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I have a HCI C5Z, direct port fast 102 intake, LNC-2000, stand alone fuel system running @ 5psi with C16. Shot size around 200.
This is my plug after my last test hit yesterday. And yes I turned the car off immediately after the run and coasted then check the plugs
My AFR gage was reading 10.5 on this pull but it looks to me like its a little lean. I could see a slight pepper so I took out one degree of timing but it was getting too late to make another run.
I like to see what other opinions would be on this plug reading. Any advice would be appreciated.
Way too rich, but not necessarily at WOT.
and I see detonation going on there. Better back it down and creep up on it and get those projected plugs out of there. That's a big no-no.
Get the right plugs in there. Pull over to the side of the road where you're able to safely make a hit without putting anyone else at risk, put a fresh plug in at least one cylinder, make a full pass and shut the engine down immediately. Pull over, pull that plug, put the old plug back in and send me a pic of it.
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Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance; Sep 12, 2016 at 12:23 PM.
You should switch to a non-projected tip plug like the NGK B8EFS. The projected tip plugs tend to hold heat and cause pre-ignition. Have those plugs had any driving time on them at all?
To get an accurate reading on the plugs- you need to use a fresh set of plugs right out of the box. When you go back to the track, take a few sets of the NGK BR7EF's and B8EFS's with you- they run less than $20 per set, and are an invaluable tuning tool. Once you get to the track swap out the plugs for the new set, push the car through the lanes up to the line. Then do your burnout, your pull- and shut it down at the line and get somebody to tow/push you back to the pits. Then pull the plugs. A plug that has drive time on them is impossible to read because idling tends to make plugs look rich- and with even a few minutes of idle time it can completely throw off the way a plug reads. With the amount that you're spraying you may be on a 7 or 8 heat range, so it'd be best to start on the 8'S, and if they have no heat on them after a pull switch to the 7's.
To get an accurate reading on the plugs- you need to use a fresh set of plugs right out of the box. When you go back to the track, take a few sets of the NGK BR7EF's and B8EFS's with you- they run less than $20 per set, and are an invaluable tuning tool. Once you get to the track swap out the plugs for the new set, push the car through the lanes up to the line. Then do your burnout, your pull- and shut it down at the line and get somebody to tow/push you back to the pits. Then pull the plugs. A plug that has drive time on them is impossible to read because idling tends to make plugs look rich- and with even a few minutes of idle time it can completely throw off the way a plug reads. With the amount that you're spraying you may be on a 7 or 8 heat range, so it'd be best to start on the 8'S, and if they have no heat on them after a pull switch to the 7's.
N02 Plug reading advice?
