I have a 2000 FRC and I ordered the A&A kit over the weekend
While I have the car apart are there any parts I should change out while doing this ? I’m definitely going to fix my AC as it decided to quit the other day but should I change out anything else ? Also is the stock radiator good enough for this upgrade? Car has 60k miles on it and as of now it’s running fine. Just want to do this right and not wish I had changed something out while it was apart. Thanks

 

This is what I did when I installed the A&A on my 99:

1) New alternator\ps bracket- one from a later year like 2003\2004 as they are built stronger
2) New valve springs as the oem ones suck and could float at higher rpms
3) Captured need bearings. Should do this SC or not
4) Swap out the PS pulley with a C6 one. Reason being is the C5 one is plastic and could break into pieces due to age and now the added stress of the SC. The C6 one is metal and has slots in it for easy reinstall.

 

Congrats!
I also ordered the A&A V3Si kit last weekend for my near stock 04Z ( LT's, RST twin disk )
I'll share my rough plan for getting everything up and running.

Phase 1, get the kit up and running as-is + c2501 harmonic balancer + ID1050x instead of the provided 60# injectors.

Phase 1.5, *unplanned things that might break or require attention immediately.

Phase 2, flex fuel sensor + single or twin pump external fuel system to allow for plenty of headroom with E85.

 

Will you need a stand alone ecu?

 

c2501 balancer
Updated PS bracket (03 IIRC)
LS2 metal PS pulley

Stock radiator SHOULD be fine if your system is in good health. But you're also in FL, so depending on your driving style/needs, it may need attention. Nothing you can't do later though if you need to. Mine was fine during SoCal summers, but the extra humidity in FL may push it over the edge.

 

I have a big 415 ls3 car with d1x

I thought of 2 tunes
one for pump gas 93 with lower rpm ceiling of 6000
e85 for full kill tune at 7500 which will max out blower spin rate with pulleys I have
should be enough flow for 1000 hp
I have new a&a blower drive with 8 rib which should help
custom IW balancer with dual keyways and 10% OD

thoughts?? dual tune a bad idea

car will prob make plenty of power even on pump 93

 

no, from my understanding my P59 (04) ECM has native flex fuel, once enabled with flex fuel sensor in place. combine with a 2 bar map sensor i should be inside function for the stock ECM.

 

Depending what ECM you have, flex fuel can be very simple.

 

might be worth the PCM swap when I retune

 

So one thing I read on a facebook page tonight is an under drive harmonic balancer isn’t good for superchargers
is this true as I bought my car with one on it.

 

Suggested for the "while I'm in there" crowd since you'll be pulling things apart to pin the crank at the very least:

Valve Springs - stockers wear out or can snap in extreme cases so this is a durability upgrade, but also they keep the valves from floating at upper RPM when in boost which eliminates certain dyno graphs where on the top end you see the power flutter (this can also be fuel starvation)

Fuel pump(s) - not a fan of relying on voltage boosters to make GPM on factory pumps. 03/04 tanks are going to be harder to install a pump on so I might be fine with the relays there. But 97-early 03 they are so easy to change out that there is no excuse not to put a higher flowing pump in which will fit with oem bucket or with minimal modding.

Hub - replace if factory for age/wobble risk

Trunions - cheap and easy while you do the springs, good security against fishing metal out of your block if one lets go

From there start planning on the next weakest links such as clutch, flywheel, master, slave, trans mount and torque tube rebuild. Not that the blower will kill them, but that with age they need replacing and with the blower you will want to replace them with parts which will support the build. Please god.... no one do the LS7 / Luk clutch and heavy flywheel which feel like a UPS truck. This is a sports car. Light is GOOD.

Hate to say it, but if you thought of a cam then now's as good a time as any. One round of mods. One tuner fee. And with the crank pinning access now is the time to do the cam, lifters and timing chain.

 

Is there good benefits to adding some ported 243 heads while I have everything apart ? I see a nice set for sale locally and I will go pick them up if it’s worth the time and cost. I’m doing all this myself so labor costs aren’t an issue. If I do that is there a preferred head gasket for this project?
I already have an LS6 intake manifold as well.

 

I kept my 243s stock. From everything I read it doesn't seem the juice is worth the squeeze when going forced induction. Sounds like maybe 15 rwhp gain when FI which is what? 2 or 3%?. Certainly nothing you will feel. If you're chasing numbers and have the money then maybe.

 

The reason I said ported heads is a guy is selling a freshly ported set with all new springs and seals etc for $1200 in the wrappers still. Now I could get a used set for $500 and have no idea what I am getting or go this route. Or is adding the 243 heads at all a waste since its boosted ?
I just want to do everything this one time while its apart so I figured I would also do the trunnions and wondering if I should do lifters if I do change the heads.
I have a new balancer and the kit comes with the balancer pin kit.
I got the upgraded power steering bracket and pulley
My AC compressor is on its way out so I am changing all of that out while its easier to get to as well.

 

I bought everything on your list so far except the trunnion kit. Undecided on which to go with but the BTR one looks like a solid option

 

Who ported them?

 

The ad says Hartbeat Racing here in FL
I just pulled the ad up again and I may have confused the ad with another as I have been looking at heads every day for weeks. Says this

Fresh set of 243 heads that hartbeat racing did new Manley valves, btr spring kit $1200
I have seen ads for the same amount for 799 heads too. Just wondering if upgrading to a 243 head over the stock LS1 heads is worth it while its all apart

 

I'm iffy about buying used stuff from someone I don't know. Even if they have good intentions they also may not know all the facts about parts/services done.

If everything is good w those 243s it would save you some labor and the price of upgrading the valve train. I'd guess $300 saved. So how much hp is worth $900 to you?

Also something I wasn't aware of when I had my sc installed is the radiator cradle needs to come down. IMO it scrapes too often. I wish I would have went with the Dewitts cut down to help avoid this as much as possible.

 

Best of luck with the install. You should have a very fun car to drive once everything is in place.

 

Thank you. I’m looking forward to the build as I love working on cars but just want to do this once hence all the questions as there’s so many knowledgeable people on here.