When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
the back lights can be sliced into the dash lights or any lighted switch. You can use the rear hatch release and tap them into the lights there they will not be dimmable but very easily done. You can find dimmable lights at the radio but i'm not sure how tough it is to get to the wires.
Thanks ken-rx. I want the back lights to dim if possible, so I'm going to check out the A/C & radio area first. I know that area is tight, found that our when I put my NX switches in there. Hopefully this afternoon. :cheers:
I tried the rear hatch/fog lamp switch area and found the voltage there for the small lamp is in the mV range, maybe LEDs. This is too low to light up the lamps in the AutoMeter gauges. I also, tried the one at the traction control switch and found the same thing. I found one connection in this area that the voltage increased as the lights dimmed, so that won't work either. I checked out the thread above and will try the AC/radio area if someone knows this will work. Don't want to pull the center console if it will not work. Who has done this and can confirm this will work? Or am I just getting the wrong results?
I did cover the AutoaMeter lamps with the green cover and the white numerals are not too far off in color from the dash and they're not too bright as to distracting on the highway at night. Just went to check it out. I did notice the lamp in the rear hatch/fog lamp switch had a blue cover over it. Maybe that's the answer. Any sugestions? :cheers: :confused:
The solution that I posted in my thread WILL work. That wire puts out plenty of current - as long as you adjust the cluster brightness up enough via the dimmer switch. I know, as I have done it. On the autometer, I used the red light "condom" at first, but it seemed a bit dim and didn't match the nice voilet/blue glow that my ken king cluster bezels gave off. I switched to just using the bare bulb and it was a bit better, but I still wasn't happy. Finally, I replaced the autometer's 12v bulb in the back of the autometer gauge insert with a cluster of 3 near UV LED's (CREE 5mm UV LED's (T1 3/4) 405 ± 5nm ) wired in series and a couple small resistors (about 25 ohms worth) to drop the voltage down just below 12V to keep from overdriving the LED's which are rated from 3.7V to 4v max each. The autometer gauge now matches the glow of my dash and it causes the orange needle on the guage to flouresce nicely at night making it very visible. I'm very happy with the look now. Yes, you do have to take the center console off and then take out two torx 15 screws to get behind the AC controls, but that's EASY to get to. (You don't have to take the whole dash apart.)
Ok johnno, I'll try that tomarrow. I like the LED idea. Did you get those at radio shack or off the internet? I may try some blue paint on the incandecent bulb until I get the LEDs. Thanks, again. :cheers:
I went to Autozone and happened to find some blue bulbs in the little ricer section that they have for 2 or 3 bucks. They look good and work pretty well, but are just a tad dim. I like the sound of what Johnno did.
I hooked mine up to the light source for the traction control button, this is very easy to get to, just lift up the center console and lift on the plastic behind the button. One problem though, the lights kept turning off when the system saw too many amps being drawn on the circut. (The dash lights are more complicated than I originally thought). Someone said the answer was a transistor between it and a constant power source (the dash lights actually pulse at a very fast rate), but I just disconnected the light for the traction control button and it works fine now minus the traction control button backlight.
Yup, got the LED's off of Ebay. Several folks sell them in packs of ten. You can usually pick them up for about $15 to include shipping. Just do a search on Ebay for the terms "LED UV 5mm" and you'll find them.
I wouldn't go lower into the wavelength range than 405nm though. (Don't want to fry your eyes - at 405nm they are still plenty visible as a bright violet/purple light and don't put out that much UV - they cause the gauge's needle to glow nicely.) Radio Shack doesn't sell these - they are very bright and much higher performing than anything the shack sells. I did buy the resistors there though.
Good info johnno & quicksilver2002, thanks. Right now I have mine connected to the hatch release/fog lamp switch until I can try the AC controls, LEDs, ricer bulbs or paint. The output here is enough & I still have the switch light working. That traction contol switch was easy to get to, also. Would have been nice if either switch area had worked. :cheers:
I found some blue coated bulbs at AutoZone this afternoon. I will see how they look later this evening. Still like the thought of dimming, so I will probably persue the connection at the AC/radio. :cheers:
Tried the UV LEDs suggested above. The gauge needle definately showed up good but the numbers not quite what I wanted. I tried 2, 3 & 4 LEDs but didn't find the right combo. The blue incandecent bulbs were not acceptable either. Found some blue LEDs here http://www.acscontrol.com/Index_ACS....edge_Lamps.htm
The little curcuit board that the LEDs and resistor are mounted on had to ground down a little with the dremmel so they would fit in the bulb holder but not a real problem. I liked the MegaBlue the best and tied them into the A/C controll that Johnno talked about and they dim very nicely. The console removal was only a PITA because my NOS switches are in the ash tray. Will check tonight for a final review.
Thanks to all for the suggestions & ideas. :cheers: :smash: