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Pull the downpipe. It's not that bad on the pass side. Tight quarters for sure and ends up with a couple millimeters if you're lucky. I burned one at the solenoid and talked to the tech at TTi. His opinion if my tuneup ran lean it would make enough heat to burn, but when running properly it should not burn. Turns out he was right. Once I got my tune sorted out I never burned one again. Here's what my final setup looked like:
Pull the downpipe. It's not that bad on the pass side. Tight quarters for sure and ends up with a couple millimeters if you're lucky. I burned one at the solenoid and talked to the tech at TTi. His opinion if my tuneup ran lean it would make enough heat to burn, but when running properly it should not burn. Turns out he was right. Once I got my tune sorted out I never burned one again. Here's what my final setup looked like:
I'm going to also have to cut the exhaust, the exh is a welded up hack job that goes from 2.5 downpipe to 3 cat and back. Pretty ugly work.
I'm looking to go to a 3" exh soon but it looks like it might be custom built as the LG and the Kooks stuff I've seen is pretty pricey in the 1400-1700 range.
Might cut the package tray and go c6 style, the c5 exhaust routing is a bit goofy to me.
im lucky with the way my setup is, i dont have to remove anything to replace a starter.
the ls2 pan makes a huge difference along with the wastegates right off the turbo housing.
So it's one continuous pipe all the way back? That would make it tough to work on. Here's a trick we did, added vband clamps to my cats and made straight pipes for racing. Made it easy to swap for street/race setup, and also easier to work on.
im lucky with the way my setup is, i dont have to remove anything to replace a starter.
the ls2 pan makes a huge difference along with the wastegates right off the turbo housing.
The ls2 pan looks like it would free up some room but I don't think I can pull the pan with the engine in the car.
Downpipe pull I've done before, not a picnic, but with the right combination of 1/4 tools and a bit of finesse, the downpipe bolts came out ok. Some are really tight getting to them.
I'm going to try the .82 turbo housings and champion 3" downpipes down the road, but that's a bit too ambitious right now until I get the exhaust situation funded.
i pulled the ls2 pan while the engine was in the car, im sure you can do the ls1 pan aswel. just need to support the engine with a hoist, pull the cradle and then drop the pan. its a huge pain in the *** but it frees up so much room.
i pulled the ls2 pan while the engine was in the car, im sure you can do the ls1 pan aswel. just need to support the engine with a hoist, pull the cradle and then drop the pan. its a huge pain in the *** but it frees up so much room.
That Ls2 pan doesn't seem to have any downside other than I don't want to get in quite that deep right now.
True, silverado starter certainly creates more clearance along with C6 pan. Then with gates off turbine housings, can drop starter even with 3.5" downpipes
Originally Posted by Rkreigh
That Ls2 pan doesn't seem to have any downside other than I don't want to get in quite that deep right now.
There is one downside to the C6 pan.. At normal fill, oil sloshes away from pickup a bit more than C5 batwing pan. Overfilling by almost 1 quart (actually called to do so in C6 GM manual for performance driving) will help that quite a bit though.
Aren't there a few other things to consider with the truck starter? Longer bolt, electrical connector, etc?
The electrical connector is $10, you just cut off the old one from the car and solder on the new one. Yeah one bolt is different, simple trip to the hardware store as you can see in the photo I posted. Its a very simple swap.
tips for ttix starter replacement
