frc00ny

I am getting ready to install a small blower cam into my 2000 stock bottom end ls1. I have an older style A&A Procharger kit with a 3.85 pulley, 60lb injectors, Lg big 3 exhaust, and a Cartec flip drive.


I am also doing headers and a fuel system at the same time.

Will i need extensions for the O2 sensors with kooks headers?

How much fuel pump will I need if I switch over to a return style system with a regulator up front? I want to stick to a single in tank pump for simplicity and safety. If the pump quits I want the engine to quit so I don't run it lean. I was leaning toward a racetronics hotwire kit or something similar also. Oh and I want it boost referenced also.

I don't have any outrageous power goals in mind. I just want to make these upgrades for now and move onto other things in the car. When I got it tuned, I was living in A.Z. and 91 was all that was available. My tuner said I was running out of fuel, so he kept the tune conservative as a result. It made 479 hp and 429 tq at that time though.

I also bought the billet double roller from jeg's. I think I remember reading somewhere that I will need to machine the cover for clearance?

Turpid porpoise

The fuel pump will be determined by your power goal. A single 255 with a boost a pump can get you around 550-600. I've seen guys run a walboro 450 in tank but you can't use the entire OEM fuel pump bucket.

As for the timing chain, Bret's(blownbluez06) elite chain drive is the best I've seen and I run it in my turbo LS2.

neutron82

send the double roller back and get Bret's chain in my opinion

frc00ny

I have not bought any parts for the fuel system yet. so what i was thinking was a single in-tank pump, running to a 97-98 style fuel filter. Then to -6an line to fuel rail input. Then a -4 an adapter to -6 line mounted at the schrader valve, to a fuel pressure regulator mounted near the brake booster. And then use the original fuel line as a return line back to the tank. I also want to power the pump with a hotwire kit.

I am just unsure what extra fittings to buy to match the an lines up to the fuel rails, and of course the adapters for the fuel lines.

I may look into sending the timing chain that I bought back in order to get the one that you guys recommended. I have the ability to clearance the cover just not sure that i want to. Especially if i can get a really good single roller. I need a bunch of other part so maybe Jeg's will be easy to deal with.
I did do alot of searching on the fuel system questions but didn't get any part numbers that google would recognize.
Thank you guys for the reply's.

frc00ny

Is the schrader valve -4 an?
Are the fuel line quick connects the same as what Jeg's catalog refers to as LT1 style. I was not able to find any other style fuel injection fittings in their catalog?
Summit has the Walbro 450 But I still will need to source a new filter sock for it.
Thanks again
Kevin

BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance

I can get you the pump, lines and fittings for you. I stock all that. PM me if I can help and I'll give you my cell#. I can save you money in the design of your system alone.


As for the timing set: I've been inside countless motors and always been surprised at how much slack is in the double chains after, even a little use. I used to have the mentality that two has to be stronger than one, but eventually realized how much smaller the individual parts are on the double row sets and billet gears isn't where the help is needed in the design. This is part of what inspired me to come out with my Elite Chain.

silver408z

You cant go wrong working with Bret (blownbluez06). He can help figure out what you need and how to set it up. He has my car and doing a big build on it right now.

BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance

Thanks!
We spoke on the phone for a bit and are going to run some tests before we proceed because he shouldn't be running into fuel supply issues at this power level. Due to frequently discovering and seeing others also dealing with voltage issues at the pump, caused by various issues with the factory wiring from end to end, my first suspicion is that if there is truly an issue, it's a result of something in that arena.

Bret

frc00ny

I had to work today. But I did pull the wheel of and check voltage at the plug. I didn't probe the wires, so I didn't check with the engine running. But it was less than 12 volts, and if I put the tester on the fuel sending unit and then ground to the frame I get a reading of almost 1 volt. Not really sure if that means anything but it makes me think that I have a ground problem. I am pretty handy but automotive electrical systems are extremely complicated. And not really my wheelhouse. But with Bret's help I will get this sorted out and post results so anyone else that is having the same symptoms will be able to fix their cars also.
Kevin

frc00ny

I had to work today. But I did pull the wheel of and check voltage at the plug. I didn't probe the wires, so I didn't check with the engine running. But it was less than 12 volts, and if I put the tester on the fuel sending unit and then ground to the frame I get a reading of almost 1 volt. Not really sure if that means anything but it makes me think that I have a ground problem. I am pretty handy but automotive electrical systems are extremely complicated. And not really my wheelhouse. But with Bret's help I will get this sorted out and post results so anyone else that is having the same symptoms will be able to fix their cars also.
Kevin

frc00ny

I did some quick testing yesterday before work.
I am getting 14.85 volts from the alternator
14.7 at the battery
14.66 at the power lug going into the fuse box in the battery compartment.
I won't have time to play with it any more until Thursday night. But I am going to start cleaning the starter terminals and ground connections then.
Kevin

neutron82

do you have a power wire running off the alternator to the pump?... if not you should get one... Bret can make you one of those as well or there are some other companies out there that offer them

frc00ny

So this is what I have I done ad found so far.
I sent the timing chain back to jegs and am ordering Bret's timing chain.
I cleaned the grounds that i could get to with out completely dissembling the car.
I cleaned the power wires at the starter.
None of the connections had any real corrosion on them. but i rarely drive it in the rain. It is a garage queen.
The voltages at at the fuse box improved after cleaning the starter wires as Bret said they would. So it was definitely worth doing.
I am still getting .5 volts when i put my multi-meter on the sending unit hat and then to ground with the engine running. Is this normal?
Any way i am going to do the hotwire kit this winter when i take everything apart for the headers, fuel system and cam swap.
I just want to thank all of you guys for you help. And Especially Bret as he Has taken time to help me sort out problems with the electrical on the phone when he is still running a Business, which is no easy task in its self. That is more than just good customer service.

Bret i am sending you a pm

romandian

are you saying you have voltage on the fuel hat (where the three fuel lines come out)?

Turpid porpoise

Why are you probing the fuel pump wires? Are you having issues with the fuel pump? If the pump is turning working, you are getting 12V at the pump at idle and your fuel level gauge is working then everything is working and you should stop overthinking it.

Doesn't mean that you shouldn't do a hotwire kit but if it ain't broke then don't fix it.

frc00ny

Yes that is what is happening.

This seems wrong to me. But I don't know everything. This is why Bret is having me check all the grounds and clean the wires to and from the starter. I still have to test the fuel pump with the car fully warmed up and as much electrical load as possible. Today I worked all day and then took the wife out to nice dinner with friends, so my evening in the garage didn't happen, but at least I don't have to sleep out there!

frc00ny

That is true, but is was not getting a full 12 volts to the pump. Bret thinks it may even be worse once there is load on it and everything is fully warmed up and drawing power also. (cooling fans, head lights, ac and such)

When I talked to Bret on the phone I also told him about the headlights dimming when I was decelerating coming up to a stop sign. But the car appears to have stopped doing that after I Changed out my hazard switch and took out a fm modulator that I had installed to play music from my phone. not sure if either thing had anything to with it or not, but it didn't dim the last time I drove it at night.

So as long as the pump and wiring is good, and what I mentioned in the above post is actually normal then I am going to do just what you and others have suggested, hot wire it. But if not I will upgrade the pump also.
Kevin

Turpid porpoise

If you want to go above and beyond you can do a "big 3" upgrade and increase the size of your alternator and ground wires. May help out your charge system and reduce the chance of dimming lights and what not.

Echo97vette

Yes, the schrader valve end is a -4. I have a set up very similar to how you've described. For the sake of simplicity, I kept the factory feed and am running a -6 return from my Aeromotive AFPR. I'm only shooting for 600-650 on pump/meth.

I haven't decided 100% on my fuel pump. The Walbro 450 is a nice unit but requires cutting the stock bucket. DW300 or the AEM 320 seem like decent alternatives to the standard 255 and should supply plenty of fuel for a stock bottom end without butchering your bucket. I'm not sure if they're compatible with the venturi system. But I like the idea of running one pump.