Driving Style
Thread Starter
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 12,451
Likes: 7,152
From: CT
Driving Style
I'm stepping across the aisle to the supercharger world for the first time and have a few questions.
I'm used to 500+ hp engines and about 425 to the wheels. Never broke anything more significant than a factory clutch, and I actually hammered that TA pretty hard. It took the abuse well, but probably because there wasn't much left stock on the car.
In this case, it's a whole different story. This is my second C5. I babied my original. This one I drive for fun. No burnouts or drag racing on the streets. But I do love roll through the gears, and with a light flywheel, RST, and an MGW short throw I can change gears and RPM pretty quickly.
I'm thinking that's probably a practice I'll want to back off of with a centrifugal blower. But you tell me.
If you've read this far -- any tips on supporting mods to increase engine/trans/diff survival?
Mods thus far:
(bpp ram air for now)
LTs
x-pipe
borla stingers
Pfadt trans mount
6-shooter diff tube ends
fidanza lightweight
RST
centric cryo rotors
stoptech pads
redline 600
Z06 wheels / OE size tires
tuned, it achieved 343 rwhp NA
The blower kit is a P1sc with A&A ic, tubes, bracket and BAP.
I was going to go with Nitto DRs if I kept it NA. Now I'm not sure if I want to keep the tires as the "weak link" so I don't go and snap something when I apply the power.
I guess what I'm asking in the end here is, given a safe tune and largely moderate driving, what are the NO-NOs and where can I look to prevent or reduce wear or death of the drivetrain?
I'm used to 500+ hp engines and about 425 to the wheels. Never broke anything more significant than a factory clutch, and I actually hammered that TA pretty hard. It took the abuse well, but probably because there wasn't much left stock on the car.
In this case, it's a whole different story. This is my second C5. I babied my original. This one I drive for fun. No burnouts or drag racing on the streets. But I do love roll through the gears, and with a light flywheel, RST, and an MGW short throw I can change gears and RPM pretty quickly.
I'm thinking that's probably a practice I'll want to back off of with a centrifugal blower. But you tell me.
If you've read this far -- any tips on supporting mods to increase engine/trans/diff survival?
Mods thus far:
(bpp ram air for now)
LTs
x-pipe
borla stingers
Pfadt trans mount
6-shooter diff tube ends
fidanza lightweight
RST
centric cryo rotors
stoptech pads
redline 600
Z06 wheels / OE size tires
tuned, it achieved 343 rwhp NA
The blower kit is a P1sc with A&A ic, tubes, bracket and BAP.
I was going to go with Nitto DRs if I kept it NA. Now I'm not sure if I want to keep the tires as the "weak link" so I don't go and snap something when I apply the power.
I guess what I'm asking in the end here is, given a safe tune and largely moderate driving, what are the NO-NOs and where can I look to prevent or reduce wear or death of the drivetrain?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,764
Likes: 374
From: Central Florida
No burnouts? I wish I could be so disciplined, I guess that's why some people say the stock stuff can hold up to 5, 6, even 700 hp.... Did not work for me, the power of a sc is absolutely addictive.
Good luck staying out of it.
Good luck staying out of it.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 15
From: Richardson TX
Luckily going F/I is easier on the drivetrain than a big HP NA engine, since FI makes power at the top of the rev range, and generally drives like stock when not in boost and/or below ~2500 RPM.
Just be easy on launching and you shouldn't break anything unless you're 600+ hp.
An ECS trans/diff brace would be a good idea if you're paranoid about the drivetrain. They're only $400, pretty cheap for what they do.
I have Nitto N555r drag radials in the back (305/35/18) and I really like them. Good traction and handling, but can still spin 'em if you're trying, and they do fine in the rain if you're not stupid.
Just be easy on launching and you shouldn't break anything unless you're 600+ hp.
An ECS trans/diff brace would be a good idea if you're paranoid about the drivetrain. They're only $400, pretty cheap for what they do.
I have Nitto N555r drag radials in the back (305/35/18) and I really like them. Good traction and handling, but can still spin 'em if you're trying, and they do fine in the rain if you're not stupid.
