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As far as the cowl cutting, in one of the Leroy videos it showed an angle of the cowl cut that I was able to pause on and get a look after they mounted the blower. I'll try and find it when I have time. Also I figured even if I got rid of the blower down the line or sold the car a new windshield/wiper trim could be bought and installed to cover up most of the visible hole then possibly a rubber flap installed more on the firewall side which would make it way less of an eyesore.
Thanks alot JumboShrimp for that picture though, that offers even more insight. On the Intake, I currently have a Vararam but was thinking of possibly buying an elbow or flexible elbow to run the intake back to the center. Not sure yet though as I want as least bends as possible. Also im noticing the power steering reservoir will need to be relocated or the bracket bent if thats whats shown in the picture.
As far as the build, my progress has become super slow, Im subscribing to your thread now ha, cause you may have it built and running before me at this point. One reason being I work 7 days a week so its very hard to find the time to do anything really, second reason I made the VERY poor financial decision of getting into a relationship with a female who has a kid and have heavily become their financial crutch, which has taken away from things that aren't necessities such as "Racecar Fund".
That aside I havent really made much progress other then creating a new build plan. Being I don't want my car down an entire year I picked up on the project again last week and purchased a block. My timeline will most likely be, new motor built and running by mid summer, LSA hopefully just before the end of the year.
ANYWAY, I have changed routes again. I finally pulled the trigger and got a 6.0 LQ4 iron block last week. I plan on putting together a forged rotating assembly for it next after I have it looked over and refreshed, new cam bearings etc. I may keep the stock crank and just get forged pistons and rods since I hear the stock crank can hold 800hp well. Also I got rid of my 243 heads and when the block is complete I plan on getting either GMPP LS3 heads or ported/built ls3 heads reason being they flow just as well but mainly I wouldn't require the adapter to fit the LSA lid which could save me some height and clearance, possibly resulting in less cowl cutting or not as aggressive of a hood if I decided not to just cut my oem. Swapping my TSP cam for a Boost cam and swapping my underdrive pulley for a full size again since ill be building a solid block, no need to bleed boost.
However, I did want to run the ZL1 lid but I believe the lines for the ZL1 lid as opposed to the V come out of the rear of the blower so, Im not sure how that will affect cowl clearance or additional cutting, If it was tall enough to clear the cowl it wouldn't be a problem, but with the picture you provided it looks like I may not have a choice. Either way until my new block and heads are built it isn't a top concern. I figure when the motor is back in, Possibly I can borrow my buddies blower and lid to mock up on my engine to see fitment with cowl and ZL1 lines.
GB16... Lots-O-Stuff going on there!
You will prolly beat me in the build race. I have a Street Rod to finish before I dig into the LSA swap. I have a friend that works for GM on the Vette team - he has a BADASS CTS-V wagon and swears that the V lid makes more power than the Z lid. I believe hm, he knows how to MAKE power but - from what I've learned - because the V lines are in the back you have to lose your wipers. Not for ME! I'm OK with cutting a drip rail (That's all it really is, Mr Black). I don't know if you can 180 the lid and brick to use the V lid (it is lower). I do know that the ZL1 fuel rails have been flipped 180* - and still work.
The pic shows the PS tank just hanging - it needs moved and secured. Most of the G8 guys that LSA swap put it next to the Brake Fluid tank. I'm not sure where to put it on a C5. That will be a Game Day decision for me.
I'm new to this but an Old Skool Hot Rodder. Are you sure you can put LS3 heads on a Gen III Block? I thought the Bolt pattern was different. Sure would be nice to NOT have to use Cathedral - Rectangle adapters.
How did you get a convertible Z06? Or are the cooling vents just stick-on? What's the little square behind the Cooling duct - I've seen that before but never asked. My 03 Z doesn't have em.
7 Days work per week?! Are you CRAZY! I'll keep my mouth shut on the GF thing but if you work THAT hard and EARN the money - you should get to keep some for...YOU. Jus Say'n.
It'll be a solid year till I really get into this project - still sourcing parts and learning.
I'll be back!!
my PS tank is mounted to a bracket that uses the TB bolts (for my TVS)... not quite sure for the LSA fitment but could be a start
the 6.0 blocks can run LS3 heads. the GTO dudes did it all the time, and it'd save from using the adapters (that i've seen guys have trouble tuning due to disrupted fuel atomization flow... depending on the design)
can't tell from the pic, but my guess is that square's a GM 'chicklet' badge they used on a number of models around 2009-2010 timeframe.
Are you sure you can put LS3 heads on a Gen III Block? I thought the Bolt pattern was different.
Yes, the bolt pattern is the same for all LS motors. The only difference among all block/heads is the length of the head bolts, in 2004 they changed from a combination of long and short bolts to all short bolts.
GB16... Lots-O-Stuff going on there!
You will prolly beat me in the build race. I have a Street Rod to finish before I dig into the LSA swap. I have a friend that works for GM on the Vette team - he has a BADASS CTS-V wagon and swears that the V lid makes more power than the Z lid. I believe hm, he knows how to MAKE power but - from what I've learned - because the V lines are in the back you have to lose your wipers. Not for ME! I'm OK with cutting a drip rail (That's all it really is, Mr Black). I don't know if you can 180 the lid and brick to use the V lid (it is lower). I do know that the ZL1 fuel rails have been flipped 180* - and still work.
The pic shows the PS tank just hanging - it needs moved and secured. Most of the G8 guys that LSA swap put it next to the Brake Fluid tank. I'm not sure where to put it on a C5. That will be a Game Day decision for me.
I'm new to this but an Old Skool Hot Rodder. Are you sure you can put LS3 heads on a Gen III Block? I thought the Bolt pattern was different. Sure would be nice to NOT have to use Cathedral - Rectangle adapters.
How did you get a convertible Z06? Or are the cooling vents just stick-on? What's the little square behind the Cooling duct - I've seen that before but never asked. My 03 Z doesn't have em.
7 Days work per week?! Are you CRAZY! I'll keep my mouth shut on the GF thing but if you work THAT hard and EARN the money - you should get to keep some for...YOU. Jus Say'n.
It'll be a solid year till I really get into this project - still sourcing parts and learning.
I'll be back!!
Sorry I misspoke, meant to say I wanted the ZL1 lid so I wouldnt have to worrry about clearance with lines coming out the front rather then the rear like the V lid. Same thought for the powersteering reservoir, wont really know until the lid is on but im sure a bracket can be made or re-purposed elsewhere not to far from the rack once TB and intake have all been decided and installed.
Yes the LS3 heads will fit the block so should lower the height of the overall motor some without using the adapter, and I'll take every inch I can get ha.
This is not a true Z06 convertible but all the mods are real, Front break ducts and Z06 screen are functional the rear Z06 brake ducts and screen are also funtional and cut into the body not stick on. I also have Z06 Trans, Diff, Heads, and a few other things. Mainly missing Z06 suspention, brakes, FR and small other details. The badge behind the vents are indeed "chiclet" badges which where used on C6s and a few newer GM cars. Mine do not have the GM logo however they are like the C5R Jake racing skull as are my fender badges, and interior pieces.
Yes I really want this project done in a year tops, longest ive had my car down has been 6 months and I'm starting to wish I didnt tear the car down till I got all the parts in first to heavily reduce down time, but I figured sooner I tore it down, the sooner I could commit to the project fully. Hoping to get back on track soon. Next thing on the list is to buy a forged rotating assembly then send it and the block out to a shop to be balanced and bearings replaced, then on to the heads.
I have the motor aspect figured out and alot of the LSA, what I still need to figure out is what I will be doing for fuel. I almost bought a Gen 4 LY6 with harness and ecu and was going to use it to add a flex fuel sensor so I could run E85 and pump gas but scrapped that plan. I dont want an E only car so I may just run pump gas and meth for now.
Originally Posted by _zebra
my PS tank is mounted to a bracket that uses the TB bolts (for my TVS)... not quite sure for the LSA fitment but could be a start
the 6.0 blocks can run LS3 heads. the GTO dudes did it all the time, and it'd save from using the adapters (that i've seen guys have trouble tuning due to disrupted fuel atomization flow... depending on the design)
can't tell from the pic, but my guess is that square's a GM 'chicklet' badge they used on a number of models around 2009-2010 timeframe.
Yeah may be able to slim down the existing bracket and attach at least one of the mounting holes somewhere near TB or Alternator. You are also correct on the "chicklets" mine look like below except I matted them out.
cool
and save the cash on z06 brakes... the only difference was paint & pads. i opted for C6 z51 brackets & rotors for an actual performance bump without buying new wheels
Yes, the bolt pattern is the same for all LS motors. The only difference among all block/heads is the length of the head bolts, in 2004 they changed from a combination of long and short bolts to all short bolts.
I love this place - learn SO much from Yinz (Go Stillers!) I could swear there was a reason you couldn't swap heads. Maybe not bolt pattern - Maybe Bore size? This has me really thinking... I know that the Adapters (Cathedral to Rectangle) are not the best solution but I already own them. My research tells me that LS3 heads are 'better' than 243's. I have access to ported 243's but my Son has to give em up - he knows I want em but he 'needs' them on the LS1 swapped Mazda. He's a tough nut to crack though.
For those that have PD'd an LS6, What is the best stock head to use? Or just stick with the 243's with no P&P? The Phenolic spacer / adapters that I got (Olson Kustom Works) with my kit WILL lift the whole thing a LOT.
Why do you all do this to me...? !
Zebra. Could we see some pics of your engine bay? Or a post to a link that has some. Seems like you have this figured out - why re-invent more wheels?
Last edited by JumboShrimp; 02-20-2019 at 07:57 PM.
Reason: Asked for Pics...
i believe it's 'cause the LS3 heads are designed for 4"+ bore... meaning you can't run them on LS1/6 or smaller. your 6.0 will be fine.
i swapped my stock 853s for ported & bigger-valved 243s, but mine's a 5.7. additionally, the LSA blower is designed for the L92/76 heads, so it seems like better all around to use those if you can.
no pics of what you want because my car's still at Bret's until a couple others get did... but space is a commodity under the C5 hood, so if you ain't gotta go taller, i'd avoid it - but it all depends on what hood you're running. you can also put spacers in the front cradle bolts to raise the frame/body around the engine by that amount & subsequently adjust the ride height bolts to compensate.
Subscribed for updates! I’m going with the Ctsv lid on my lsa swap... but that’s not on my vette. I wonder if you could do Hinson motor mounts and get a tiny more room so you aren’t cutting up the hood as much
i believe it's 'cause the LS3 heads are designed for 4"+ bore... meaning you can't run them on LS1/6 or smaller. your 6.0 will be fine.
.
See, This is why I'm confused. I have an 03 Z06. It has a 5.7 LS6. I'm pretty sure I can't run the LS3 heads. Not without a TON of work. Might as well get a crate engine at that point. Or, is my head still in the clouds somewhere?
Like I said - OLD SKOOL. I like to open a hood and see dual quads on a tunnel ram. The LS1 Mazda swap really opened up a 'Whole Nuther' world for me and I gotta a LOT to learn.
See, This is why I'm confused. I have an 03 Z06. It has a 5.7 LS6. I'm pretty sure I can't run the LS3 heads. Not without a TON of work. Might as well get a crate engine at that point. Or, is my head still in the clouds somewhere?
Like I said - OLD SKOOL. I like to open a hood and see dual quads on a tunnel ram. The LS1 Mazda swap really opened up a 'Whole Nuther' world for me and I gotta a LOT to learn.
No, you can not run the LS3 heads on the LS6. You could sell the LS6, buy an iron 6.0, install LS3 heads and come fairly close to breaking even as long as you don't fall victim to the "while I'm in there" mentality.
Subscribed for updates! I’m going with the Ctsv lid on my lsa swap... but that’s not on my vette. I wonder if you could do Hinson motor mounts and get a tiny more room so you aren’t cutting up the hood as much
That G8 lsa swap
As far as height, I know you can
Run Spacers between subframe and body
Run Hinson shorter Mounts
Run No Adapters
Shave cooling fins off Lid
I opted not do any though, I dont want to mess with the geometry of the car that much, especially since I dont have coilovers to correct this. I got standard Hinson Mounts and just heat wrapped them so they wont warp. Hope your LSA G8 comes together soon. Love the pearl white C5 build
As far as height, I know you can
Run Spacers between subframe and body
Run Hinson shorter Mounts
Run No Adapters
Shave cooling fins off Lid
I opted not do any though, I dont want to mess with the geometry of the car that much, especially since I dont have coilovers to correct this. I got standard Hinson Mounts and just heat wrapped them so they wont warp. Hope your LSA G8 comes together soon. Love the pearl white C5 build
I have some solid billet aluminum mounts I made in both standard height and 3/8" lower, I can send you a set and you'll never have to worry about warping.
No, you can not run the LS3 heads on the LS6. You could sell the LS6, buy an iron 6.0, install LS3 heads and come fairly close to breaking even as long as you don't fall victim to the "while I'm in there" mentality.
That the route im taking. Sold my P/Pd 243 heads to get GMPP LS3 heads, getting rid of my LS1 5.7 and got the LQ4 iron 6.0 already, TSP Tourquer 2 cam will be swapped for a TSP boost cam, ATI underdrive pulley swapped for a standard ATI. Everything is pretty much the same amount for breaking even. Basically trading out parts little by little. Should be able to tell my TPIS intake manifold for an LS3 also IF I dont just skip that and put that towards LSA kit money. Im thinking the only thing I'll have to come out of pocket for will be the forged rotating assembly and small stuff like gaskets other then the LSA itself. Everything else so far has been pretty break even on the swap. But I think an Iron 6.0 with LS3 heads will be a better platform and yield better results then had I kept my LS1 aluminium 5.7 and P/Pd 243 heads. Wish I knew what the owner of the LSA C5 pictured above was running so I could compare dyno numbers after finished.
I have some solid billet aluminum mounts I made in both standard height and 3/8" lower, I can send you a set and you'll never have to worry about warping.
This was something I had been trying to stay away from cause I still plan to street drive the car as much as my daily. Didnt want the extra vibration from the stiffness. But if my Hinsons do warp depending on life span I may just have to bite the bullet and sacrifice a little comfortability and get solid mounts. I had solid mounts on my previous car and it didn't bother me nearly as much as all the passengers that would get in and complain about the noise or vibration ha.
This was something I had been trying to stay away from cause I still plan to street drive the car as much as my daily. Didnt want the extra vibration from the stiffness. But if my Hinsons do warp depending on life span I may just have to bite the bullet and sacrifice a little comfortability and get solid mounts. I had solid mounts on my previous car and it didn't bother me nearly as much as all the passengers that would get in and complain about the noise or vibration ha.
No, you can not run the LS3 heads on the LS6. You could sell the LS6, buy an iron 6.0, install LS3 heads and come fairly close to breaking even as long as you don't fall victim to the "while I'm in there" mentality.
That is called Project Creep. I know a little about it... because I invented it. I curse that day!!
I'll just stay the course with my Stock LS6 bottom end and run moderate boost. Power is like Hot Peppers. Sure, the Carolina Reaper is at the TOP of the food chain - but once you get to Habanero it doesn't really matter. If I get 600 WHP will I REALLY need 750? I just want a car that will kick some Butt and make me giggle when I carpet the throttle. The LSA will be all that and More.
02-19-2019, 06:43 PM
I made the VERY poor financial decision of getting into a relationship with a female who has a kid and have heavily become their financial crutch, which has taken away from things that aren't necessities such as "Racecar Fund". 
