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Purge issues

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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 06:57 PM
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Default Purge issues c6z

I've bumped up from 2-300 shot and put a 6an line ,now I'm having a lot of problems getting it to purge .its along time between nitrous uses some time months . Sat.i had to mess around for 15 minutes before I finally got it stop acting up .pressure was at 900 psi

Last edited by The black bitch.; Sep 7, 2014 at 07:55 PM. Reason: Wrong section
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Old Sep 7, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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so you're saying you changed nothing else but jetting and it was working before?
I'm trying to what else but the solenoid to blame. could be just a tired purge solenoid
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 06:04 PM
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It's got a white flume come out but when I get on it it bogs I go through same procedure 3-4 times and then it's takes of like a beast. I don't trust to race for $ that's for sure . I wonder the said the nitrous solenoid go be having problems
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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make sure no trash in the lines and check all solenoids.
what solenoids do you have?
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 07:48 PM
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Nitrous outlet
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Old Sep 8, 2014 | 10:48 PM
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how old is it, could be just tired. at one mine slowly degraded. especially at high pressures above 1000 it's work about 50% of the time. I just switched to an induction solution solenoid.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 02:36 AM
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Did you try changing any relays
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 08:27 AM
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OK I'll look into I haven't changed the relay or check solenoid
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 09:20 AM
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One of the main purposes of a purge valve is so that the solenoids don't get tired.. You moved to a 6AN mainline right? Have you made sure it isn't clogged? Do you run a nitrous filter? If you moved up from 4AN, your 4AN filter wouldn't fit if you had one. So I'm assuming you aren't running one. I suggest you purge out the system and makes sure each individual component is working. And get a filter on the system.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 12:58 PM
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A few tips:

Bad voltage is often why I see solenoids acting up. Check the voltage across the solenoids during operation. If your controller throws a hot, feed your controller off the back of the alternator and ground the noids to the back of the driver side head. Make good, clean connections. Solder and heat shrink. No wire nuts. butt connectors are second best. Grounds should be to shiny metal, no paint and using star washers to the chassis. Just because it's metal doesn't mean it's a good ground.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
A few tips:

Bad voltage is often why I see solenoids acting up. Check the voltage across the solenoids during operation. If your controller throws a hot, feed your controller off the back of the alternator and ground the noids to the back of the driver side head. Make good, clean connections. Solder and heat shrink. No wire nuts. butt connectors are second best. Grounds should be to shiny metal, no paint and using star washers to the chassis. Just because it's metal doesn't mean it's a good ground.


I run a full Zex system and it was as you said a bad contact on the bottom of the crimp connector and played-up every time.

I find better to disconnect the line and before the system and a small blow if standing for long as mine... then on to the system and just check jetting and fittings anyway...

could not see it even if you were looking and had to move it to find it intermittent breaking down...

Last edited by C5 Scully; Sep 9, 2014 at 03:05 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 07:08 PM
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Yes I have a 6an line I'll check voltage this weekend and if I find nothing wrong I'll get a filter and rebuild the solenoid .thanks for all the replies
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by The black bitch.
Yes I have a 6an line I'll check voltage this weekend and if I find nothing wrong I'll get a filter and rebuild the solenoid .thanks for all the replies
You have to check the voltage AT the solenoid.
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Old Sep 9, 2014 | 09:52 PM
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That first thing I plan ,I'm trying make races in a week and right now it wouldn't be reliable runs
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