Just when I had everything worked out.....a price increase throws a wrench in it.

I am going to build a forged shortblock for my boosted car to make it handle around 13-14lbs boost and make somewhere in the neighborhood of 800rwhp.This is purely a weekend cruise / short trip car that will rarely see the track (maybe just to tune initially) I spend 98% of my time cruising and just run through a couple of gears to scare my friends, or dispose of some SS's or GT500s.
I had found a ls1 with all the right goodies for a very good price (best I could find) and was going that route to keep things close to the same, and not buy the $300 conversion kit. Now I find out he can only get Gen IV 5.3s and bore them, so I have to spend the $300 more for the conversion kit. So my choices are;
Stay with the LS1 + $300
Go with a LS2 for $1100 more + #300
Go with 383 for $500 more + $300
It would seem dumb to not go with the larger engine for $500 more, but this build is getting out of hand I just want a block to hold together, even with the power I have now.
Any thoughts?

 

5.3 goes to a 3.905.. that is the best setup...and what i run.. a bigger engine is not any better then a stock stroke for FI.. no matter what the band wagon guys say.. esp for a driver.. also, a older 5.3 is better so you don't have to relocate the knock sensors and map

 

Thanks Josh

The 5.3 he has is a Gen IV, so I have to buy(read;waste money) the conversion kit for $300 more.
The builder says he cant get new LS1s or 5.3 Gen III blocks anymore.
I have planned all along to go with an LS1. I just want it to hold up while I play with it, not make it fast enough to earn money racing it
I just wondered, since I have to by the conversion either way, if I should spend the $500 for some extra cubes and the torque (don't need it in boost) for effortless cruising
I wish I could find someone to just build mine without trying to put his kids through college with it.

 

I know there are guys who make big power on the aluminum blocks. It seems most logical to do what you can afford to do. Im going to probably catch heat for this but I don't care. In my opinion on a street car in order to make big power and have the best combination in reliability vs power it makes sense to start with an iron block. They're cheap, strong and you don't have to worry about sleeves. Just because something makes power on a dyno once or twice, don't make it reliable. Most track guys don't care about longevity as much as a hybrid street strip guy would. I mean after all, the real serious guys go through their engine every season. If aluminum is a must than there are the factory and aftermarket race blocks but your going to pay!!

All in all a nice forged aluminum or iron factory short block should be somewhere in the price range of 3,700 - 4,500 bucks.

 

But again he said it was only a week end very little hard running it. Very little are no track time at all. But again what you are saying here is true on the IRON block..Robert

 

Yep don't get me wrong I know a guy can buy a C5R aluminum factory race block or an RHS aftermarket aluminum race block but they put a nice dent in the bank account.

I just think when guys are trying to push these things hard on a budget, the iron block makes the most sense.

 

LS1/LS6 and stock crank has worked good for me to 900rwhp. All I want for push for more is a forged crank.

 

I think you are confused on the conversion thing. Its the crank that dictates that, not the block. As long as you use a 24 tooth reluctor crank you are all set. And they are cheap and easy to come by.

On the aluminum vs Iron. I just made this choice in the last two weeks myself. I ended up going Iron. Firstly, its cheaper. If you are trying to do this on a budget then its money you can save. Secondly, it is WAY stronger with much thicker cylinder walls. When I killed my ls6 engine I put a rod through the cylinder wall(dont ask). I was shocked at just how thin it really is:


I decided that if I'm going to the trouble of building and swapping an engine, I'm going to do it ONCE. I dont want something inside my new engine to be the weakest link.

I was initially concerned with weight, but discovered its only about 75-90lbs difference. Unless you are an uber competetive autocrosser that laps with .001 second consistency you probably wont even notice.


One last thing to consider which I discovered. It may be cheaper and far less frustration to just buy a built shortblock from a reputable builder. Once I priced out the cost of the block and forged parts and then called machine shops to price out all the machine work I really wasnt far from the cost of buying one already built. Not only that, but quite honestly the machine shops near me dont fill me with a ton of confidence. I called to ask about having a clutch balanced and they had never heard of such a thing I dont want to drop 5k on an engine build and have a vibration or spin a bearing because something wasnt machined/clearanced properly.

 

When I began shopping and pricing this stuff this time last year, the best deals where AES iron shortblock , I believe around 3800, and a lingenfelter Ls-1 shortblock for 3050. I think the AES was a stroker, and the other is stock stroke, both 24x reluctor. I decided on a Billy Briggs 402, but to each his own , the Ls2 are the strongest of the factory blocks , and a seasoned one is best ..........

 

This is a rock solid foundation and I will go this route when my bottom end gives out! I live 45 minutes from this shop and have seen their work first hand! And for $4300 for a solid bottom, you can't go wrong! Their customer service is outstanding as 4 friends have this motor and is built well, all of them are over 800hp at the wheels Hope this may help you OP!

http://aesracing.net/product_info_390LS1.htm

 

Thanks for all of the great replys guys; I am keeping all of my options open.
The cost of the iron block (and strength) is very appealing. I know its crazy, but I just like the idea of a aluminum (light) block in a light car. I never autocross the car, but LOVE to take it to the mountains for spirited driving

The builder was telling me I needed the front cover, cam sensor, valley plate and several other things to go with a gen IV block. That $300 doesnt seem like much, but it just seems like such a waste of money that could go somewhere else (and there's plenty of that.)

Since I don't take the car to the strip, to be honest, I actually have about all of the power I can handle now on the street, but I cant enjoy it like I should knowing it might blow at a VERY inappropriate time (98 rod bolts) If I am going to spend $4000+ on a forged bottom and asserories, I HAVE to make a little more hp

Would love to find a LS1engine, made form a gen III 5.3 block, with wiseco pistons, forged rods and arp2000 bolts, set up right, in a decent price range. That should handle all I plan to make