Feeler: Trade A&A V3si for Maggie?
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Feeler: Trade A&A V3si for Maggie?
As the title says, just putting out a feeler. Considering trading my v3si kit for a Maggie if the deals right.
#6
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that's still true when comparing them to twin screw PD blowers like Whipple & Kenne Bell
i was providing a recommendation among the different Magnuson systems (typically all referred to as "Maggies") & describing the benefits of the newer TVS kits over the old MP designs.
MP112
MP122
TVS1900
TVS2300
i was providing a recommendation among the different Magnuson systems (typically all referred to as "Maggies") & describing the benefits of the newer TVS kits over the old MP designs.
MP112
MP122
TVS1900
TVS2300
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nothing terrible other than belt slip occasionally but i do like the thought of a more open engine bay and less routing... i feel like it would free up a ton of room.
#11
Le Mans Master
slip completely depends on how hard you're pushing it & what serpentine system you're running.
with a jackshaft style 2300, the stock 6rib will easily hold 8-10psi - even when i was running a 2.9 & underdrive. i'd recommend either 1:1 or overdrive rears, though, to allow the biggest pulley on the front (gives more belt wrap / contact area). above 10psi, 8rib (or 10 if you're spinning to the moon) would be more beneficial... and while you're changing that out, opting for the OD balancer will allow for a bigger drive pulley. Heartbeat & LSA/LS9 kits are a little different in that the direct drive design requires using smaller drive pulleys & bigger balancers to achieve the same output - making wider belts useful earlier on.
heat is a bigger issue with any PD blower than a centrifugal, but the roots systems run cooler than twin screws - with the TVS lobes being a better design than the old MP lobes.
there are a few places even making thermal spacers for the different systems to help further isolate the heat & improve circulation (i'm actually installing one on mine in the next few days). folks are still using them to make big power regardless.
as for the power differences between roots blowers & centrifugals, a PD will make instant torque & boost essentially proportional to how hard you're pushing the gas pedal while a centri is gonna start at stock & ramp up to max as the RPMs rise. the manifold design of the PD units also is more restrictive than the stock intake at the upper RPMs, so without some port work, they typically won't flow super-great up top, which is why a centri car at the same peak boost level will yield higher HP numbers (because HP is a linear function of torque... the same torque at a higher RPM = higher HP), however, the average power is usually better with a PD, and they have a lot more noticeable kick in the low & middle operating range because the centri shines in the top third of the RPMs. if you look at the dyno sheets, you'll see that there's usually a big split in HP/TQ with a centri because it makes more torque up top, where PD units are really close in number or sometimes even have a higher torque number (meaning the top end is really falling off for one or more of a dozen reasons).
with a jackshaft style 2300, the stock 6rib will easily hold 8-10psi - even when i was running a 2.9 & underdrive. i'd recommend either 1:1 or overdrive rears, though, to allow the biggest pulley on the front (gives more belt wrap / contact area). above 10psi, 8rib (or 10 if you're spinning to the moon) would be more beneficial... and while you're changing that out, opting for the OD balancer will allow for a bigger drive pulley. Heartbeat & LSA/LS9 kits are a little different in that the direct drive design requires using smaller drive pulleys & bigger balancers to achieve the same output - making wider belts useful earlier on.
heat is a bigger issue with any PD blower than a centrifugal, but the roots systems run cooler than twin screws - with the TVS lobes being a better design than the old MP lobes.
there are a few places even making thermal spacers for the different systems to help further isolate the heat & improve circulation (i'm actually installing one on mine in the next few days). folks are still using them to make big power regardless.
as for the power differences between roots blowers & centrifugals, a PD will make instant torque & boost essentially proportional to how hard you're pushing the gas pedal while a centri is gonna start at stock & ramp up to max as the RPMs rise. the manifold design of the PD units also is more restrictive than the stock intake at the upper RPMs, so without some port work, they typically won't flow super-great up top, which is why a centri car at the same peak boost level will yield higher HP numbers (because HP is a linear function of torque... the same torque at a higher RPM = higher HP), however, the average power is usually better with a PD, and they have a lot more noticeable kick in the low & middle operating range because the centri shines in the top third of the RPMs. if you look at the dyno sheets, you'll see that there's usually a big split in HP/TQ with a centri because it makes more torque up top, where PD units are really close in number or sometimes even have a higher torque number (meaning the top end is really falling off for one or more of a dozen reasons).
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StayinStock (09-17-2018)
#13
Supporting Vendor
I've owned both Centris and Maggies. Maggies are incredible fun. Although it will narrow your field down, it would be nice if you could get a 2300 or 1900 over a MP112 or 122. It really depends on how much boost you're planning on running. They are great fun and I believe much more reliable when you're considering long term ownership. I switched to Centri for the top end and never had any regrets about it, but that's not to say I didn't love the Maggie. If you wanted both power and that low end power, nitrous is very effective with Maggies.
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StayinStock (09-17-2018)
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I think for now I'm gonna stick to the V3 the more I ready... I think its time to do a fuel system and pulley it down and see if i cant make this 5.3 hang on for dear life lol