Purge issues
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 169
Likes: 1
Purge issues c6z
I've bumped up from 2-300 shot and put a 6an line ,now I'm having a lot of problems getting it to purge .its along time between nitrous uses some time months . Sat.i had to mess around for 15 minutes before I finally got it stop acting up .pressure was at 900 psi
Last edited by The black bitch.; Sep 7, 2014 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Wrong section
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 169
Likes: 1
It's got a white flume come out but when I get on it it bogs I go through same procedure 3-4 times and then it's takes of like a beast. I don't trust to race for $ that's for sure . I wonder the said the nitrous solenoid go be having problems
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,750
Likes: 377
From: South Florida FL
how old is it, could be just tired. at one mine slowly degraded. especially at high pressures above 1000 it's work about 50% of the time. I just switched to an induction solution solenoid.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
5 MOST and 5 LEAST Popular Corvette Model Years in History!
Joe Kucinski
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
One of the main purposes of a purge valve is so that the solenoids don't get tired.. You moved to a 6AN mainline right? Have you made sure it isn't clogged? Do you run a nitrous filter? If you moved up from 4AN, your 4AN filter wouldn't fit if you had one. So I'm assuming you aren't running one. I suggest you purge out the system and makes sure each individual component is working. And get a filter on the system.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas
A few tips:
Bad voltage is often why I see solenoids acting up. Check the voltage across the solenoids during operation. If your controller throws a hot, feed your controller off the back of the alternator and ground the noids to the back of the driver side head. Make good, clean connections. Solder and heat shrink. No wire nuts. butt connectors are second best. Grounds should be to shiny metal, no paint and using star washers to the chassis. Just because it's metal doesn't mean it's a good ground.
Bad voltage is often why I see solenoids acting up. Check the voltage across the solenoids during operation. If your controller throws a hot, feed your controller off the back of the alternator and ground the noids to the back of the driver side head. Make good, clean connections. Solder and heat shrink. No wire nuts. butt connectors are second best. Grounds should be to shiny metal, no paint and using star washers to the chassis. Just because it's metal doesn't mean it's a good ground.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 753
Likes: 1
From: Cape Town
A few tips:
Bad voltage is often why I see solenoids acting up. Check the voltage across the solenoids during operation. If your controller throws a hot, feed your controller off the back of the alternator and ground the noids to the back of the driver side head. Make good, clean connections. Solder and heat shrink. No wire nuts. butt connectors are second best. Grounds should be to shiny metal, no paint and using star washers to the chassis. Just because it's metal doesn't mean it's a good ground.
Bad voltage is often why I see solenoids acting up. Check the voltage across the solenoids during operation. If your controller throws a hot, feed your controller off the back of the alternator and ground the noids to the back of the driver side head. Make good, clean connections. Solder and heat shrink. No wire nuts. butt connectors are second best. Grounds should be to shiny metal, no paint and using star washers to the chassis. Just because it's metal doesn't mean it's a good ground.
I run a full Zex system and it was as you said a bad contact on the bottom of the crimp connector and played-up every time.
I find better to disconnect the line and before the system and a small blow if standing for long as mine... then on to the system and just check jetting and fittings anyway...
could not see it even if you were looking and had to move it to find it intermittent breaking down...
Last edited by C5 Scully; Sep 9, 2014 at 03:05 PM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 78
From: Forney Texas