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Strip bolt on S/C bracket

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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 12:54 AM
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Default Strip bolt on S/C bracket

I have an A&A kit, I took the oil catch can off today and the bolt that runs through it. When putting back together I guess I over torqued this one bolt. Any suggestions, do I have to buy a complete new bracket? I've attached a photo to better explain. Also I didn't strip the actual bolt, it stripped a metal shaving from inside the bracket, I've also attached photo of

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the metal shaving that came out of it


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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:09 AM
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Helicoil it and get back on the road. Easy day.

25-30 ftlbs or some german torque (goodntight) is all that's needed on those bolts
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 05:38 AM
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can you use a longer bolt and hit some deeper threads or longer bolt with a nut on it? if that cant be done just put a helicoil in it!
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:26 AM
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doesnt that bolt goes into the supercharger itself NOT the bracket?

Last edited by StealthFRC; Nov 8, 2013 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 10:28 AM
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There's only two ways to fix this correctly. Retap the factory hole or put a Helicoil in it. A Helicoil when done correctly will be stronger than any retapped threads or single set of threads.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by StealthFRC
doesnt that bolt goes into the supercharger itself NOT the bracket?
yes after taking a better look it does dead end into the head unit helicoil or time sert seal insert will be stronger than aluminum
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 03:18 PM
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Yes sorry I described it wrong, the bracket nor the bolt is stripped, the unit itself is. Going have to give this helicoil a try. Thanks
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 04:01 PM
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Just be real careful id hate to see you drill a hole right through your blower. Fortunately, it's aluminum and don't require a bunch of pressure on the drill to clean up the hole.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 04:51 PM
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Timesert is the best option. Regardless, you'll need to start tapping with a standard tap and then use a blind tap to thread all the way to the bottom of the hole if you're going into the head unit, but that bolt isn't one that goes into the head unit. It goes into the bracket. The only 2 bolts that go into the head unit from the back bracket are the top 2.

Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06; Nov 8, 2013 at 04:53 PM.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 07:15 PM
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you can get a automotive machine shop to do it right for $15-$25 a lot safer bet
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by a/c man
you can get a automotive machine shop to do it right for $15-$25 a lot safer bet
He shouldn't need it unless the problem isn't the one his arrow is pointing to. That one goes into the bracket.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
He shouldn't need it unless the problem isn't the one his arrow is pointing to. That one goes into the bracket.
Late night last night I assumed it went to the unit, you're right it doesn't go to the unit after looking at it again this afternoon. I got a longer bolt and problem fixed.

Thanks!
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 06:37 AM
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Buy a helicoil kit. They're cheap, easy to use and more importantly handy to have in the garage in case of future needs
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:39 PM
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I went to a so called real performance shop in upstate ny a few years ago and they did a fine job of cross threading and totally messing up the blower bracket and by the way the rest of my car....I helicoiled everything and it's totally fine....
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by c5mtl
I went to a so called real performance shop in upstate ny a few years ago and they did a fine job of cross threading and totally messing up the blower bracket and by the way the rest of my car....I helicoiled everything and it's totally fine....
They work when I installed my AFR heads I put coils in all the ex. bolt holes so they would not pull threads good insurance I really think aluminum parts should come with inserts for the threads
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