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It shouldn't at all. The only issue would be if you have a poorly designed set of headers such as Texas Speed which has the collector hang too low below the frame even on factory height mounts. Speed Engineering, TPS, ARH, Kooks, Stainless Works would all be perfect. And note, even the Texas Speed would be fine if the car was at factory ride height. But we all tend to lower them for good reason.
It shouldn't at all. The only issue would be if you have a poorly designed set of headers such as Texas Speed which has the collector hang too low below the frame even on factory height mounts. Speed Engineering, TPS, ARH, Kooks, Stainless Works would all be perfect. And note, even the Texas Speed would be fine if the car was at factory ride height. But we all tend to lower them for good reason.
Awesome! Thanks for the info. I haven't figured out the turbo-back exhaust yet, so I will just make sure nothing dips below the frame.
Or just dump the exhaust out of the front fenders. LOL
bat wing pan is such a PITA for the turbos. Glad to swap that "mechanic blocker" pan out! Changing out the starter and working on the TTiX was a cast iron BEEotch with that pan
bat wing pan is such a PITA for the turbos. Glad to swap that "mechanic blocker" pan out! Changing out the starter and working on the TTiX was a cast iron BEEotch with that pan
glad to be rid of it!
Ah, I have a PTK turbo kit, so my manifolds are forward facing. I don't have any issues with the stock oil pan.
I swapped the mounts that came with my Huron Speed kit out for AMT mounts and never looked back. So much easier to package. That said, I had to be far more careful about shaving them down to fit my compressor covers.
I swapped the mounts that came with my Huron Speed kit out for AMT mounts and never looked back. So much easier to package. That said, I had to be far more careful about shaving them down to fit my compressor covers.
Damn, you still have to grind the AMT to clear the turbos?