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Man not another one of these. All you get are comments from people who don't tune their own cars or don't know what to factor in, like the requested info above. People pop motors in these cars like it's 1985, and they're all running 250 shots on their carburated 2 bolt 350 with no WOT or window switch.
Let the guy tuning the cars who go years without breaking while being raced set the timing. /thread
Man not another one of these. All you get are comments from people who don't tune their own cars or don't know what to factor in, like the requested info above. People pop motors in these cars like it's 1985, and they're all running 250 shots on their carburated 2 bolt 350 with no WOT or window switch.
Let the guy tuning the cars who go years without breaking while being raced set the timing. /thread
agreed but being on here for a while if I get a few of teh regulars on here that seem to know their **** Ill be happy.
agreed but being on here for a while if I get a few of teh regulars on here that seem to know their **** Ill be happy.
Hate to tell you, but a good chunk of those that you think know their **** are more full of ****. Most the "tuners" in the lsx world have been responsible for popping a good number of motors. This forum is a business, and not everything gets posted. I guess what I'm trying to say is that you could learn much more about keeping an engine together than on here. If you are unsure of the safety of your tune you'd be far better off to learn how to read plugs and make some pulls, then check.
Look at the compression thread on here. Static compression is not even half of what needs to be considered on an FI car. Just 1 of many, so why does it matter who has the highest? Same with timing.
Hate to tell you, but a good chunk of those that you think know their **** are more full of ****. Most the "tuners" in the lsx world have been responsible for popping a good number of motors. This forum is a business, and not everything gets posted. I guess what I'm trying to say is that you could learn much more about keeping an engine together than on here. If you are unsure of the safety of your tune you'd be far better off to learn how to read plugs and make some pulls, then check.
Look at the compression thread on here. Static compression is not even half of what needs to be considered on an FI car. Just 1 of many, so why does it matter who has the highest? Same with timing.
Now you know your about to get your vette card pulled for tellin the truth on here!!! haha
I take everything w a grain of salt. So far my junk has survived 2 yrs/6500 miles. I do know how to check plugs and when to check them during a run. I have hp tuners and monitor my stuff pretty close but Im a novice w this software and want to start tuning myself.
alum or cast iron Aluminum LS3
CI 376CI
E85, pump, meth? Pump with Dual 100% Meth nozzles
turbo, centi or PD? YSI
huffer psi? 20PSI with A&A dongle/24 without
Also I am running 17Deg and the motor is 9.4 Compression with LS3 heads makes 880 with the dongle and 978Rwhp without.
alum or cast iron Aluminum LS3
CI 376CI
E85, pump, meth? Pump with Dual 100% Meth nozzles
turbo, centi or PD? YSI
huffer psi? 20PSI with A&A dongle/24 without
Also I am running 17Deg and the motor is 9.4 Compression with LS3 heads makes 880 with the dongle and 978Rwhp without.
alum or cast iron Aluminum LS3
CI 376CI
E85, pump, meth? Pump with Dual 100% Meth nozzles
turbo, centi or PD? YSI
huffer psi? 20PSI with A&A dongle/24 without
Also I am running 17Deg and the motor is 9.4 Compression with LS3 heads makes 880 with the dongle and 978Rwhp without.
I take everything w a grain of salt. So far my junk has survived 2 yrs/6500 miles. I do know how to check plugs and when to check them during a run. I have hp tuners and monitor my stuff pretty close but Im a novice w this software and want to start tuning myself.
best advise you can ever get on tuning yourself: change one thing at at time and only in small amounts... if you do that, your never blow a motor as long as you review the logs and know when to say enoguh is enoguh.
People get greedy with timing which is where most end up dying. Play it safe on timing and leave those extra 20hp on the table or make it up with a tiny bit more boost...
Look up spark hook test. The great, mad scientist Dr. Phil Hoefler did this at various AFR's.
What you need to understand is optimum spark advance changes with IAT, load, ECT, fuel octane, boost, RPM, combustion chamber shape, and AFR. There's more I'm not thinking of I'm sure.
Let's say you get two of the exact same motors and hand them to two different tuners and they are both asked to put them on the same dyno and tune 4th gear from 3000-6500RPM, both at the same boost levels, same fuel, same fuel pressure, same cooling systems and intercoolers. They both tune their respective cars and add spark until it makes no more torque, yet one achieved it at 22 degrees timing and the other at 17 degrees timing. How can this happen?
best advise you can ever get on tuning yourself: change one thing at at time and only in small amounts... if you do that, your never blow a motor as long as you review the logs and know when to say enoguh is enoguh.
Originally Posted by Apocolipse
People get greedy with timing which is where most end up dying. Play it safe on timing and leave those extra 20hp on the table or make it up with a tiny bit more boost...
I personally run conservative timing while keeping it rich. For a daily driven street car I don't need every last hp. I'd rather enjoy it for a long time.
I run 14 degrees at the torque peak at 12psi. I keep the AFR in the low 11s.
TC76 custom top mount
Stock bottom/heads LS6
228R on a 112
93 pump gas(haven't added meth yet)
I ran similar timing on my P1SC/D1SC setups on my last C5 and never broke anything in front of the flywheel. Behind it was another matter of course
Look up spark hook test. The great, mad scientist Dr. Phil Hoefler did this at various AFR's.
What you need to understand is optimum spark advance changes with IAT, load, ECT, fuel octane, boost, RPM, combustion chamber shape, and AFR. There's more I'm not thinking of I'm sure.
Let's say you get two of the exact same motors and hand them to two different tuners and they are both asked to put them on the same dyno and tune 4th gear from 3000-6500RPM, both at the same boost levels, same fuel, same fuel pressure, same cooling systems and intercoolers. They both tune their respective cars and add spark until it makes no more torque, yet one achieved it at 22 degrees timing and the other at 17 degrees timing. How can this happen?
Easy.... in short no two ignition events are the same due to what you posted and more.
that's why the best way to find out how much spark to give is to put it in the rollers and see what it likes. Go as high as it likes it then bsck it diwn a couple degrees.
Final numbers: enough to burn the tires (345-35-18) at 70 mph (A4)
I was thinking I was bad at 93 oct and meth added then my 93 with no eth in the gas. But 100 octane all the time. I do add torco also ever other tank. Robert
Last edited by robert miller; Nov 26, 2013 at 11:32 AM.
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