Introduction, history and a few questions
08-10-2014, 10:42 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Introduction, history and a few questions
Hello all, I am going to go by Dragonvette as homage to my father who past recently and left me the 2001 z06 C5. I dad was the Vice President of his local motorcycle club and went by Dragon, hence the name. My dad was gear head from the time he started driving. He has raced boats semi professionally, raced cars and motorcycles as a hobby.
He bought the car as a last chance for excitement before his cancer progessed to far, he only got to enjoy it for a little while.
Here are the current list of mods:
Forged 383 stroker, eagle crank and rods, Diamond flattops 11:1, prc stage 3 64cc Ls6 heads, scorpion 1.7 rockers, prc dual valve springs, ls2 timing chain, ls7 lifters, cam 625. 625 232 236 112+4, Fast 92mm Intake, rails and 36# injectors, Ls2 throttle body, Lg super pro heAders, ghl bullet exhaust, Vararam V2 Intake and power duct,Hinson enging and transmission mounts, rpm torque tube kit, tick master cylinder, racetronix fuel pump, blisten sport shocks, rpm stage 5 transmission, rpm stage 3 differential, 300m shafts, c6 pinion supports, 3.90 gears, it also has a 150 shot nitrous kit installed with window switch that has never been used.
So I was reading and dreaming on the forums and came across the post by East Texas Muscle Cars about the A&A install and decided to save it to the bookmarks (using my fathers phone) and guess what , The exact page was already saved, I also found their website saved in the bookmarks. My wife and I ( she really was encouraging it) thought it was fitting to do it. So the car is in Stephens hands in Longview right now. He is changing out the cam to more blower oriented cam and installing the a&a kit with a 4" pulley looking at getting 6-7 psi until I change the heads out.
So here is my question, What do I need to get to support the supercharger I.e. gauges, or montitoring devices. I am open to any other suggestions as well. I will be taking the NOS kit out to sell it to put towards a set of heads. Oh and I upgraded the blower to the v3ti and 80# Injectors.
Thanks for any suggestions.
He bought the car as a last chance for excitement before his cancer progessed to far, he only got to enjoy it for a little while.
Here are the current list of mods:
Forged 383 stroker, eagle crank and rods, Diamond flattops 11:1, prc stage 3 64cc Ls6 heads, scorpion 1.7 rockers, prc dual valve springs, ls2 timing chain, ls7 lifters, cam 625. 625 232 236 112+4, Fast 92mm Intake, rails and 36# injectors, Ls2 throttle body, Lg super pro heAders, ghl bullet exhaust, Vararam V2 Intake and power duct,Hinson enging and transmission mounts, rpm torque tube kit, tick master cylinder, racetronix fuel pump, blisten sport shocks, rpm stage 5 transmission, rpm stage 3 differential, 300m shafts, c6 pinion supports, 3.90 gears, it also has a 150 shot nitrous kit installed with window switch that has never been used.
So I was reading and dreaming on the forums and came across the post by East Texas Muscle Cars about the A&A install and decided to save it to the bookmarks (using my fathers phone) and guess what , The exact page was already saved, I also found their website saved in the bookmarks. My wife and I ( she really was encouraging it) thought it was fitting to do it. So the car is in Stephens hands in Longview right now. He is changing out the cam to more blower oriented cam and installing the a&a kit with a 4" pulley looking at getting 6-7 psi until I change the heads out.
So here is my question, What do I need to get to support the supercharger I.e. gauges, or montitoring devices. I am open to any other suggestions as well. I will be taking the NOS kit out to sell it to put towards a set of heads. Oh and I upgraded the blower to the v3ti and 80# Injectors.
Thanks for any suggestions.
08-11-2014, 05:06 AM
#2
Find out:
- Your compression ratio
- If those internals are forged
- If you have aftermarket Katech or ARP connecting rod bolts
- If you have a 1,2, or 3bar MAP sensor
6-7psi is probably low for that build and given the fact you're in TX, you have access to 93 octane. You already have the valve train hardware. Spin that sucker up and add moar boost!
Fuel pressure and Wideband is a good place to start for gauges. Check out AEM 30-4900. NGK AFX is also popular, but it requires frequent recalibration if you plan on leaving it in the car.
Compression ratio, available octane, and intake air temps do more to govern your boost and timing than the flow capability of your heads; although since boost is a measure of restriction, better flowing intake paths yield lower boost numbers. Run the boost/timing your engine/environmentals allow. When you're ready for better flowing heads, your boost will drop but you'll still flow the same amount of air. Then you can either pulley down to replace your lost boost, or enjoy the same/better power from the new heads with lower boost.
At 6-7psi, you'll be close to the edge of what your ECM can handle. At 10psi, I exceed the ECM limit of 512g/s @ 6k. Any more boost and you'll need to decide if you want a scaled MAF tune or an SD tune. Do some reading and figure out what makes the most sense for you. If you go SD, you'll want at least a 2bar MAP. I'm about to transition to SD. IMHO, you'll save money on tuning if you just get a 2bar MAP sensor installed and make the move to SD now.
Also may want to look into meth. It took me a while to come around, but I finally did. My kit is going in this week. You can use it for safety against bad gas, detonation resistance, or even higher octane. Alkycontrol kits are popular.
Sorry to hear about your dad.
- Your compression ratio
- If those internals are forged
- If you have aftermarket Katech or ARP connecting rod bolts
- If you have a 1,2, or 3bar MAP sensor
6-7psi is probably low for that build and given the fact you're in TX, you have access to 93 octane. You already have the valve train hardware. Spin that sucker up and add moar boost!
Fuel pressure and Wideband is a good place to start for gauges. Check out AEM 30-4900. NGK AFX is also popular, but it requires frequent recalibration if you plan on leaving it in the car.
Compression ratio, available octane, and intake air temps do more to govern your boost and timing than the flow capability of your heads; although since boost is a measure of restriction, better flowing intake paths yield lower boost numbers. Run the boost/timing your engine/environmentals allow. When you're ready for better flowing heads, your boost will drop but you'll still flow the same amount of air. Then you can either pulley down to replace your lost boost, or enjoy the same/better power from the new heads with lower boost.
At 6-7psi, you'll be close to the edge of what your ECM can handle. At 10psi, I exceed the ECM limit of 512g/s @ 6k. Any more boost and you'll need to decide if you want a scaled MAF tune or an SD tune. Do some reading and figure out what makes the most sense for you. If you go SD, you'll want at least a 2bar MAP. I'm about to transition to SD. IMHO, you'll save money on tuning if you just get a 2bar MAP sensor installed and make the move to SD now.
Also may want to look into meth. It took me a while to come around, but I finally did. My kit is going in this week. You can use it for safety against bad gas, detonation resistance, or even higher octane. Alkycontrol kits are popular.
Sorry to hear about your dad.
08-11-2014, 06:43 AM
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thank you for the reply, I will look into all of your suggestions. And to answer a few of you questions, everything is forged, and I do have arp bolts but I am not certain if it is just bolted or studded, when I replace the heads I will stud it. The only reason I was looking into changing heads was to lower the compression to 9.5-9.8 so I could pulley down. I am also reading about Meth right now.
08-11-2014, 02:53 PM
#4
Just to be clear, it wasn't a question about your head bolts/studs, but the piston connecting rod bolts. I'm not speaking from personal experience on that one, but I've read a few reputable articles about stock rod bolts being a weak link for higher RPMs.
I wouldn't immediately jump to <10:1 compression if your engine is happy with octane/timing/boost. You'll lose a little low end power. I've been thinking of 317 heads as well, but I'm dealing with AZ heat so while lower compression will cost me down low, I can only manage about 10* of timing with 10:1 and 91 octane. I'll make that decision after my cam and meth install going on this week.
I wouldn't immediately jump to <10:1 compression if your engine is happy with octane/timing/boost. You'll lose a little low end power. I've been thinking of 317 heads as well, but I'm dealing with AZ heat so while lower compression will cost me down low, I can only manage about 10* of timing with 10:1 and 91 octane. I'll make that decision after my cam and meth install going on this week.