Oil pan replacement?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Oil pan replacement?
So there I was......blower belt snapped or whatever, unfortunately on its way out of the engine compartment it grabbed the blower drain line and yanked the fitting out of the oil pan taking a chunk of the cast aluminum with it. FML. My own fault for not replacing the belt( I knew it was on borrowed time) but I was short on time and trying to move the car from my old house to my new place.
So my question is can I support the engine from the top, drop the cradle and remove the oil pan while the torque tube is still all connected? Or will I have to yank the engine out again. Either way a new pan is in my future. Should I go with a batwing pan or LS2 style pan?
Also was thinking to avoid this ever happening again has anyone plumbed the blower drain into the passenger side of the oil pan staying completely clear of any moving parts lol
Thoughts??
Last edited by LPDesRoche; 10-29-2018 at 08:40 PM.
#3
Melting Slicks
So there I was......blower belt snapped or whatever, unfortunately on its way out of the engine compartment it grabbed the blower drain line and yanked the fitting out of the oil pan taking a chunk of the cast aluminum with it. FML. My own fault for not replacing the belt( I knew it was on borrowed time) but I was short on time and trying to move the car from my old house to my new place.
So my question is can I support the engine from the top, drop the cradle and remove the oil pan while the torque tube is still all connected? Or will I have to yank the engine out again. Either way a new pan is in my future. Should I go with a batwing pan or LS2 style pan?
Also was thinking to avoid this ever happening again has anyone plumbed the blower drain into the passenger side of the oil pan staying completely clear of any moving parts lol
Thoughts??
The following users liked this post:
LPDesRoche (10-30-2018)
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
That's the answer I was hoping to hear. Yeah I have seen that fixture that you are talking about. Looks kinds sketch but it will work. I will do it a bit differently, but same theory.
Leeland
Leeland
The following users liked this post:
LPDesRoche (10-30-2018)
#7
Burning Brakes
Yes you can, I've done it multiple times. I have a bar that has two A frame legs, one on each side, with rubber feet attached the sits on the fenders and supports the motor while you pull the subframe and drop the pan. It's feels a bit sketchy with the legs sitting on top of the fiberglass inner fenders but I've done it a few times and nothing bad has happened yet. I also use a jack/stand under the torque tube for some extra safety.
#8
Melting Slicks
Batwing would be better than the LS2....isnt the LS2 considered one of the worst pans ?
Presume you'd also need to get correct pickup pipe too etc.
Presume you'd also need to get correct pickup pipe too etc.
Last edited by stevieturbo; 10-31-2018 at 06:50 PM.
#9
LS1/LS2/LS3 wet sump pans all use the same pickup and windage tray.
#10
Burning Brakes
It's great for space, but it's not supposed to be very good for for trapping oil near the pickup tube when there's a lot of lateral or horizontal acceleration.
#11
I do a track day now and then, but I'm not trying to set any records. Pretty much just out there to have fun, stress test whatever mods I've done recently, and remind my friends how much faster my car is than their imports. Been to the track twice on the LS2 pan so far, hasn't blown up, but the car doesn't have a race seat, harness, or sticky tires, so I'm not really at the extreme end of the G-force spectrum. I always overfill by 1qt. Based on my experience, I'd say the LS2 pan is fine for moderate track use, but for anyone who is seriously into HPDE or road racing, I agree the batwing pan is a better choice.
#12
I jacked the engine up by the oil pan with a 2x4. Once cradle was out I cut two 4x4 s the same length, drilled one hole on the end of them for my engine mount stud to sit in and sat the engine down on them. Worked great.