im swapping the v3 for a v2 a need to drill the pan for oil returnt (left/front corner). whats the best way to do it?

i was going to take off the spring and get in there with extentions above the cross member. im having second thoughts, because apparently the whole suspension on one side have has to be removed (right?). is there another way?

 

Are you trying to spin it harder or something? I was happy to swap from a V2 to a V3 haha. Luckily, the instructions from the manufacturer are still on their site

https://www.aacorvette.com/c5install...tructions.html

 

sure, but how does that help? they lifted the engine, took out the abs-bracket, moved the rack (what else?) and then that corner is still hard to reach, no? you have to tap it in several steps, with oil comming out, unless you know the thickness of the wall.*

so when swapping to the v3, how did you get at that fitting? did you manage to plug it with the spring on?

and why did you swap anyway?

*how thick is that wall?

 

...."the best way", is to totally remove the oil pan and drill it, then clean all the metal shavings. It only takes one little accidental aluminum shaving to ruin your engine bearings. But hey....its your motor and luck. If its a cheap $3K factory LS1...go for it, but if its a $12K built race engine....I know which choice I'd go with.

 

not worried about "shavings" as i will be using a spiral flute tap. besides, how will a chip in the pan ruin an engine? please tell, maybe im missing something.

 

It helps by giving you step by step instructions on how to drill the oil pan...it's spelled out right there

• Locate and center punch the hole approximately .400” from the bottom of the pan and as far over to the right as possible. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole. Use the supplied 9/16” Rotabroach (very small hole saw) to cut through the pan. Be very careful as you break through the pan. You may even be able to drill until there is just a paper- thin amount of aluminum left and actually pop the disc of aluminum out. The Rotabroach will allow you to drill a large hole with little or no aluminum chips.
• Take a 3/8” NPT tap (not included) and fill the flutes with heavy grease to catch any chips. Tap the hole a little, then remove and clean the tap of shavings. Put more grease on the tap and do it again. Most 3/8” NPT taps use a 9/16” square drive. (measure yours to be sure) A square socket on an extension will make the tapping process very easy. Tap the hole approximately 1/2”deep or until the brass fitting will just start. Be careful not to go too deep. The oil pickup screen is very close to this location and can be damaged if you are not careful. Clean up any stray chips. Drain the engine oil and install a new oil filter. Clean the threads and fitting with carburetor cleaner or something similar and apply a small amount of silicone sealer to the pan threads as well as the threads on the 3/8” NPT to ½ barbed fitting. Make sure there is a seal formed all around the fitting. There is plenty of aluminum to form threads in the pan. Oil leakage at the fitting is a non- issue. Attach the drain hose to the fitting and tighten with a clamp. Run the hose up towards the area where the supercharger will be mounted.

A&A is glad to help, why not just give them a call directly with other questions? I'd Google the wall thickness of the pan or just call them.

I didn't have to do anything special to get to the fitting. Took the hose clamp off of it, pulled the hose off, and tightened a vacuum cap on it. Hasn't leaked in a couple years now. You don't need to take the fitting out...just cap it.

I swapped because the V2 I had was polished and not exactly smog legal, so a black V3 popped up for a good price and I jumped on it. My only regret is that the V3 is dead quiet all the time, whereas the V2 had a very pronounced whistle/whine to it at idle and through the rpm range.

 

they apparently used to have a hosebarb fitting, its different now.

you didnt have to copy that stuff in here. it applies if you pull the balancer at the same time. josh advised agains my idea to take out spring, didnt get back on what the problem was. though. so im trying to avoid doing it and finding out it doesnt work for some unforseen reason.

somebody on here must have done the v3 → v2 swap, no?

 

Yup no worrings. Friend dumped two rockers that destroyed bearing and moist went down in the oil pan. He just took it apart and found them. So many people don't think the pick up screen and oil filter does its job, But i don't know maybe gm didn't put that much research in the filter system. C6-LS2-MN6 might right. JMI.

 

you can drop the cradle and get the oil pan off pretty ez we went to the end of the bolts, jacked the engine up and could get the batwing pan off

No matter what you do drilling it you're at risk getting junk in the pan that will get into your oil system NO BUENO

get the pan off, it's not that hard

 

If you are sourcing your own parts ( fitting and hoses) does it have to be in that exact spot or can you put it somewhere else on the pan that is easier to get to without removing a bunch of stuff

 

its about the only spot possible, even if there was a possibility in the back, you still need to keep a decent slope in the drain line.

so iv done it over the hollidays. it went well:

1. i cant imagine doing this with the spring in there, if lifting the engine or not. access must be a real pain. even the pressure port would be tough, i wonder what gorilla hands are needed to get the plug loose from above with a short allen key (removing alternator of course).
2. abs bracket doesnt need to be moved at all, you are 1" to the left of it when drilling. (you can see the wooden spacer i glued in to keep the position steady.)
3. if you use an extention for the little hole saw you can drill at a perfect angle to the pan. in my case, as i had the drill extention with the small chuck, i used that and made an addapter for the saw only. this put me a bit higher when drilling (chuck has to clear cross member), not that it matter in any way.

in hindsight a real pita was routing the pressure line. in the end it worked out as they say/show. its best to really think it through before starting as its so stiff. yes you can guide it throught the hole in the ps bracket if you stick a suitable piece of wire into the fitting. and i even managed to not completely take out the bracket bolts.

another thing i fortunately realized is that you cant remove the blower without somehow undoing the return line over the engine (blower hanging from ceiling or hood?). access is very limited even on the bench. so i got myself another line that i can separate in the middle. its less stiff and larger now, cost me $150 though (bpt/an fittings are pretty much non-existent here.) the spiral flute tap was expensive, but got the job done well, chips being directed out of the hole.

oh, btw, it would be possible to do it without the angle attachment, i found the position easier this way and also got a 2:1 speed reduction