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Been installing my system from nitrous outlet. All the hard parts are installed minus the fuel pump and harness I'm waiting on. I'm a little intimidated by the wiring and don't want to make a mess of things.
Anyone have pics of how they did their setup and advice on how to do this? Even other brands should give me an idea. I have to wire the switch, solenoids, fuel pres. safety switch, purge solenoid, NOS mini 2 stage controller, and and LNC2000 timing retard devise.
My worry is that if I wire these all up individually as each part has it's own instructions, I'll end up with a mess. I assume all these will need to end up being wired in together at some point. But I don't know how to do that.
For example, how do I know which of all these items go through the relay? Haha, I don't even know where to start!
hello , just did my current system, go to NX web site , top banner to the right it says instructions, next screen pick your equivalent system (GM EFI) and on the instruction pages there are wiring diagrams and of course step by step , easy to follow, good luck
hello , just did my current system, go to NX web site , top banner to the right it says instructions, next screen pick your equivalent system (GM EFI) and on the instruction pages there are wiring diagrams and of course step by step , easy to follow, good luck
Do you know where you will be installing everything? I used the FJO Mini progressive in my car and put it in the glove box. I removed the panels under the passenger dash and you can see the grommet through the fire wall to get wires into the engine bay. There are also 3 wires (ground, switched 12V, constant 12V) typically wrapped in black tape down in the foot well. I used the foot well wires to power my BeerC5 switch panel I placed where the ash tray was. My man feed line is routed inside the car under the door sill and rear sail panels. If you have some specifics I can offer some more advice.
Do you know where you will be installing everything? I used the FJO Mini progressive in my car and put it in the glove box. I removed the panels under the passenger dash and you can see the grommet through the fire wall to get wires into the engine bay. There are also 3 wires (ground, switched 12V, constant 12V) typically wrapped in black tape down in the foot well. I used the foot well wires to power my BeerC5 switch panel I placed where the ash tray was. My man feed line is routed inside the car under the door sill and rear sail panels. If you have some specifics I can offer some more advice.
Great advice on the grommet through the fire wall. That will come in handy. My switch panel goes in the ash tray too, and I routed the main feed line the same way you did. But not through the fire wall, it goes up through the door and into the fender then into the engine bay. A lot cleaner than it sounds. But I saw all the electronics down user the glove box and didn't want to mess around in that area. Maybe I will through. I suppose the glove box would be a good place for the lnc2000 too? It has long wires.
Great advice on the grommet through the fire wall. That will come in handy. My switch panel goes in the ash tray too, and I routed the main feed line the same way you did. But not through the fire wall, it goes up through the door and into the fender then into the engine bay. A lot cleaner than it sounds. But I saw all the electronics down user the glove box and didn't want to mess around in that area. Maybe I will through. I suppose the glove box would be a good place for the lnc2000 too? It has long wires.
The LNC2000 maybe better off in the battery area. I have never used one, but I had the Harlan 2 step in my car. It was similar, but short wires. I had it on the outside of the battery area until it fell and melted on the header. I think the coil pack connector will be too big to fit through the grommet. That is why I would put it in the battery area and screw it through the plastic side that seals to the hood. To power things, I just tapped the post on the side of the under hood fuse panel. I would use crimp on a wire terminal that fit to a fuse holder and then run the wires I needed inside the car. For grounds I typically found a spot close to where I was wiring. By the engine I ran most the the passenger side ground terminal by the headlight. Inside the car I found my grounding points closest to where I was wiring.
Last edited by Sigforty; Aug 12, 2014 at 02:14 PM.
Thanks a lot man. That all makes sense and gives me a direction. There is a good place for the lnc2000 near the bat. I just don't want a very unprofessional looking install with wires all over the place. But I'm sure it won't look bad if I just cut the wires long enough to reach a near ground for each component. The wires for the nos controller and switch board will just go through the grommet then.
Question, the switch board will take place of the arming switch that comes with the kit right? And there's no need for the peddle actuator if I'm using the tps function on the nos controller?
if I understand your question you are asking if you can use the C5 switch panel instead of the one that comes with kit, yes, it doesnt matter, IMHO you need a master just to be sure no accidents which in my case arms the arming switch to get the solenoids ready via the relay , you can direct wire the purge button ( I have a seperate "arm" switch for purge and then use the T handle on my B+M shifter for purge) , and again if I am understanding you , yes, you can use the TPS in place of the micro switch activation
my panel I custom made it has master which allows power to bottle opener switch and master solenoids switch ( i like redundancy and switches :-) ) , purge I wired direct so I can turn on and off and use T handle purge button (for show) , without actually arming the entire system, now i just need to wire in my parachute and ejector seat :-) , good luck
Originally Posted by NukeC5
Thanks a lot man. That all makes sense and gives me a direction. There is a good place for the lnc2000 near the bat. I just don't want a very unprofessional looking install with wires all over the place. But I'm sure it won't look bad if I just cut the wires long enough to reach a near ground for each component. The wires for the nos controller and switch board will just go through the grommet then.
Question, the switch board will take place of the arming switch that comes with the kit right? And there's no need for the peddle actuator if I'm using the tps function on the nos controller?
Thanks a lot man. That all makes sense and gives me a direction. There is a good place for the lnc2000 near the bat. I just don't want a very unprofessional looking install with wires all over the place. But I'm sure it won't look bad if I just cut the wires long enough to reach a near ground for each component. The wires for the nos controller and switch board will just go through the grommet then.
Question, the switch board will take place of the arming switch that comes with the kit right? And there's no need for the peddle actuator if I'm using the tps function on the nos controller?
Yes, your panel switch will be the main on/off for the system. Correct as well, if you use the TPS then there is no need to wire a micro switch. I personally found it easier to wire and install the micro switch under the pedal compared to using TPS. So that was the route I went.
You can Tap the TPS and the RPM signal from the computer by partially removing the passenger inner fender. The computer is right under the battery. That is where I made my RPM signal connection.
So is the TPS signal a rising or falling type on these cars? The instructions say a lot of GM cars are falling signals. Most others are rising.
I wish there was a super detailed write up out there.. IE: this color wire is the tps signal wire to use, this color for the fuel pressure safety switch to attach to etc. But I'll try to make do.
Also, where is a good location for the relay? Seems like it should be somewhere central to the system. So inside the engine compartment? And does the entire system work off one relay? My instructions are showing two. But I'm thinking it just means there are more than one system for each point on the relay.. Sorry guys. Electrical is my most hated part of car work. Should have learned more.
One I get this all set up, anyone have tips on the system settings? FYI it's an A4 Trans with 3.42 gears and a 3200 stall.
To start off I have the 100 shot jet installed. I will have it active at wot, and I'm thinking the window set from 3k rpm to 5500 (my mild cam makes power to 6k rpm. I'll double check. Do I want it to turn of to let the Trans shift? Suggestions on that would be great. As far as the timing retard, I'll probably pull 4 degrees since 2 per 50 shot seems to be the recommendation. Not sure how to set the ramp rate. Suggestions on starting % and how many seconds to the full shot?
Not sure with an auto, but I have mine to come on at 3k and shut off at 6300 right before I shift. With a 100 you may not need any ramp rate just got all in. On my 200 I start with at 50% and ramp to 100% over 1 second. I also use first gear lockout to help with traction off the line.
Not sure with an auto, but I have mine to come on at 3k and shut off at 6300 right before I shift. With a 100 you may not need any ramp rate just got all in. On my 200 I start with at 50% and ramp to 100% over 1 second. I also use first gear lockout to help with traction off the line.
Probably dont need to ramp yet then. But I will be quickly moving up to 150 then 175 as soon as I'm use to it. How much timing do you pull? Do you do the recommended 2 per 50? I've even heard people say you can do 100 shots without pulling timing. Not going to chance it, but maybe 1 degree would be more reasonable.
Probably dont need to ramp yet then. But I will be quickly moving up to 150 then 175 as soon as I'm use to it. How much timing do you pull? Do you do the recommended 2 per 50? I've even heard people say you can do 100 shots without pulling timing. Not going to chance it, but maybe 1 degree would be more reasonable.
I pull the 2 per 50. My nitrous tune is optimal for my 200 shot, but if I ever scale the nitrous back I am still running that tune. It pulls out 8 degrees of timing.