During a 1/2 mile event last year, I sheared a corner off the PS/Alternator bracket that held an idler pulley. It happened on the first pass of the day, so not fun. This is on a 2001 C5Z with A&A Si with 10% IW overdrive balancer and 3.6 pulley at 650rwhp.

I'm starting the removal of the old bracket and want to have as little issues as possible with the original OEM power steering pulley/pump assembly. I realize it can be quite a pain to get at the bolts that are under the pulley. I don't mind buying specialty tools that can get at them, rather than pressing off the pulley. What worked for you guys?

My other thought was just to break the plastic section of the pulley to get the pulley out of the way and then replace it. However, I don't want to deal with pressing it on again. I'd like to purchase a new LS2 pulley with the pump along with it. Does anyone know where I can find the pulley/pump assembly together already mounted and ready to install? I saw it at one point and now can't find it.


Thanks!

 

I looked on rock auto and they dont seem to have a part number that includes ps pump and pulley already installed. new AC delco pump is over $400, and the LS2 pulley is $15.

Honestly the worst part of it all was trying to pull off the original plastic pulley. I got a puller and it just broke the stock plastic pulley. I don't think I had quite the right kind of puller for the job... a 'bearing splitter' style should make pretty easy work of it. But it's still possible to snap some plastic on it. Once it was broken I had easy access to the bolts and would have cut it more if needed for easy removal from the bracket. I ended up going to a shop and hydraulic press took care of it pretty easily. Pressing the new pulley on was quite easy, and easy to adjust if needed.

A laser alignment tool would be handy here to make sure the new pulley is aligned... I don't think pulley being flush with the end of the PS pump shaft = correct all the time. If you have the secondary drive system it's probably less critical and you'll have a little more leeway. You are able to adjust the pulley a bit once its back on the car, but very fight fit with the EBCM right there. My pulley is pressed on slightly past flush with the end of the shaft-- it was laser aligned by a shop. But prior to them 'fixing' that, I had zero issues with the secondary drive belt system and belt showed so signs of wear.

I actually ended up getting a reman PS pump from parts store while I was here and I've had zero issues. I read some horror stories on here though, which had me scared at first, but so far absolutely no issues. Worst case, at least it has lifetime warranty I guess.

I pretty much described the process that you don't want to do, but I'm not sure if there's really an easier way. I think a company called turn one does PS pump rebuilds, maybe they can supply them with pulley installed?

 

Thanks Aaron.

Yeah, trying to avoid having to press on/off that pulley. I recently did that (actually, same car just before I left for the event) to press it back on the shaft a bit further to get it back in alignment due to a bad squealing noise. It was a total pain in the ***. No matter what I tried, I couldn't get enough clearance and had to remove the ABS module aluminum mount from the bottom so I could then push the ABS module out of the way. I had to hold it over while my buddy used the pulley tool to press it back on. Then it didn't want to budge and it took some effort.

I'd really prefer not to do that again, especially since I'll be going at it solo. If there is a better way to do it, I'm definitely listening.

 

East coast has a solution for this, you keep the broken bracket on...

eastcoastsupercharging.

edit: believe this is it. https://www.eastcoastsupercharging.c...ts#prettyPhoto

 

I don't understand the kit, and they don't tell you anything about it. Can you explain?

I already have the newer style bracket here to install. Rather than a workaround or bandaid, I'd prefer the new bracket solution.

 

It's in their installation instructions - basically the bracket uses other bolt hole on the physical block versus the bracket for a stronger solution.

I've installed the newer style bracket myself as well - sounded you wanted to avoid messing with the bracket and pressing the PS pulley on - the above solution would allow for you to keep the old bracket as is and just bolt the idler onto the block.

 

Ahhhh, ok. I was thinking that was the case, but looking at photos of the bracket I wasn't sure it would bolt in quite right. Thanks for taking the time to explain that. It does sound like a simple solution for sure, but I'd probably feel better replacing the bracket in the end.

I think I'll just break apart the existing pulley to get at the bracket bolts and pull everything off the car. Then I'll order a new pump and LS2 pulley and press it on before installing the new bracket.

 

its a major pain but you can get the pump off by loosening each bolt a little at a time with an open end wrench. Its not the quickest or preferred method but when its late at night and you don't have the right pulley puller and you just cant wait to hear it run you do what you have to. if i ever pull mine off again its getting the ls2 pulley.
Food for thought, a flip drive requires that you cut that part of the bracket off. So your bracket is not garbage yet.

 

There’s a company that makes tighter steering racks for vettes I can’t remember the name but they’re well known in road racing/vette world. I am almost positive they make beefier race ready PS pumps & all the stuff that goes along w/ it.

one turn? Turn one?

i dunno google em- you’re welcome 😉