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Twin to single turned turned full build

 
Old 03-16-2018, 06:02 PM
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killacarter3
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Default Twin to single turned turned full build

The story is as old as time. Start out with the intent to replace one thing, find a million other things. That being said here is the low down on the car. Old set up was a built ls2 with stock heads, aps twin turbo kit with the original(smaller) turbos, stock pump with a BAP, and on 93 oct. The car was a lot of fun with 602 and 597 on waste gate 7lbs.. BUT always had issues with leaking and burning oil. After changing things around for about 6 months and getting no where I said no more scavenge set ups and bye bye to the aps kit.








I sold the kit and began piecing together a single turbo set up with the goal of 800 on pump/low boost and 1000+ on everything its got. Realizing the motor had issues at 600whp I decided to be patient and dive in.. dropping the cradles and pulling the motor for a full rebuild, new clutch, and fuel system.





Fresh build and beginning of fab work.

Last edited by killacarter3; 03-16-2018 at 06:20 PM.
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Old 03-16-2018, 06:15 PM
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Fab work completed for the new kit and mount for the turbo.



Putting her back together









I just want to give a HUGE shout out to Ls3c5 here on the forum. I messaged him at the beginning of the build with fuel system questions due to his similar set up and this guy has been a great help. He even drove an hour from the Tampa area to help me button her up and he's coming again tomorrow to hopefully be there for IGNITION!

The car is getting close and I will update on the build info and more pics soon.

Last edited by killacarter3; 03-16-2018 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 03-25-2018, 11:49 AM
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Iím glad I could help out. The car is badass and I canít wait to see it on the street doing workkkkkk! Let me know if you need anything else. Keep us posted
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Old 09-19-2018, 01:01 PM
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Updates: The car is back together and running... kind of It was base mapped but now I'm having issues getting it to run. It will fire up but immediately shut off like the map sensor isnt calibrated correctly? Any ideas? FL2K is right around the corner and my tuner is swamped...

Also, would having the new zr1 map sensor mounted remotely cause issues with the readings? It is 10" of hose souced from the passenger side nipple behind the throttle body.

Last edited by killacarter3; 09-20-2018 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 09-21-2018, 10:42 AM
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Update: the issue was the throttle position sensor. Once I started the car the HUD was showing low oil pressure and it was less than 10psi on the gauge. Shut it down and went to buy a mechanical gauge. Installed mechanical gauge using oil sandwhich plate next to the oil filter. Started the car and the mechanical gauge reads the same. Going to drain oil and cut open filtet tonight.
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:08 AM
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Old 09-21-2018, 11:09 AM
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KInda simular initally to me, tired of twins and now starting a single. Good luck getting your goals. I had 848rwhp/938rwtq with the twins and would break all kinds of misc junk. So makesure your fuel system and driveline are ready.

Last edited by JoeyG; 09-21-2018 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 09-21-2018, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by killacarter3 View Post
The story is as old as time. Start out with the intent to replace one thing, find a million other things. That being said here is the low down on the car. Old set up was a built ls2 with stock heads, aps twin turbo kit with the original(smaller) turbos, stock pump with a BAP, and on 93 oct. The car was a lot of fun with 602 and 597 on waste gate 7lbs.. BUT always had issues with leaking and burning oil. After changing things around for about 6 months and getting no where I said no more scavenge set ups and bye bye to the aps kit.








I sold the kit and began piecing together a single turbo set up with the goal of 800 on pump/low boost and 1000+ on everything its got. Realizing the motor had issues at 600whp I decided to be patient and dive in.. dropping the cradles and pulling the motor for a full rebuild, new clutch, and fuel system.





Fresh build and beginning of fab work.
I understand the issues with the APS kit in its original form. I finally figured out a way to plumb the scavenge system to stop the burnt oil smell and smoking and switched to SD tuning as well as larger 6266 precision turbos to get the power I want. Nice build you have going keep us posted.
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Old 09-22-2018, 06:23 PM
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Pulled the fuel pump fuse and removed the oil filter. Cranked the car over for 3-5 seconds and no oil is flowing out of the filter port..

Is this indication of a bad oil pump/stuck barbell valve?
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Old 09-23-2018, 11:16 AM
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I would drop the pan and check the the pick up tube. Maybe the pick up tube screen could be clogged or o ring is damaged. Also you would now if you have bearing material in their.
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Old 09-23-2018, 09:50 PM
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Dropped pan. No shavings and no pickup tube blockage. Can't get to the o ring.
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Old 09-24-2018, 10:08 AM
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Dam, guess the front cover is next. I had a oil psi problem with my new build and went through all this. My issue was a push rod wasn't in place and pushed a lifter out causing the oil to bleed. Also check the plug next to the oil pump. Will suck if it's the rear bar bell.
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Old 09-24-2018, 11:09 AM
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How is your down pipe exiting? Straight dump, fender exit?
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeyG View Post
How is your down pipe exiting? Straight dump, fender exit?
Straight down dump for now. 4"
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Old 11-21-2018, 05:42 PM
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After not opening my garage door for a month out of frustration, the lack of oil pressure was traced to the oil pick up tube. Yes, I forgot to re install a new o ring...

Progress pictures and updates after the holidays

Last edited by killacarter3; 11-21-2018 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 11-22-2018, 12:36 PM
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Nice build, watching your build to get ideas. I'm in Orlando as well, just have a cam only white FRC, and thinking of going with the Huron kit so far.....
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Old 11-26-2018, 12:33 PM
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Thanks man. If I could do it all over I would most likely save a little extra and just buy a twin kit. They have come a long way
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Old 01-15-2019, 02:44 PM
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Unfortunately more set backs has it back to sitting. While breaking in the clutch during stop and go city traffic I found an oil leak that looks like a rear main seal leak. On top of that there is a small amount of oil coming out of the intercooler. This is while driving around with no hard acceleration/making any boost. What could be some causes of this? I'm leaning towards rings....
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Old 01-15-2019, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by killacarter3 View Post
Unfortunately more set backs has it back to sitting. While breaking in the clutch during stop and go city traffic I found an oil leak that looks like a rear main seal leak. On top of that there is a small amount of oil coming out of the intercooler. This is while driving around with no hard acceleration/making any boost. What could be some causes of this? I'm leaning towards rings....
Did you use RTV on the oil pan where the front and rear covers meet the oil pan sealing surface? Those could be possible leak points as well as the oil pressure sensor.

Do you have a catch can plumbed in?
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Old 01-15-2019, 03:57 PM
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Yes and I just replaced the sending unit behind the intake manifold. I will check again. I have -10 bungs from each valve cover into a breather and then a catch can mounted in the pcv. I will post an engine bay picture when I get home at 7 tonight.
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