What sound and/or mpg difference would there be going from one cam to the other:

230/242 .608/.615 114+5 (btr ccp jam cam)

To a ballpark of

221/240 .619/.617 121+8 (loose ballpark #s mentioned)
Or
220/242 .619/.617 113 (btr stage 2)
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I ask because I already have the first one installed on the 402 which isn't ready to run just yet. Soon I'm thinking. But before I get going the last few steps I thought I'd confirm my sticking with the jam cam or consider something else now while it is apart and easy.

I mentioned going with a smaller cam for less noise and generally less power since my combo is going to be hairy enough as it is. And I could always increase boost to compensate.

Combo at present
402 forged
10.52:1
Prc 225s (318 cfm @ .600)
Solid valvetrain
Jam cam
V3Ti w/ 3.6 pulley and 10% od hub
E85 capable fuel system

I want to be sure I can enjoy the hell out of the car and I'm thinking it has more cam than I'll need. Online dyno numbers are like armchair generals, but ibe seen na combos similar push 550rw and similar combo with same blower range from 700 to 950rw, psi and e85 depending.

If there is no point where i can have my cake and eat it too, I'll leave the jam cam in there. But if I can have a better all around cam and just push boost that's the ticket.

​​​​​​​What other suggestions are out there?

 

With a healthy blower, I want the cam to be snappy and get up into the rev range to spin up the blower
You also need to cam accordingly for the blower spin rate on your pulley to determine the max rpm you want to run
most of the LS manifolds start to nose over much past 6600 na, but do better under boost so look for the max area under the curve rather than a more peaky max effort cam for best street performance.

I also like the milder lobes to be easier on the springs and valvetrain. A real rowdy cam that slams the valves open holds them there and slams them shut makes great power but not so great for trips and traffic ect....

As you say, you can make the big spank with the blower, so let it do the work unless you are chasing a drag strip record where the big bumps make more sense making power in a much narrower power band

cams kinda rock the torq curve up or down in the rpm range. I tend to go with the folks that have done lots of cent blowers for specific recommendations. It really helps then having lots of experience tuning that blower cam combo.

Think about how you use the car most, gearing, stick or auto, torq conv. and what rpms the blower reaches recommended spin rate and back off a bit so you don't over spin the blower.

You have the nice 10 OD balancer, which should help avoid belt slip. I'd tend to go more conservative on the cam timing for best street manners. The blower will extend the useful power band.

My buddy says it best, "cam to get you into rpm range where the blower or turbo goes into boost" once you get there, the forced induction will get you up into power you will struggle to hook anyway

I think the BTR Stage II is where I'd look. I think they have both blower and turbo stage II that will run the engine in the right rpm band for best power on the street You spend alot more time on the street away from WOT so a broader pull range works better without the soggy bottom end that trades broad power for a bigger peak power that you get to less often.

 

No reason to not go custom when you aren't working with a stock cubic inch setup.

 

Not answering your question but if you are interested I have a Comp Cam grind 54-000-11 for sell. I just bumped up the listing in the parts for sale. section. George

 

I was looking at spinning up between 6500 to 7000 with the jam cam. The V3Ti on 3.6 hits its 52k suggested rpm limit at 6500. I run it on independent oil, not sharing with the engine.

I would still target a 6500 rpm cam, want a broad torque curve for a stroked/blown setup and run as smooth as possible.

And that's the thing. It is a street car more than a race car. I want to enjoy it in every scenario, not just at full tilt. I hold the exact same thought on usable power for the street and traction limitation. I will be fighting for traction.

The engine does also have PAC .660" dual valve springs, crower steel shaft rockers, johnson link bar lifters, and liberty pushrods. It can be spun.
The car will have a Haltech 2500T running the show which will help with traction limits also.

But now I'm thinking.... can this monster run real smooth AND make gobs of power at the same time without all the noise? I've never been one to chase a dyno number.

But those 22x/24x ballpark cams don't sound smooth or small either.

 

you can get it more streetable and since you have a 6500 rpm limit on the blower, no point for caming for 7000 peak

let the blower do the work and go more conservative for improved street manners. Car will still rip your face off when you get on it.

You won't miss the 10-20 hp the more rowdy cam might bring. Go with a broader torq curve on the street. A peaky cam is no fun with a blower car.

 

I was planning to over spin it some. Still might.

But with this doubt about my cam choice this might open up pandora's box trying to determine a good small style cam for a stroked street centri.

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no doubt a good flowing engine with big displacement will mellow out the big cam.

I'll post up my cam specs on the 416. They looked large by huge with 612 intake, 608 exh

Throttle response is still snappy and it pulls like a bear. I haven't taken it over 6500 though

 

I'd be curious.

The battle for me simplifies down to... Keep the jam cam and enjoy the racket. Or wuss out and go with a really small spec that would be centri friendly but pretty mild on its own.

I'm also curious how the Haltech, once tuned, would smooth out the jam cam over time with its learned tables.

 

It is only now that I am glad I installed the potentially leaky Edelbrock timing cover with the removable cam plate....

 

Build specs, I believe lift is around 612 and 608 I have another slightly higher lift cam new in box.

I think the Jam Cam looks pretty good if it behaves for you The haltech tune if done just right should also make it run better

I'm interested in getting my Haltech installed in a c5 if you know someone very good with that Platinum

it's got dual wb, 8 channel egt, and although a few years old, all new in box.

the 2004 vette soon getting the d1x to replace the p1sc

Forged LSA 416” 6.8 Liter
10.5CR
LSA block (new) same at CTS-V, aluminum block with reinforcements and billet main caps for big boost
Callies Magnum 58x Forged Crank
Callies Ultra Billet H-Beam Rods
JE Pistons LSX FSR Forged
Mahle bearings
ARP hardware throughout
Katech piston oil squirters
WCCH stage 2 CNC’d LSA heads, 75cc chambers, .660 lift dual springs, hollow intake valves.
Comp limited travel race lifters
Ls3 rockers with trunion kit
Billet double roller timing chains.
Comp timing cover
TSP ported oil pump
Custom billet core cam 237/257 116+4
Crank pinned
Ls3 intake
Ls2 silverblade throttle body
Racetronix adapter harnesses throughout.
ZR1 map sensor

 

Aside from the block, squirters and bigger cc chambers that's not far off from my 402 assembly. Nice hefty cam for that 416.

As for Haltech, that will be one of my last custom work pieces on the car. Bret has a way to install it which I will follow where the factory ecu still believes it is in charge so you can pass the sniffer test on the street and retain factory gauge cluster working properly. Mine is a street car that can run fast, not a race car on the street.... Or... Mostly....so I have no interest in the lcd dashes available. Though I do want access to switch tune maps and settings. I may have to get one of their touch pads. What I *really* wish were possible would be piping that same lcd screen output to an HD video feed because I have a double din head unit with hd and a synaptic touch screen the same as our cell phones. It would be great to have access to the haltech by just switching feeds on the pioneer. That would be the same as of they shunted output to a tablet. Although maybe I can reverse engineer this all so I have a builder box like a pi or udoo stashed in the car somewhere running win10 and the haltech interface and just direct access to it via the touch screen. Then I can either use haptic controls or BT mouse/keyboard.

 

I'd consider your bigger cam choice a "medium" cam in a 402. I'm running 238/254 on a 346. I was able to tune it to good street drivability on 3 bar SD tune on 411 pcm, with 3:42 gears.... only minor chugging at low rpm, parking lot stuff. I can roll 6th in the highway at 70mph fine. So you'll be just fine with the jam cam and Haltech to dial it in. You can make both your choices sound lumpy or smooth with the tune, so I wouldn't let that part sway you either way.

 

Brent is the man for the haltech. I need to get of my broke @$$ and get mine installed.

We are going to test it offline for a fun college project.