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As for "need" to run a vacuum pump....what sort of power are you expecting ?
When you get to the stage of needing a vacuum pump....I'd say you'd need to be pushing pretty damn hard, ie well into 4 figures.[/QUOTE]
I'm only looking for 770-800rwhp. The builder stated a .031 ring gap, and said "there's going to be blowby, you just need to run a vacuum pump.
Dont's want to do that
I guess I just find it odd that I am running 10.5lbs and 700+ on stock rings and stock GAP, and have for 3 yrs
He says he will stand behind everything else except any damage caused by the rings butting if I give a recommendation other than the .031 his builder recommends. (If I go with him it will not be .031)
It's Thompson Motorsports, and they seem to have a good reputation on the forums for what I can find, but then I haven't been able to get a whole lot of feedback. In cases where there has been a problem, he seems to try and resolve it, but I cant afford to have an issue on a reg. street engine
Kyle has been VERY patient with my unending questions, but as I told him, I can't find ANYONE that is running that much gap, but I can't afford to give him a recommendation and lose a motor.......
I wonder if I should just buy a set of rings from Diamond (pistons being used) get their recommendations and ask him to use them
FWIW I had my Thompson built Iron block on the dyno yesterday. Worked like a champ. My crankcase is just breathered atm. You get the slightest wiff of oil after a dyno pull, but its not blowing oil. I dont feel any significant pressure or pulses from the breather or oil cap opening. I put 14PSI through it.
Just the same, I'll be converting my air pump into a vacuum pump on a hobbs switch in the near future. I did all the wiring for a meth setup then decided not to run it. So I'll use it for the air motor :P
He says he will stand behind everything else except any damage caused by the rings butting if I give a recommendation other than the .031 his builder recommends. (If I go with him it will not be .031)
It's Thompson Motorsports, and they seem to have a good reputation on the forums for what I can find, but then I haven't been able to get a whole lot of feedback. In cases where there has been a problem, he seems to try and resolve it, but I cant afford to have an issue on a reg. street engine
Kyle has been VERY patient with my unending questions, but as I told him, I can't find ANYONE that is running that much gap, but I can't afford to give him a recommendation and lose a motor.......
I wonder if I should just buy a set of rings from Diamond (pistons being used) get their recommendations and ask him to use them
I would have no concerns about 31 thou really. As everyone agrees, all risk comes from rings being too tight, so a little loose will be fine. Although why is he deviating so far from manufacturers specs ?
I'm sure some of mine are that loose....but purely because I got carried away with the file lol
I have concern by the fact he is telling you that you "need" to run a vacuum pump. That's just complete BS. You do not need to.
It may be beneficial, but certainly not needed.
Last edited by stevieturbo; Jan 12, 2014 at 05:52 AM.
The reason I am having trouble getting information from seal power on the rings, is that they are rings he uses are made for TM.
QUESTION; I can get the gapless in the build for $100 extra. Do you think I should just go with that and have a great ring AND get the correct gap straight from TS and be comfortable.
I'd be very surprised if the rings are made specifically for one engine builder, and unique only to him...if so, they'd be pretty damn expensive.
Because they'd be unique for every single application/engine.
So if TS off the shelf rings are more expensive...I think someone might be telling fibs.
"The diamond piston part # is an 809tho. The rings are made for us exclusively, this means we are the only source of information on the rings. We are able to run the total seal as we discussed earlier at an additional cost."