Lifted Head, Replace Head Gasket?
05-06-2018, 04:36 AM
#21
Melting Slicks
It's ok, he's a moron who rants with idiotically long posts for nothing on pretty much every forum. FFS if building 10 looms at a time with hundreds of connections, only a full retard would spend the time soldering all of those when crimping is faster and better, even by hand.
05-06-2018, 04:37 AM
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
Woah, we have gone on a tangent about crimping here. Mods, I think it is clear I did not lift a head. I am having excess blowby, and crank case pressure is pushing oil. I see no reason to keep this thread alive at this point. If I have any other questions about my problem, I can start another thread. Please lock this one down if possible. Thanks for all of the information guys.
05-06-2018, 10:12 AM
#23
Former Vendor
Bret, I appreciate the information! I live in Forney as well. I did not perform a leak down on it. I climbed under the car yesterday, and I definitely leaked some oil. It is coming from the front of the motor, around the timing cover area. There were zero signs of leakage around either head from what I can see. I then tested my meth kit, and I was only getting a dribble out of it. I took the lines apart from the filter to the intake tube, re-assembled, and it flowed great. I am using an Alky dual nozzle kit. I decided to take the car out, and do a boost hit to see what happens.
The car has had a very small oil leak for a little while, and I am thinking it finally blew the gasket. 8 psi and a smoke screen. The car does fine as long as it is out of boost. I am beginning the tear down today, pulling the head unit and the accessories, and will be performing a leak down on it as well while I have it apart.
The car has had a very small oil leak for a little while, and I am thinking it finally blew the gasket. 8 psi and a smoke screen. The car does fine as long as it is out of boost. I am beginning the tear down today, pulling the head unit and the accessories, and will be performing a leak down on it as well while I have it apart.
05-06-2018, 11:56 AM
#24
Melting Slicks
It's ok, he's a moron who rants with idiotically long posts for nothing on pretty much every forum. FFS if building 10 looms at a time with hundreds of connections, only a full retard would spend the time soldering all of those when crimping is faster and better, even by hand.
Relax man, high blood pressure can keel u
lets see,
1. my soldering method is faster than any crimping.
2. also arguably cheaper as if it matters
3. not everybody gets angry from reading long posts lol. Most ridiculous argument, ever, to hate somebody on the internet for.
enough talk lets look at some numbers
58: 2371 = roughly 3/125, or 12.91/528
35 : 528 = 35/528
35 : 12.91 = 2.7 times more likely, even with long posts
Last edited by Kingtal0n; 05-06-2018 at 12:48 PM. Reason: defending myself, because this is not his first time accusing me of... what did I do again?
05-06-2018, 12:30 PM
#25
Racer
Thread Starter
I’ve seen situations where the car will push oil out everywhere it can when there’s a situation of too much crank case pressure. I’m curious as to where you end up on the leak down test. Please share once you do the test. I hope you didn’t hurt your engine. But you’re in the right place and have the attention of the right people if you did.
05-06-2018, 05:41 PM
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
Well here we are, cylinder #1. I do have some air going down into the crankcase. I set piston #1 to TDC, and backed off all of the rocker arms to take leakage from the valves out of the equation, since I know for a fact it is a bottom end issue.
I ran down to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap leak down gauge. I am not very impressed by it. Cylinder 1 is showing a 65% leakage. I checked cylinder 8, 3, and 4 and all of them are showing around here, some even more.
Correct me if I am wrong here, but in my mind, if the cylinders were leaking this bad, on atleast 4 of the 8, I would see smoke coming from the exhaust. The car was burning zero oil, not any.
Any thoughts on this? I am thinking I may need a higher quality gauge. I followed the instructions, and hit youtube to watch other people use the same gauge, so I know I am following the correct process to check it. But I can adjust the regulator and make the gauge read whatever I want once it is hooked into the cylinder.
I ran down to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap leak down gauge. I am not very impressed by it. Cylinder 1 is showing a 65% leakage. I checked cylinder 8, 3, and 4 and all of them are showing around here, some even more.
Correct me if I am wrong here, but in my mind, if the cylinders were leaking this bad, on atleast 4 of the 8, I would see smoke coming from the exhaust. The car was burning zero oil, not any.
Any thoughts on this? I am thinking I may need a higher quality gauge. I followed the instructions, and hit youtube to watch other people use the same gauge, so I know I am following the correct process to check it. But I can adjust the regulator and make the gauge read whatever I want once it is hooked into the cylinder.
05-06-2018, 11:52 PM
#29
Former Vendor
Well here we are, cylinder #1. I do have some air going down into the crankcase. I set piston #1 to TDC, and backed off all of the rocker arms to take leakage from the valves out of the equation, since I know for a fact it is a bottom end issue.
I ran down to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap leak down gauge. I am not very impressed by it. Cylinder 1 is showing a 65% leakage. I checked cylinder 8, 3, and 4 and all of them are showing around here, some even more.
Correct me if I am wrong here, but in my mind, if the cylinders were leaking this bad, on atleast 4 of the 8, I would see smoke coming from the exhaust. The car was burning zero oil, not any.
Any thoughts on this? I am thinking I may need a higher quality gauge. I followed the instructions, and hit youtube to watch other people use the same gauge, so I know I am following the correct process to check it. But I can adjust the regulator and make the gauge read whatever I want once it is hooked into the cylinder.
I ran down to Harbor Freight and bought a cheap leak down gauge. I am not very impressed by it. Cylinder 1 is showing a 65% leakage. I checked cylinder 8, 3, and 4 and all of them are showing around here, some even more.
Correct me if I am wrong here, but in my mind, if the cylinders were leaking this bad, on atleast 4 of the 8, I would see smoke coming from the exhaust. The car was burning zero oil, not any.
Any thoughts on this? I am thinking I may need a higher quality gauge. I followed the instructions, and hit youtube to watch other people use the same gauge, so I know I am following the correct process to check it. But I can adjust the regulator and make the gauge read whatever I want once it is hooked into the cylinder.
out of curiosity, did you set your zero on the leakage gauge (gauge in the right) before hooking into the cylinder?
05-07-2018, 12:18 AM
#30
Former Vendor
In addition if I had to guess by your video I’d say you have a ring problem since the air is rushing out the oil fill cap.
Open the throttle body and listen. It air is coming out there you probably have an intake valve problem.
Go to the exahsut and listen. If you hear air there it’s probsbly an exhaust valve problem. Go to the coolant surge tank if you head a leak there it’s in the combustion chamber probably.
Open the throttle body and listen. It air is coming out there you probably have an intake valve problem.
Go to the exahsut and listen. If you hear air there it’s probsbly an exhaust valve problem. Go to the coolant surge tank if you head a leak there it’s in the combustion chamber probably.
Last edited by The Race Engine Shop; 05-07-2018 at 12:21 AM.
05-07-2018, 01:02 AM
#31
Racer
Thread Starter
In addition if I had to guess by your video I’d say you have a ring problem since the air is rushing out the oil fill cap.
Open the throttle body and listen. It air is coming out there you probably have an intake valve problem.
Go to the exahsut and listen. If you hear air there it’s probsbly an exhaust valve problem. Go to the coolant surge tank if you head a leak there it’s in the combustion chamber probably.
Open the throttle body and listen. It air is coming out there you probably have an intake valve problem.
Go to the exahsut and listen. If you hear air there it’s probsbly an exhaust valve problem. Go to the coolant surge tank if you head a leak there it’s in the combustion chamber probably.
I wish I knew what the gap was on my rings. I know they were set a little wider, since the motor was being built for boost. I had the bottom end assembled at the same shop who did the bottom end of my 383 for my camaro. The rest of the motor was assembled by me.
Right now, I have the rocker arms loose, so all valves are shut. I need to finish testing all of the cylinders, and see if they are all consistent around the same amount of leakage. I had the cap off on the surge tank and did not hear any air there, or see any bubbles. I am also planning to do a compression check on all cylinders once I finish the leakdown testing.
Last edited by 69GTO96Z; 05-07-2018 at 01:03 AM.
05-07-2018, 02:25 AM
#32
Former Vendor
Yes, I hooked the gauge up to air, backed the regulator all of the way off, and then set the gauge to zero, locked the regulator, and then connected it to the cylinder.
I wish I knew what the gap was on my rings. I know they were set a little wider, since the motor was being built for boost. I had the bottom end assembled at the same shop who did the bottom end of my 383 for my camaro. The rest of the motor was assembled by me.
Right now, I have the rocker arms loose, so all valves are shut. I need to finish testing all of the cylinders, and see if they are all consistent around the same amount of leakage. I had the cap off on the surge tank and did not hear any air there, or see any bubbles. I am also planning to do a compression check on all cylinders once I finish the leakdown testing.
I wish I knew what the gap was on my rings. I know they were set a little wider, since the motor was being built for boost. I had the bottom end assembled at the same shop who did the bottom end of my 383 for my camaro. The rest of the motor was assembled by me.
Right now, I have the rocker arms loose, so all valves are shut. I need to finish testing all of the cylinders, and see if they are all consistent around the same amount of leakage. I had the cap off on the surge tank and did not hear any air there, or see any bubbles. I am also planning to do a compression check on all cylinders once I finish the leakdown testing.
you might be suprised on how big of a ring gap you can have and still run just fine. It sounds like you calibrated the leak down tester correctly. Good idea on the cimoresion check. Though I think it sounds like you’re going to be pulling the cylinder heads.
05-07-2018, 09:31 AM
#33
Racer
Thread Starter
you might be suprised on how big of a ring gap you can have and still run just fine. It sounds like you calibrated the leak down tester correctly. Good idea on the cimoresion check. Though I think it sounds like you’re going to be pulling the cylinder heads.
05-07-2018, 10:25 AM
#34
Safety Car
This is off topic, but can anybody read the spark plugs and tell me what timing looks like?? Is it to much or can put more into it??? Thanks
05-07-2018, 11:03 AM
#35
Racer
Thread Starter
05-07-2018, 07:24 PM
#36
Former Vendor
05-13-2018, 11:36 PM
#37
Racer
Thread Starter
Little update here:
I finally did a leakdown on all cylinders. While I am not happy with the results, all 8 cylinders were very consistent. I followed it up with a compression test, and all 8 cylinders were making between 150-160 psi of compression.
Knowing the small oil leak the car had before it started dumping oil was in the front of the motor, I decided to go ahead and tear it down on the front. The more parts I took off, the more obvious the leak was coming from right around the balancer. I pulled the balancer off, and the front seal slid off with the balancer in 2 pieces, and a third piece was left behind the timing cover. This is the 6th motor I have put together, and the third LS, so I am pretty familiar with aligning the covers by now. When I installed the balancer on the stand, I heard a slight pop, but everything looked good. I was in a rush, so I made the wrong choice of not pulling the balancer back off.
After finding this, I have decided to get a new seal for it, clean the front end of the motor up, put it back together, and see what happens. Worst case scenario is it still blows oil, and does have to come out. Best case scenario is the motor is okay, and I can put off a better bottom end for a little while longer.
I did have a slight amount of oil behind the throttle body, so I have ordered a Mighty Mouse wild set-up and will be installing that before I drive it again. I also found the pulley on my brand new GM water pump is already cracked, so a PRW pump is on order as well.
I finally did a leakdown on all cylinders. While I am not happy with the results, all 8 cylinders were very consistent. I followed it up with a compression test, and all 8 cylinders were making between 150-160 psi of compression.
Knowing the small oil leak the car had before it started dumping oil was in the front of the motor, I decided to go ahead and tear it down on the front. The more parts I took off, the more obvious the leak was coming from right around the balancer. I pulled the balancer off, and the front seal slid off with the balancer in 2 pieces, and a third piece was left behind the timing cover. This is the 6th motor I have put together, and the third LS, so I am pretty familiar with aligning the covers by now. When I installed the balancer on the stand, I heard a slight pop, but everything looked good. I was in a rush, so I made the wrong choice of not pulling the balancer back off.
After finding this, I have decided to get a new seal for it, clean the front end of the motor up, put it back together, and see what happens. Worst case scenario is it still blows oil, and does have to come out. Best case scenario is the motor is okay, and I can put off a better bottom end for a little while longer.
I did have a slight amount of oil behind the throttle body, so I have ordered a Mighty Mouse wild set-up and will be installing that before I drive it again. I also found the pulley on my brand new GM water pump is already cracked, so a PRW pump is on order as well.
Last edited by 69GTO96Z; 05-13-2018 at 11:37 PM.