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Balancer Bolt Torque

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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 01:08 PM
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Default Balancer Bolt Torque

Hi,

When tightening the bolt after pinning the crank and balancer, what is the best way to hit the required torque? If I try to torque by hand, it just spins. I used a 300ft/lb impact gun and tightened it down until it would not move any more plus an addition 5 seconds...wondering if I got it tight enough...anyone have thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!

Last edited by topdown01; Apr 21, 2013 at 01:11 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 01:30 PM
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That might work. Just keep an eye on it during the first few hours of operation, making sure the belts stay aligned. Especially pay attention to the A/C belt.

I got the flywheel holding tool. Sooo handy! Search ebay for J-42386-A

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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Stewart
That might work. Just keep an eye on it during the first few hours of operation, making sure the belts stay aligned. Especially pay attention to the A/C belt.

I got the flywheel holding tool. Sooo handy! Search ebay for J-42386-A

Thanks buddy, I'll keep an eye on it!

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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 11:59 PM
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Pull the inspection plate and have a friend hold the flywheel then torque the **** out of the sumbitch
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 10:34 AM
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Super****ingTightWithLocTite is the spec IIRC
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by topdown01
Hi,

When tightening the bolt after pinning the crank and balancer, what is the best way to hit the required torque? If I try to torque by hand, it just spins. I used a 300ft/lb impact gun and tightened it down until it would not move any more plus an addition 5 seconds...wondering if I got it tight enough...anyone have thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks!
Well if you used an ARP bolt and pinned the crank your golden, actually even less torque is required when pinning.
The real reason the balancer/bolt comes loose is because of slight rotational movement between the crank and the balancer, pinning stops this.
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 04:06 PM
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That actually makes me feel a lot better I used loctite too...

Thank you so much!!!!
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by user_name
Super****ingTightWithLocTite is the spec IIRC
Damn straight, that and omfg if this wrench slips I'm goin to the hospital tight!
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I have a 6-speed car,Just put it in 6 gear,took a long bar and went for it, its been fine!
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 07:13 AM
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should/would/maybe are the results your going to get from an impact that puts out 300ft/lbs

I don't like to walk away from something when it could be done better
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 01:04 PM
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Here's my experience. I put a crank bolt new factory bolt in my first vette after a head and cam swap. used a breaker bar and went as tight as I could get it. Well as it would turn out I should have followed the manufacturers specs. The damn crank pulley walked off the front of the crank shaft right into the steering rack at highway speeds. Fortunately I didn't damage anything just cosmetic damage to the rack.

My suggestion do it right just as GM recommends then you can be certain.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MVP'S ZO6
Here's my experience. I put a crank bolt new factory bolt in my first vette after a head and cam swap. used a breaker bar and went as tight as I could get it. Well as it would turn out I should have followed the manufacturers specs. The damn crank pulley walked off the front of the crank shaft right into the steering rack at highway speeds. Fortunately I didn't damage anything just cosmetic damage to the rack.

My suggestion do it right just as GM recommends then you can be certain.
The factory bolt is torque to yield though.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by user_name
The factory bolt is torque to yield though.
Yep.

First time I didn't hit the bolts yield point. Second time I did.
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