So I've gone through a ridiculous amount of work just to get control of boost with my TTIx kit. See previous threads. Finally I've got a handle on that, and I've got a 12psi base to work with. I expect the eboost2 will let me got to 24psi+ like this.

I needed something that would let me adjust for conditions and types of racing. At 12psi I should make about 750rwhp, which on a 28" tire I think will hook every time from a 60. I'll be racing at TI in April. The eboost2 has a variety of options that let you ramp in boost in different ways. You have to be creative. I chose their SSF setting. http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...nstall-104.pdf

Wastegates is 12psi, which is boost group 1. Boost group 2 will be target boost. Say 24psi. Once kicked off it will gradually ramp that boost in over however many tenths of a second I tell it to. So I brake boost, hit, hook, and then the boost comes in with tires planted quickly.

I decided I needed a way to do this hands free. Initially I was going to have to press a button at the hit. What I came up with was to wire the "reset" wire to the brake switch. The car returns to wastegates every time I hit the brakes. You can imagine how this would work well for roll racing or strip.

I ordered a Zex TPS switch since micro switches in my experience are sometimes not reliable. Well it threw some problems at me. The car went into reduced power mode when idling after the install. I did some reading, but I was unsure on the fix. I contacted our resident expert on here, BlownBlueZ06. He suggested putting a diode on the TPS wire to prevent the box from sending voltage back up to the TPS sensor. It worked!

Here's a little video to put it in perspective.


I'll also be using this at the strip next month. The theory is that I'm only chasing maybe a high 1.5x 60 ft. I don't need 1000rwhp to do that, and it will increase probability of breaking parts. This should make it easier. The car also doesn't like to be pedal. It lags pretty bad, so I need to get the tires planted before going all out.

It's no Halltech, Motec, or ProEfi setup, but I'm hoping for some nice results with this new capability.

 

Very . Can't wait to see the results.

 

Thats a nice feature over the EBoost Street. I wish I would've bought the 2 instead. But none the less very smooth transition.

 

let me know how this works out. I have the EB2 as well and could use a boost solution.

 

Very cool, Joe. I always like reading stuff like this where a solution was well thought out and followed through to a success. Looking forward to seeing what it does at the rental in a month!

I should have done eb2, but just did the eboost street. Dont' care enough spend the coin to switch it right now. So, i'll be triggering the gate setpoint by trigger

Read your manual again man, green wire is the set point trigger.. can run a switch or whatever suits you. Just run the switch to ground and you can toggle between set points. The only thing you don't have is the ability to control a time delay like the eb2

 

That's pretty slick! I love seeing people finding creative solutions for this type of thing.

I'll definitely keep it in mind, since I'm thinking of of doing something similar in the future, but I was planning on using one of those cheesy F-16 figher jet switches

Let us know how this setup works!

 

Really nice - in for the results!

Thanks,Matt

 

I know that but its not time based just instant switching. Ill just wire it the same as my turbo truck off a window switch to get off the line thenswitch to high boost after 1st for my 6spd car.

 

Meth pump failed in me. I actually found it leaking badly when I was looking to run the ground wires for the eboost2. Going to need meth to really test it out wide open so it will be a couple of weeks. Track rental in 1-26.

FYI, you need a later firmware to do boost vs time. 4.18 I believe. I have 4.19.

 

Finally had weather and time allowing me to test this. Did not work worth a damn. This zex box is just a piece of ****. Not only did it feed power back to the tps signal wire, it lost it settings with a battery disconnect. I reset it on the side of the road. worked great with the car off. Go out to actually make passes, and it stopped working after a couple of hits.

On a side not the eb2 seemed to ramp the boost in way too aggressively on the 2 pulls it actually worked.

Not sure what is next if I want a hands off approach. May just put a wot switch on the pedal and call it good enough.

 

That sucks man. I surprised it was backfeeding with a diode inline. Unless it created a storage capacitive/inductive charge circuit that was bleeding off over time? Have you played with the eboost settings to slow the boost ramp in? When it didn't work was exactly wasn't working? Curiosity has me interested of course.

 

It's not backfeeding w the diode. That fixed that problem. Now it just works when it wants to.

You can't change anything with the ssf ramp except the time increment. It seemed to just not work correctly. I think I will just use a micro switch and use a boost by gear setup instead. Or possibly time based with 4. Lost groups.

 

Started to hook up a wot switch the the pedal. I think I will try boost method SSC on the eboost with this next. Hopefully with better results.

Got some new Hoosiers and hopefully this new boost control to try at a track rental later this month.

 

I think this will work well for the 1/4 and set roll racing. The same setup will do boost by gear as well.

 

If you have HPTuners you can use one of the outputs on the interface box as a WOT switch (output 5V when TPS is above a certain value). And you could use the other output and inputs to do other related functions as well.

 

If you give up on the eboost, You could go to an AMS1000, set it in shift based mode, have the activation off of the clutch switch, (so every time you push the clutch to shift, it triggers the next stage) then have the "reset" input wired into the brake switch..(so when you hit the brakes, it sets the AMS back to 1st)...

I have my bike set up similar to this and it works great for drag racing. For roll racing its a bit tricky though because the AMS thinks its in 1st when you're really in 2nd. You can work around it though. It is consistent and repeatable. I also tried GPS mode and couldn't get it to work consistently. Ramps are easily programmed as well, although I hate ramps...

 

It seems there is no benefit here with an ams1000 except the ramps in this scenario. Activating off the throttle will be better than the clutch I think.

I'd rather not have to hardware my hpt.

I really like the eboost2 now that I understand it. The manual is quite complicated. I'm able to dial in my boost levels and curves with no issues. It also fires off my second fuel pump. The over boost shutdown came in handy when I hit 25.8psi yesterday. lol. I'm not going to give up in it just yet.

 

Set up like this does the EB2 beep every time you hit the brakes (resetting to SP1)?

 

Mine never beeps except maybe for the overboost shutdown, but I can't hear it. I personally don't notice the LED switching. That might be b/c the wideband is constantly switching, and I ignore that most of the time.

 

Yea, just ignore that wide band. Nothing to see there. :P