meth or not
I installed a aem kit which richened it up .5 af and my iat was under 100 on the Dyno.
Btw all the kits use the same pump so the only difference is the controller. For 320 bucks I'm happy with my kit.
Thanks for the reply this info makes the most sense to me instead of using meth injection to run your tune to the limit using it as a safeguard is kinda what I am looking for. then if I run out or the system fails I should not blow up the engine






If its not needed to achieve the performance your looking for.. then don't install it. Simple. Why add something else to the car that needs maintenance.
If your seeing a need for it.. then address the strategy. Simple.
If your concern is use it as a safety, then address it from a nondependent standpoint. Meaning you use a smaller nozzle as it won't impact air fuel as much as a larger nozzle does. Tune it where it sprays on top of an existing tune whereas if you shut it off.. your back to where you started at. And depending on your computer and its tables, sometimes you can tie IAT tables to correspond to ignition advance.. and get some extra kick.. when the tables read lower.
Pump life.. on straight water .. 15 years. Most pump motors on the market will be rated well over 1000 hrs. You'll never see that much time in boost.. if you did.. the little pump doesn't owe you anything.

Seals.. valves.. this is where it gets tricky and the BS abounds all over the net. Reality.. seals sitting in 100% methanol degrade over time way faster than if they sat in water. This leads to to them harding and shrinking over time. How long is dependent on what mixture used. Straight is the worst. Thing is even if the seal shrinks.. gets hard.. the pump will still put out fluid.
So back to the question.. if you decide on making a meth dependent tune cause you want the extra power.. then simply you need to be more aware of the system on the car, its operation, testing, and "maintaing it". When a forced induction setup went on the car.. its maintenance schedules now have changed. Perfect example.. 3000 miles oil changes are no more if your beating on it. Easy explanation.. 3000 miles is 12000 1/4 mile passes.. there is no oil that will handle that. So if part of the maintenance is rebuilding a meth pump which is cheap to do.. whats the big deal. 80 bucks every few years vs 10,000 bucks for a motor? Fast, Reliable, Cheap. Pick two.
Fluid.. if you plan on using straight meth.. use the appropriate fittings and lines. Thats all. No drama.
Hope this helps.
If its not needed to achieve the performance your looking for.. then don't install it. Simple. Why add something else to the car that needs maintenance.
If your seeing a need for it.. then address the strategy. Simple.
If your concern is use it as a safety, then address it from a nondependent standpoint. Meaning you use a smaller nozzle as it won't impact air fuel as much as a larger nozzle does. Tune it where it sprays on top of an existing tune whereas if you shut it off.. your back to where you started at. And depending on your computer and its tables, sometimes you can tie IAT tables to correspond to ignition advance.. and get some extra kick.. when the tables read lower.
Pump life.. on straight water .. 15 years. Most pump motors on the market will be rated well over 1000 hrs. You'll never see that much time in boost.. if you did.. the little pump doesn't owe you anything.

Seals.. valves.. this is where it gets tricky and the BS abounds all over the net. Reality.. seals sitting in 100% methanol degrade over time way faster than if they sat in water. This leads to to them harding and shrinking over time. How long is dependent on what mixture used. Straight is the worst. Thing is even if the seal shrinks.. gets hard.. the pump will still put out fluid.
So back to the question.. if you decide on making a meth dependent tune cause you want the extra power.. then simply you need to be more aware of the system on the car, its operation, testing, and "maintaing it". When a forced induction setup went on the car.. its maintenance schedules now have changed. Perfect example.. 3000 miles oil changes are no more if your beating on it. Easy explanation.. 3000 miles is 12000 1/4 mile passes.. there is no oil that will handle that. So if part of the maintenance is rebuilding a meth pump which is cheap to do.. whats the big deal. 80 bucks every few years vs 10,000 bucks for a motor? Fast, Reliable, Cheap. Pick two.
Fluid.. if you plan on using straight meth.. use the appropriate fittings and lines. Thats all. No drama.
Hope this helps.
Flash temp on water is 180 df. It boils at 212. When you put a pot of water on the stove and it hits 180.. you steam come off it. In laymen's terns. Meaning if your IAT's don't hit 180 your going to get distribution issues. Thats if you care.
Meth flashes at 70 df. And hence why most here use it as it distributes easily.
Every PSI boost is approx 11df. So 8 psi is 88 plus ambient/ So if its 60 outside, 8 psi boost= 148 coming out of the charger. The intercooler takes this number down.. to what?? that depends on its core.. long story short.. you don't run enough temp.
Water also takes the place of fuel in the combustion chamber so this will lean your AF out.
Meth richness the AF as it burns.
This is why a lot run mixes. Example 50/50. But if its cold outside you will get drama when water is used. I know you live in the caribbean where its always hot

I don't want this to turn into water this, meth that.. just letting you know about your decisions and impact they have. In doing this now 12 years.. only broken ring lands and pistons I have had feedback on where from the use of water mixed in winter.
Your water will also freeze and that can break the head of the pump and parts if it happens. So your back to using meth.
Tuning.. meth keeps a stable tune year round. Cold, hot.. it doesn't care. Water.. you'll be fiddling with the way the car responds. The only downside to using straight meth.. its harder on pump seals. Water.. you'll spend more on tuning, drivability, experimenting.. than the costs of pump issues.
Your fear of failure should not be limited to the meth system, your fuel pump, tank transfer hoses.. can also take a dive and lean your motor out and kaboom.. injector 5 for example can go out.. if its moving or mechanical in nature.. it can fail.
Way around it, use a wide band sensor to monitor air fuel.If the fuel system is working properly.. air fuel will be where it needs to be.
I've been running an extremely heavy meth dependent tune now since 2003 with no issues. I do test and maintain my system tho.. over 1k rwhp on 93. I don't wait for an issue.
Hope this helps
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Flash temp on water is 180 df. It boils at 212. When you put a pot of water on the stove and it hits 180.. you steam come off it. In laymen's terns. Meaning if your IAT's don't hit 180 your going to get distribution issues. Thats if you care.
Meth flashes at 70 df. And hence why most here use it as it distributes easily.
Every PSI boost is approx 11df. So 8 psi is 88 plus ambient/ So if its 60 outside, 8 psi boost= 148 coming out of the charger. The intercooler takes this number down.. to what?? that depends on its core.. long story short.. you don't run enough temp.
Water also takes the place of fuel in the combustion chamber so this will lean your AF out.
Meth richness the AF as it burns.
This is why a lot run mixes. Example 50/50. But if its cold outside you will get drama when water is used. I know you live in the caribbean where its always hot

I don't want this to turn into water this, meth that.. just letting you know about your decisions and impact they have. In doing this now 12 years.. only broken ring lands and pistons I have had feedback on where from the use of water mixed in winter.
Your water will also freeze and that can break the head of the pump and parts if it happens. So your back to using meth.
Tuning.. meth keeps a stable tune year round. Cold, hot.. it doesn't care. Water.. you'll be fiddling with the way the car responds. The only downside to using straight meth.. its harder on pump seals. Water.. you'll spend more on tuning, drivability, experimenting.. than the costs of pump issues.
Your fear of failure should not be limited to the meth system, your fuel pump, tank transfer hoses.. can also take a dive and lean your motor out and kaboom.. injector 5 for example can go out.. if its moving or mechanical in nature.. it can fail.
Way around it, use a wide band sensor to monitor air fuel.If the fuel system is working properly.. air fuel will be where it needs to be.
I've been running an extremely heavy meth dependent tune now since 2003 with no issues. I do test and maintain my system tho.. over 1k rwhp on 93. I don't wait for an issue.
Hope this helps









