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I had the ACT twin in my car from A&A, installed by them too. It wasn't hard to drive or anything, just couldn't hold the power I am making now. Also didn't give quite as much "feel" off the line compared to the Mantic Twin. Plus I am no where near maxing the Mantic out now.
I wouldn't use the Mcleod RST given both the power and how you use the car. I would use the RXT if you're using Mcleod. We've had great luck with them.
We've also had stellar luck with the Centerforce DYAD.
What was the issue with the ACT you drove ? and which model ?
The twin organic in mine is super smooth, and pedal takes a little push. No harder than the ExoSkel I had before though. I've the T2 model, so not the heaviest or lightest cover
I don't know what model it was but it's in Robert 2000's car. Between the clutch being way to stiff and having that crazy short shifter it makes it unpleasant for me atleast. If I want to work out my legs i'll go to the gym.
He doesn't really have another aftermarket clutch to compare it to so next time he's around i'll let him drive my car so he can see what i'm talking about.
Anything bad to say about Mantic or DYAD? Anyone have input on "pedal feel" or "streetability" with them? (also opinions on driveline braces & slave cylinders) Thanks for all the help & info!!!!!!!!
Anything bad to say about Mantic or DYAD? Anyone have input on "pedal feel" or "streetability" with them? (also opinions on driveline braces & slave cylinders) Thanks for all the help & info!!!!!!!!
Nothing bad that I know of those are the 2 I am considering for my next clutch.
Mantic Twin is a mouse whisker over stock pedal effort. Quiet as stock and not grab asstic. It works well for track abuse. It's a damn nice clutch. I've heard great things about the DYAD too.
Lots of good info here. Most everyone will have their preference and most all are working for them which means good choices for you! Gotta love the forum. I do agree on the RXT over RST. It all depends on what power you realistically want to make. The TQ rating is more import than HP rating as well. The brace and Trans mount will help. Drivetrain hop will kill things quick if it happens. Spending the extra $500 or what not is worth a little piece of mind from cracking the Trans/diff case or both...not guaranteed of course but much better results with than without. C6z drivetrain is ideal but costly.
Do the RXT or DYAD require shims? The Mantic doesn't does it? Which tranny brace & or mount? (Also use the 04z slave or ? ? or aftermarket like ram or other?) Thanks again for all the help & info!!!!!!!!
Do the RXT or DYAD require shims? The Mantic doesn't does it? Which tranny brace & or mount? (Also use the 04z slave or ? ? or aftermarket like ram or other?) Thanks again for all the help & info!!!!!!!!
Bret said it best about the Mantic, just a hair heavier than stock, with a very linear pedal feel. I'm one picky SOB and have nothing negative to say about it at all. I like it better than the stock clutch.
While I was in there I did, poly couplers from DSS and upgraded the rear with C6Z parts.
DTE or ECS brace with Hinson trans mount is what I run. Stock 04 Ls6 slave is fine and you should not need a shim. The DSS couplers are a good idea if you have some hard miles on yours and a remote bleeder is a must.
I was given a new 4 year old SPEC twin and matching flywheel correct for my 98 C5. Are these still being invited to the dance for a stock bottom FI street car? Hate not to use it.
I was given a new 4 year old SPEC twin and matching flywheel correct for my 98 C5. Are these still being invited to the dance for a stock bottom FI street car? Hate not to use it.
The only time I've operated that clutch was in a customers car and it was one hell of a leg press.