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Burnout on drag radials

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Old 02-14-2017, 10:06 AM
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JustinJordan
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Default Burnout on drag radials

What is the proper way to do a burnout with drag radials at the track? I have a 4L60e. I put it in first. The tires spin but don't really spin hard and heat up. I have around 400 hp. Do I need more power? Do I just need to leave the trans in 3rd and do the burnout?
Old 02-14-2017, 01:11 PM
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Rob Petyo
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Originally Posted by JustinJordan
What is the proper way to do a burnout with drag radials at the track? I have a 4L60e. I put it in first. The tires spin but don't really spin hard and heat up. I have around 400 hp. Do I need more power? Do I just need to leave the trans in 3rd and do the burnout?
Tap gas in the waterbox to clean off pebbles/rocks from the tire.

I set my line lock put it in first and hit gas pretty hard to between 5-6K then shift into second gear keeping the revs up, otherwise the tire begins to heat up and will start grabbing on you, check your mirrors to check smoke coming from both tires and press line lock again and walk away from the smoke.

Stop before getting to the staging area and put into drive and any purging and arming of N20 can be done now. slowly go into staging area to where you want to be... Shallow staging will get you a better ET but slower reaction time, a deep stage will net a slower sixty foot time but when racing this is preferred because it puts you a bit closer to the overall distance to cover.

Below was at a rental so I was going for a PB so I shallow staged. Note the shift into second gear is when they start to smoke. My tires were warm already so just did a small amount of smoke. When heating them up for the first time of the day, I stay into it a bit longer. I usually start my day at 18.5 lbs. and go up or down from there depending on track conditions. Any wheel hop - immediately get out of it. It's always best to have a spotter just to make sure "both" tires are spinning.


Last edited by Rob Petyo; 02-17-2017 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 02-14-2017, 01:32 PM
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junk c5
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I keep it simple. I dust off the tires quickly in the front of the water box then pull to the very very edge of the water box, 99% out. I have a buddy put down a little VHT then I start my burnout. I keep the trans in 3rd and the RPM's around 5k until they start to smoke then I roll out hard. No trans brake or line lock. I get on the 2 step for a few seconds to let the turbo spool and let it rip.

Last edited by junk c5; 02-14-2017 at 01:34 PM.
Old 02-16-2017, 02:24 PM
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StatmanRN
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I have found better results driving around the water box and backing in to avoid wetting the front tires, then pulling out for burnouts [with treaded tires]. It seems if you get too much ater on them in the treads or the wheel wells dripping down it tales a much longer burnout to clear it.
Old 02-17-2017, 06:33 AM
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Rkreigh
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Install a line lock. It allows you to lock the brakes on the front tires only so you can do burnouts MUCH easier.

Easier on the tranny and brakes too. I come around the water, back up and spin briefly, roll out, set the line lock, tranny in first, bring up the revs and spin, shift into second, and come out.

Don't need to kill them and do any john force stuff.

Also get a temp gun (cheap) so you can check the heat in the tires to improve your technique.

Just get them hot, too hot, and the rubber gets a bit greasy and you won't 60 ft as well.

Any feedback on what you all think the optimal temp for drag radials and slicks are? I just spin them at about 4k and come out of the wet part of the track and get them to "smoke for a few seconds" and I usually hook pretty good!

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