For all the people who think you need 6 bolt blocks for big boost-step in!
04-02-2013, 10:18 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
The majority of the record breaking dyno numbers posted on forums have more than mean base timing. Wohoo for a pretty graph. Same reason everybody said you couldn't go past 550, then 600, then whatever they say these days on a stock bottom end. I never pushed any water on a stock ls6 with 19psi at redline.
23psi on this TT setup with 4 bolt AFR 225's and whatever stock size ARP's are. Again, not a drop of water pushed, and I have pushed it past the mph it does in the 1/4.
Arun, you do realize an eboost2 will let you have a boost curve just like a centri, right? That's what mine does with everything set to zero. Boost creeps like crazy until I shift.
23psi on this TT setup with 4 bolt AFR 225's and whatever stock size ARP's are. Again, not a drop of water pushed, and I have pushed it past the mph it does in the 1/4.
Arun, you do realize an eboost2 will let you have a boost curve just like a centri, right? That's what mine does with everything set to zero. Boost creeps like crazy until I shift.
04-02-2013, 10:32 AM
#22
Drifting
Andy is local to me. He just built it to see what it could do and run in the local 10.5/radial class. It runs alky so not much nock going to happen with that fuel. I think the combo of small bores and iron block will help it seal better than a aluminum 5.7+ bore engine. Add some aftermarket thick deck heads and larger head studs and I'm sure you can take 4 bolt heads pretty damn far into boost without orings, etc.
04-02-2013, 10:44 AM
#23
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
No problem. I ditched the 60's after the first few times they hit 110% IDC with around 650 rwhp. My biggest limitation currently is the 255 in-tank and BAP. I've already bought an external magnafuel pump and ECS fuel hat. I just need to finish buying the rest of the components.
A stock engine needs to err on the side of a little too much fuel capacity and a little less timing if you are running it on 93 octane and methanol injection. I think what is mentioned regarding timing advance in the link I posted is very true. I really believe the cause of many stock LS failures can be related to being greedy with timing and not having enough fuel.
A stock engine needs to err on the side of a little too much fuel capacity and a little less timing if you are running it on 93 octane and methanol injection. I think what is mentioned regarding timing advance in the link I posted is very true. I really believe the cause of many stock LS failures can be related to being greedy with timing and not having enough fuel.
Something like this:
04-02-2013, 10:45 AM
#24
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
The majority of the record breaking dyno numbers posted on forums have more than mean base timing. Wohoo for a pretty graph. Same reason everybody said you couldn't go past 550, then 600, then whatever they say these days on a stock bottom end. I never pushed any water on a stock ls6 with 19psi at redline.
23psi on this TT setup with 4 bolt AFR 225's and whatever stock size ARP's are. Again, not a drop of water pushed, and I have pushed it past the mph it does in the 1/4.
Arun, you do realize an eboost2 will let you have a boost curve just like a centri, right? That's what mine does with everything set to zero. Boost creeps like crazy until I shift.
23psi on this TT setup with 4 bolt AFR 225's and whatever stock size ARP's are. Again, not a drop of water pushed, and I have pushed it past the mph it does in the 1/4.
Arun, you do realize an eboost2 will let you have a boost curve just like a centri, right? That's what mine does with everything set to zero. Boost creeps like crazy until I shift.
I honestly tried to go over to yoour side-but I think Rob didn't want me switch.
04-02-2013, 12:53 PM
#25
Safety Car
Yes I'm on 60's and could use more. We pushed it on the dyno but should have been more careful at the track. I got greedy cause I knew I was gonna get kicked.
Here's a nice setup 427 lsx at about 20psi, TH400 making 1000rwhp thru unlocked converter. I would take this anyday over a tiny 5.3L at 30psi.
04-02-2013, 06:26 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
Because 5.3 motors are so cheap it really doesnt matter ?
If a replacement motor only costs a few hundred $$$...really, why wouldnt you try ?
Plus a smaller bore engine with thicker bores and more meat between cylinders is going to be a better base for big boost.
If a replacement motor only costs a few hundred $$$...really, why wouldnt you try ?
Plus a smaller bore engine with thicker bores and more meat between cylinders is going to be a better base for big boost.
04-02-2013, 08:42 PM
#27
Safety Car
04-02-2013, 09:40 PM
#28
Melting Slicks
04-02-2013, 10:18 PM
#30
Team Owner
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04-03-2013, 04:39 AM
#31
Melting Slicks
In this instance, an approx $500 short motor did the job. It's really hard to argue with that. If it breaks it breaks. Just get another.
Are they suggesting everyone does the same ? nope. But even the best most expensive motor can fail, especially when it comes to actual tuning
04-03-2013, 10:42 AM
#33
Drifting
I saw yesterday morning on YB. That is crazy. We have a stock 4.8 long block on the stand right now that we are going to test the limits on. Old LS6 cam laying around the shop, old pull off DBL springs, used cover gaskets and all. Heck I even have some good used oil I saved for it. F2 and a 4.8. May need a diaper but it should be fun trying. When it blows we are out very little.
04-03-2013, 04:34 PM
#34
Melting Slicks
In a 1/4 mile you are probably fine for a while. Its the long duration of pressures seen in 1/2 Mile - 1 mile events where its seems to happen (pushing water) more comonly with big boost.
Last edited by MotleyDrew; 04-03-2013 at 04:38 PM.
04-03-2013, 05:04 PM
#35
Burning Brakes
One mile event, around 25 seconds at WOT. Similar than five or even more subsequent WOT runs. That would be nice. But isn't that what most of the hardcore tuners do anyway to make sure engine copes all the abuse..
04-03-2013, 06:16 PM
#36
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
04-03-2013, 07:22 PM
#37
Melting Slicks
04-03-2013, 09:14 PM
#38
Supporting Vendor
Thread Starter
Tell me how many cars leave the dyno only to leave to run the 1/4 mile? Who knows what they run for how long they run?
Tune it safe-with a safety net and let it eat.
Some cars leave the dyno room floor to never see a 1/4 mile, some go on road coarses, some go do burnouts up and down the street-some get fired up and are pegged to redline without ever getting hot.
Ragged edge is for X275 cars.
04-03-2013, 09:19 PM
#39
Melting Slicks
Why would you run on the "ragged edge"?
Tell me how many cars leave the dyno only to leave to run the 1/4 mile? Who knows what they run for how long they run?
Tune it safe-with a safety net and let it eat.
Some cars leave the dyno room floor to never see a 1/4 mile, some go on road coarses, some go do burnouts up and down the street-some get fired up and are pegged to redline without ever getting hot.
Ragged edge is for X275 cars.
Tell me how many cars leave the dyno only to leave to run the 1/4 mile? Who knows what they run for how long they run?
Tune it safe-with a safety net and let it eat.
Some cars leave the dyno room floor to never see a 1/4 mile, some go on road coarses, some go do burnouts up and down the street-some get fired up and are pegged to redline without ever getting hot.
Ragged edge is for X275 cars.
04-03-2013, 09:28 PM
#40
Melting Slicks
I think what arun is saying is that it doesn't matter if you run 1/4 mile or full mile. If its going to push water it will do it no matter what at full boost. But yes running a full mile has way more of a chance of damaging the motor itself than running short burst or 1/4 mile