When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was on run 4 at a 1/2 mile event and cylinder 2 let go at 177mph. AFR was good on the run on. 116 octane at about 22lbs of boost and plenty of advance.... First 3 runs were all 181 with horrible traction.
Gouge is pretty deep in the cylinder wall, now I just have to figure out what direction to go to fix it. RHS block.
I'm running 2 -10 breather lines and it still easily popped the dipstick out and covered everything with oil. Even had an oil fire down on the header by the motor mount I had to put out.
Knock sensors are on the side of block and do work (desensitized some from stock). No knock on the run, Car was about 6000 rpm so didn't hear any but power...
Yes, plan to send injectors off to have checked and cleaned for good measure. There wasn't a blip of the AFR changing before or while it happened. AFR on that bank went to from 11.7 to 10.9 after it happened and before I let off the gas.
Re-sleeving recommendations or thoughts?
Had to granny the starts for traction, tried my drag tires and street tires. Looking back at the logs I wasn't able to go to full throttle until over 100mph and was still searching for traction.
I did basically the same thing at 1/2 mile on my last motor on cyl #1 from a bunk local tuner putting too much timing on my setup. my piston even looked the same.
always fun blowing a hole in the block at >170mph!
I did basically the same thing at 1/2 mile on my last motor on cyl #1 from a bunk local tuner putting too much timing on my setup. my piston even looked the same.
always fun blowing a hole in the block at >170mph!
I tuning it myself, I was high on timing but had been at this level several runs and was running 116 octane.
What was the compression ratio and how much timing? Did the head gasket show any signs of compromise?
Motor is set up as 9.6, I was running 23deg at about 22 lbs boost on 116 octane, AFR was 11.7 logging both banks, IAT was 120f with meth injection. Its a lot of timing from what I've read around on this forum but have talked to a very reputable tuner about running 116 and have run close to this tune several runs with no issues at a lot higher IATs. I don't mind pushing the motor, just didn't really want this to happen though You don't really hear much posted about that much timing on a blown motor... I'm curious what feed back I'll get
Head gasket looks fine, injector is the best bet. I should get those off this week and post up what I find (ID1000).
Originally Posted by Rkreigh
while the o2 might be showing a good afr it looks like an injector went south and that hole leaned out to the point of blow torch
a blown hg can do that but it usually doesn't tear up the block like that!
yowsa that block is totally defective, you need to send it to me, I'll cover the shipping or come pick it up
sleeve it and you'll be back in biz
I'd also look at an 8 channel wide band or egr setup
let's you see what's going on in each cyl that one was NOT happy
I'd love to have the 8 channel or egt setup but I'm running just the stock computer currently.
All the rest on the passenger side are fine and the driver side plugs all look fine, haven't pulled that head yet though.
I'm working with Bret (Blownblue) sorting through what I'll do for the rebuild. Heavily thinking about doing E85 that could help the car stay a little cooler on the 1/2 mile runs. I think there are 3 stations local now.
sorry for the loss, though it is good data for you and others. thanks for posting. subscribed to see the injector results. what power level you think this was?
Motor is set up as 9.6, I was running 23deg at about 22 lbs boost on 116 octane, AFR was 11.7 logging both banks, IAT was 120f with meth injection. Its a lot of timing from what I've read around on this forum but have talked to a very reputable tuner about running 116 and have run close to this tune several runs with no issues at a lot higher IATs. I don't mind pushing the motor, just didn't really want this to happen though You don't really hear much posted about that much timing on a blown motor... I'm curious what feed back I'll get
Head gasket looks fine, injector is the best bet. I should get those off this week and post up what I find (ID1000).
I'd love to have the 8 channel or egt setup but I'm running just the stock computer currently.
All the rest on the passenger side are fine and the driver side plugs all look fine, haven't pulled that head yet though.
I'm working with Bret (Blownblue) sorting through what I'll do for the rebuild. Heavily thinking about doing E85 that could help the car stay a little cooler on the 1/2 mile runs. I think there are 3 stations local now.
I think the e85 conversion would be just what you need!
I have a haltech s2000 with flex fuel sensor and I need to ride down to Tx too.
I'm sorting out the fuel system and trying to piece it together
if you are interested in the haltech with 8 channel egt let me know.
sorry for the loss, though it is good data for you and others. thanks for posting. subscribed to see the injector results. what power level you think this was?
Haven't been on the dyno for years and have made a lot of changes since. I'm thinking in the 1000 range.
Originally Posted by Rkreigh
I think the e85 conversion would be just what you need!
I have a haltech s2000 with flex fuel sensor and I need to ride down to Tx too.
I'm sorting out the fuel system and trying to piece it together
if you are interested in the haltech with 8 channel egt let me know.
I'd love to have the haltech on my car but timing isn't right...
Motor is set up as 9.6, I was running 23deg at about 22 lbs boost on 116 octane, AFR was 11.7 logging both banks, IAT was 120f with meth injection. Its a lot of timing from what I've read around on this forum but have talked to a very reputable tuner about running 116 and have run close to this tune several runs with no issues at a lot higher IATs. I don't mind pushing the motor, just didn't really want this to happen though You don't really hear much posted about that much timing on a blown motor... I'm curious what feed back I'll get
Head gasket looks fine, injector is the best bet. I should get those off this week and post up what I find (ID1000).
Thanks for the details. I hate to see the engine failure happen but it's always a possibility when pushing things. It's hard to say what might have happened and I'll try not to elaborate too much until you find out how the injectors test. If that injector proves to be down on flow, then that would be your smoking gun obviously.
I typically like to use the power adder to add power and stay conservative with timing and fuel but even then, things can go wrong. In my case, the fuse to an external fuel pump failed and the rings were hurt while on the dyno. Earlier this year, the reference line to the wastegate came loose which caused the engine to see 35 psi when it was only tuned for ~ 22psi. The end result wasn’t attractive.
In this case, the timing and air fuel ratio seem to be a little aggressive to me. I know most people may disagree and some people probably would recommend you are right where you need to be. I'm not saying it's wrong and you are probably getting MBEP from the engine but when you tune it to this point, everything has to be right every run. You didn't mention if you were running straight 116 or a mixture of 93 and 116. “Right every run” means no hiccups. The stock PCM can't have any hiccups in what it commands, the voltage needs to be spot on so the injectors and pump can do exactly what they are supposed to do. The meth injection system has to deliver. We are all depending on lots of electrical and mechanical systems and controls to do exactly what they are supposed to do multiple times per second.
When I was starting out with forced induction on the vette and not tuning it myself, the car made ~ 525 rwhp but had some audible knock. I took it back to the tuner and he took away timing and added fuel. I figured the car would probably make less power. It ended up making right about the same peak numbers and didn’t feel much different. This was the 1st time that I had the realization concerning the bell curve and how it related to power. In this case with the stock engine, there was either too much timing or not enough fuel or maybe both. Was there some combination of fuel and spark that might have netted another 10 to 15 hp and no knock? Maybe there was but I’m not interested in finding it now with +1000hp based on the type of events I go to and how much it costs at this level if an engine fails. At this point, I don’t mind giving up 50hp or maybe even 100hp if it means the engine is more reliable and can tolerate slightly imperfect conditions.
Anyway, sorry if I rambled on and good luck on finding the cause and your pending rebuild. Judging by your numbers the car is working well and making great power. They are very fun to drive at that power level.
Thanks for the details. I hate to see the engine failure happen but it's always a possibility when pushing things. It's hard to say what might have happened and I'll try not to elaborate too much until you find out how the injectors test. If that injector proves to be down on flow, then that would be your smoking gun obviously.
I typically like to use the power adder to add power and stay conservative with timing and fuel but even then, things can go wrong. In my case, the fuse to an external fuel pump failed and the rings were hurt while on the dyno. Earlier this year, the reference line to the wastegate came loose which caused the engine to see 35 psi when it was only tuned for ~ 22psi. The end result wasn’t attractive.
In this case, the timing and air fuel ratio seem to be a little aggressive to me. I know most people may disagree and some people probably would recommend you are right where you need to be. I'm not saying it's wrong and you are probably getting MBEP from the engine but when you tune it to this point, everything has to be right every run. You didn't mention if you were running straight 116 or a mixture of 93 and 116. “Right every run” means no hiccups. The stock PCM can't have any hiccups in what it commands, the voltage needs to be spot on so the injectors and pump can do exactly what they are supposed to do. The meth injection system has to deliver. We are all depending on lots of electrical and mechanical systems and controls to do exactly what they are supposed to do multiple times per second.
When I was starting out with forced induction on the vette and not tuning it myself, the car made ~ 525 rwhp but had some audible knock. I took it back to the tuner and he took away timing and added fuel. I figured the car would probably make less power. It ended up making right about the same peak numbers and didn’t feel much different. This was the 1st time that I had the realization concerning the bell curve and how it related to power. In this case with the stock engine, there was either too much timing or not enough fuel or maybe both. Was there some combination of fuel and spark that might have netted another 10 to 15 hp and no knock? Maybe there was but I’m not interested in finding it now with +1000hp based on the type of events I go to and how much it costs at this level if an engine fails. At this point, I don’t mind giving up 50hp or maybe even 100hp if it means the engine is more reliable and can tolerate slightly imperfect conditions.
Anyway, sorry if I rambled on and good luck on finding the cause and your pending rebuild. Judging by your numbers the car is working well and making great power. They are very fun to drive at that power level.
I agree with everything you said. I made the decision to "push" things to try to trap a better speed. So many things have to line up just right when you want to push to see what your car can do or get that little bit more and the smallest little issue can destroy a motor. I do not think I will be as much of a risk taker with my next motor (timing and AFR), or at least for awhile... I plan to get some extra HP from the next build in ways other than adding timing or AFR. That was all I had left I could do with this motor to try to get more short of a rebuild or bigger blower. It just sucks my cylinder wall got gouged so deep and the extra cost
Meth yes, 15 and 10 nozzle. I was logging meth pressure so I know it was working. Injectors are off being checked.
For a car like yours I command a max of 11.2 so i think 11.7 is lean for your boost
for the timing are you commanding 23 degrees all the way or just in high rpm ?
23 high for the mid range even with C16 fuel
11-03-2017, 03:00 PM
Motor carnage
