Reason I am posting in this part of the forum is because you guys are pushing out big numbers. If I do not sell my car by the end of summer next winter I will be doing a BIG make over, hopefully to be pushing close to 1000hp at the crank. So my question is, anybody have recommendations on differentials, transmissions, and everything in the drivetrain? Thank you!

-Anthony

 

RPM has all the best upgrades

 

Okay thank you!

 

What kind of racing are you going to be doing? Spirited driving/highway pulls on the street or drag strip use?

 

rpmtransmissions.com gets my vote

 

If the answer is Drag Racing, start out with a F-body car.

 

You will save a ton of money, plus you can get it to hook up a lot cheaper. But if you are set on the vette then go with RPM stuff with a c6 cradle under the car, with z06 rear end, rpm level VII trans if a auto, stick t6060 trans. But I think you will be much happier with a a4 trans in the car.

 

C6Z/ZR1 goodies.......if only I could afford lol

 

I went with a fully built tr6060/c6z diff from Rick@rkt56 Now im not even slightly worried about exploding a diff.

 

Some things become very expensive lessons, especially if you plan to launch hard, such as drag racing the car.

I doubt you have to take it this far. It took me a long time to pull the trigger on this build... It just came down to "How many rears would you like to break until you switch to something different?"

After building and re-building a number of GM rears with every possible aftermarket part (up through 500m shafts, billet case covers and more), I finally pulled the trigger and hope to have something a bit more bullet proof, which includes, but not limited to: RPM modified torque tube with new torque tube bearings and slinger with a DSS prop-shaft, RPM torque tube converter drive plate, completely rebuilt PG trans with upgraded shaft and other mods, RPM Billet Bellhousing, RPM Powerglide to 9" rear adapter, 9" IRS rear with Moser aluminum thru-bolted center section with RPM Billet pinion support, steel spool and Richmond gears, out to modified DSS axles. It also includes all ARP bolts, custom / chromed braces on top and bottom and the rear cradle was modified to accommodate the 9". Quite a bit of fabrication was performed to mount the rear down, including the chromed K-brace and custom pumpkin to cradle mount. Rear A-Arm are from Farks. Trans cooler is off to the side and two Canton catch cans are run; one off the trans and one off the rear. Also added a driveshaft RPM sensor for logging via the ECU.

I would recommend you call RPM Transmissions, tell them what you have, HP you're targeting, what your plans are and the type of driving. They'll take care of you

Here's a recent pic as the work progresses ( since it's all shiny and new, I'll be replacing that dirty trans pan this week )

 

Dam show off! Very nice Dave. A piece of art. Robert

 

To the OP here. If you put a c6 cradle under the car that will move the rear back 5/8 of a inch. Which will let you put a 28 inch tall tire under the car without hitting anything in front of the tire like the duct work or inn fender.

 

It depends on what you are going to do with the car. If its an auto, and you are only going to "play" with it, or when you go to the strip, run drag radials and NOT slicks, you may be able to get away with just a built transmission
I'm running a RPM V and a Z06 rear, and have gone through a couple of sets of DRs and nothing broke yet.
I don't plan on bolting on any slicks

 

No drag racing, mostly roll racing, but I would like to keep it manual, thanks for the feedback guys!

 

So whats wrong with the stock drivetrain on a 500+rwhp car during a 6k clutch dump on slicks?

I have yet to take mine to the track but would like to take it someday with some light launches to see what it would do.

 

Light launches You better get one of those 2,k buck clutches. If it going to last any time doing any hard pulls thur the gears.

 

Haha I feel ya my budget drivetrain set up is decent but not ideal. I dont really plan to launch or hotlap much at all.

My budget set up:

-ACT clutch (rated to 745 tq) with remote bleeder
-MN12 T56 with billet keys, bronze pads, steel 3-4 fork, RPM 9310 mainshaft ( Would have done Viper shaft but didnt want to tear into diff)
-Slightly built diff with hardned shafts and kevlar clutch disks I believe (Already done to car when I got it)
-DTE brace and Hinson trans mount

Car is really run 95% on the street on 295 street tires and never really intended for 1/4. I am very interested in R888's for all around duty tho



Sorry for the hijack OP