When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys! I haven't been around in a while. Good to see some familiar names still posting. Anywho, I ripped my torque tube couplers a while back and my car has been sitting. I finally decided on the route to take since I'm going to have everything out, why not build a new motor! I'm thinking a iron block 408/ lsa heads/ ls9 gaskets/ ls3 intake/a&a ysi and secondary drive. I'll be selling my current si trim ( maybe the whole kit for an easier transaction) so holla if you know someone in need! I'm thinking the rpm poly bushings for the torque tube rebuild. Anyways, let me know your thoughts on it. I'll be adding pics from time to time, getting excited to work on my own car for a change!
Did u take the rack out to snake the motor out with the torque tube still in ? I'm a day or 2 from yanking my motor out. It's down to the shortblock now with all the accessories off.
Did u take the rack out to snake the motor out with the torque tube still in ? I'm a day or 2 from yanking my motor out. It's down to the shortblock now with all the accessories off.
down to the short block way to go easy to get at bell housing bolts..
i pulled mine torque tube in untouched from top
put a jack under torque tube to get correct angle to pull engine out once u jack engine to clear frame u have to get angle by jacking torque tube then jus slide engine foward and out..pretty easy all my rest of drivetrain is untouched
my rack is out dont know if its possible still in would have to try
Last edited by blown81bu; Dec 17, 2014 at 09:28 PM.
Did u take the rack out to snake the motor out with the torque tube still in ? I'm a day or 2 from yanking my motor out. It's down to the shortblock now with all the accessories off.
No I left it hooked up. All I did was drop the front k member about 6" then you can walk the motor forward enough to pull it off the shaft and up and out. Its not to bad. Just make sure you set up the engine leveler right so the cherry picker doesn't bump the nose of the car. I put a wheel chock in front of it so it couldn't touch the car.
No I left it hooked up. All I did was drop the front k member about 6" then you can walk the motor forward enough to pull it off the shaft and up and out. Its not to bad. Just make sure you set up the engine leveler right so the cherry picker doesn't bump the nose of the car. I put a wheel chock in front of it so it couldn't touch the car.
Gotcha, I'll try dropping the cradle. I pulled off the front bumper cover so I can pick it from the front without worrying about damaging anything on the front end.
Got some time to wrench today. I knew the TT couplers were bad but damn....
Tube got scared up
This was at around 600rwhp. New build will be 800rwhp what should I go with and why? I was initially thinking the rpm poly couplers... I have rpm built trans/diff/and their 3400 triple disk convertor
Oh hell yea! There was a bunch of us on a cruise and my car was feeling sluggish. It will usually lay stripes on the street anywhere, I romped on it and the whole car started to shake. I knew what it was pretty quick. Its been parked ever since.
Not sure.. I'm waiting to see this Huron turbo kit. It's supposed to be worth the wait. In no hurry, 408 probably won't be done till closer to the end of the month.