help with this, I would try and help them out. You just gotta send me your pipes, so I can copy and replicate your hoses.
If your interested, PM me. Pics of my tube mods, and weight reduction, coming soon. Also. I am next to a powder coater.
holla
If any guys would like to have all of your pipes redone,..as in,..no more heavy black rubber elbows that expand and contract...or if your tired of having heavy, rusting steal intercooler piping like procharger sends with there kits....let me know. I have access to aluminum tubing,..and silicone couplers. If forum members wanna send me there factory procharger pipes,...I would be happy to help convert there setup, to an all aluminum, silicone,(color choices) and T bolt clamps.
I am in the beginning phases of building a buddies once P1sc C6 to a fully built F1X car,..and I couldn't believe the shape of the pipes, and hoses, and the weight of the kit. I knew, that if I made my own piping, it would be a lot easier on the installer, and a lot easier onthe car. Anyways, if any friends on the forum want some help with this, I would try and help them out. You just gotta send me your pipes, so I can copy and replicate your hoses.
If your interested, PM me. Pics of my tube mods, and weight reduction, coming soon. Also. I am next to a powder coater.
holla
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 793
Likes: 3
From: Scotland UK
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,295
Likes: 40
From: East Coast fl
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,295
Likes: 40
From: East Coast fl
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,844
Likes: 144
From: Northern Ireland
IMO preparation is more important than clamp type.
Ensure all pipework is 100% spotless, both alloy and silicone coupler.. No oil, grease, spray, silicone, anything ( except perhaps hairspray as suggested ). All pipe ends must have a decent bead, whether formed or bumps welded on.
And use good quality silicone hose and good stainless clamps.
Thin banded T-Bolt clamps are very good, but if using alloy pipework, you run a risk of crushing the pipework if you go nuts tightening them.
Constant Torque type clamps or Murray clamps are very good, and a worm drive style.
Only when Ive ignored the above have I had issues with pipes blowing off. And that hasnt happened for a few years now.
Ensure all pipework is 100% spotless, both alloy and silicone coupler.. No oil, grease, spray, silicone, anything ( except perhaps hairspray as suggested ). All pipe ends must have a decent bead, whether formed or bumps welded on.
And use good quality silicone hose and good stainless clamps.
Thin banded T-Bolt clamps are very good, but if using alloy pipework, you run a risk of crushing the pipework if you go nuts tightening them.
Constant Torque type clamps or Murray clamps are very good, and a worm drive style.
Only when Ive ignored the above have I had issues with pipes blowing off. And that hasnt happened for a few years now.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,295
Likes: 40
From: East Coast fl
I wouldn't change any piping(from smaller to larger), unless you were changing the cooler as well. Otherwise, you'd just be bottlenecking anyways. recently talked to a board member who changed his A2A off his procharger..picked up about a thousand cfm. Thats huge.