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I'm reading ahead. On my last kit with the old bracket and a P1sc i had tk cut the ears off the tensioner pulley mounts on the water pump.
I just read the current C5 instructions ahead of this new bracket/V3Ti combo which will be going in and nowhere did I see mention of clipping these tabs off. There is just a single photo with no writing showing the tensioner being unbolted.
It would be dead easy to use the cutoff wheel on them right now while nothing is in the car if that's what needs to be done.
Do we still need to cut the tabs off for the newest brackets / install?
I looked at the A&A site briefly and for the optional drive kit you have it does talk about trimming a bracket. I'm upgrading to a d1x with the a&a drive, and the optional accessory drive kit like you have so hopefully we can figure it out!
I just pulled my p1sc procharger kit off and I'm having DTs from no boost!
That is referring to the base of the accessory bracket which needs the entire lower pulley box cut out so the AA tensioner can be installed to the block. Optional equipment which ive got.
The post here refers to install of the head unit bracket high on the passenger side. I guess I should pull it out of the box and see how it fits.
On a side note....ALWAYS use the more expensive AC Delco OE 251-744 water pump! The cheaper AC Delco Professional 252-846 is made in China and the housing tolerances are slightly different. Shouldn't cause an issue with an NA car, but a blower car uses brackets that mount to the water pump and will cause you problems with belt alignment. This can save you thousands, don't ask how I know! It's good to properly have the tabs milled by a machine shop for the cleanest looking install in order to clear the tensioner for when it moves a lot due to belt whip.
*Every application may be different depending on your combination of aftermarket parts, but my A&A kit w/direct drive system required water pump milling. Also, these SC kits are designed around the specific dimensions of UNTOUCHED FACTORY GM LS heads. If you're using aftermarket or even ported/polished/milled factory heads...the end of those heads are usually slightly milled to clean them up and make them look new again. Even an aftermarket head can be a few thousandths different than a factory head in length. Remember, this is the location where the supercharger bracket bolts to the end of the head and will cause belt alignment issues if its not properly mic'ed out and shims made by a machine shop to compensate the dimensional differences. Do not trust the laser alignment tools, its a crude way of measuring and will only get you in the ball park. Many will have to put the car on a dyno and run it under a full load while watching how the belt tracks in real time. Another tip....every car is different, but if you're reaching higher levels of boost, you might also consider running 2 BOV's in order to prevent blower surge that can cause belt issues too. I went with two and its very quiet for daily driving compared to a single setup.
Last edited by C6-LS2-MN6; Apr 28, 2022 at 04:29 AM.
Solid point about aftermarket head measurements. And i agree that the standard laser alignment tools are utter crap. I did see one which attaches firmly to the hub and can at least give you a fair ballpark. The common ones which bingie strap to a pulley dont inspire confidence.
Making me wonder about the pump. Off the top of my head I don't recall the part number, but i do remember that it is the late C5 version which is the C6 pump just with the C5 bell pulley.
On a side note....ALWAYS use the more expensive AC Delco OE 251-744 water pump! The cheaper AC Delco Professional 252-846 is made in China and the housing tolerances are slightly different. Shouldn't cause an issue with an NA car, but a blower car uses brackets that mount to the water pump and will cause you problems with belt alignment. This can save you thousands, don't ask how I know! It's good to properly have the tabs milled by a machine shop for the cleanest looking install in order to clear the tensioner for when it moves a lot due to belt whip.
*Every application may be different depending on your combination of aftermarket parts, but my A&A kit w/direct drive system required water pump milling. Also, these SC kits are designed around the specific dimensions of UNTOUCHED FACTORY GM LS heads. If you're using aftermarket or even ported/polished/milled factory heads...the end of those heads are usually slightly milled to clean them up and make them look new again. Even an aftermarket head can be a few thousandths different than a factory head in length. Remember, this is the location where the supercharger bracket bolts to the end of the head and will cause belt alignment issues if its not properly mic'ed out and shims made by a machine shop to compensate the dimensional differences. Do not trust the laser alignment tools, its a crude way of measuring and will only get you in the ball park. Many will have to put the car on a dyno and run it under a full load while watching how the belt tracks in real time. Another tip....every car is different, but if you're reaching higher levels of boost, you might also consider running 2 BOV's in order to prevent blower surge that can cause belt issues too. I went with two and its very quiet for daily driving compared to a single setup.
thats the one i used. i checked the dimensions and they where spot on which is crucial to in stalling a blower. seen cheapes not to spec and ur going to be running around n circle trying to figure out belt issues and yes its not all cheapest for people who use cheapes
Last edited by helga203; Apr 28, 2022 at 01:27 PM.
I checked my order history and I have BOTH. 251-744 and 252-846. And FML.... but I don't remember which is which anymore. I replaced the pump on my daily last May when I did a SLEW of long-term maintenance updates as pre-emptive work. My current thought is that the "pro" went to the daily 99 and the OE is the nicely painted one sitting on the engine stand. I hope it's the "right" one since I've already painted the piece and had the end of the pulley spot welded to the shaft.
Now I've got to google the oe gm part number. Can you read it zoomed in there? I figure the fact that it has a GM stamp on it is a good sign.
AA install
thats the one i used. i checked the dimensions and they where spot on which is crucial to in stalling a blower. seen cheapes not to spec and ur going to be running around n circle trying to figure out belt issues and yes its not all cheapest for people who use cheapes
