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Had my a/a vortech kit dyno tuned by cpr here in Az a few weeks ago. Car has a bolt on kit with a v-2, ghl exhaust, and stock manifolds running 91. Saw 9lbs and put down 482hp and 450tq. Time for long tubes and a cam!
Had my a/a vortech kit dyno tuned by cpr here in Az. Car has a bolt on kit with a v-2, ghl exhaust, and stock manifolds running 91. Saw 9lbs and put down 482hp and 450tq. Time for long tubes and a cam!
thank you for using us! Even if you don't have us do the work for the cam/headers do keep us in mind for the parts as we stock a lot of this and match the other online guys.
thank you for using us! Even if you don't have us do the work for the cam/headers do keep us in mind for the parts as we stock a lot of this and match the other online guys.
If you could go back in time would you stay with the A&A kit? Anything you would do differently? I was thinking about adding one to my stock 2004. Haven't had much luck finding any locals who had the kit installed. Got a list of some nearby installers and have been getting install quotes from all of them. Thanks!
Grats on the setup, always nice to see a quiet stock engine with a powerful output thanks to forced induction.
Here is something I noticed that has not been address properly however:
Boost leaks cause power loss, it is energy leaking out of the pump. That cap will blow off eventually.
All forced induction setups need to be pressure tested for leaking
It also needs a hose from the compressor inlet to the valve cover vent, I don't see one, so there is a chance the PCV system has not been addressed
Has the PCV valve been upgraded for forced induction?
Has the Passenger valve cover been routed into the compressor inlet intake like a factory Supercharged engine?
Has the ... Pressure tested
These things need to be done to ensure reliability, longevity of the engine. Crankcase pressure should drop below atmospheric during boost to maintain piston ring function and evacuate blow-by gas before it can circulate into oil and create deposits inside the engine.
If you have questions or would like more videos and info I have a phd's worth
If you could go back in time would you stay with the A&A kit? Anything you would do differently? I was thinking about adding one to my stock 2004. Haven't had much luck finding any locals who had the kit installed. Got a list of some nearby installers and have been getting install quotes from all of them. Thanks!
Yeah I would stay with the A/A kit. They are well known in the corvette world and have been around for a long time. They are the go to for corvette superchargers in my opinion. ECS is another good option as well though but depends if you want a centrifugal or twin screw style. Twin screw is basically power right now no matter the rpm. I had a whipple on my 03 Cobra and it was a blast. Centrifugal needs some rpm's before it starts getting into power but really pulls hard up top.. Pros and cons to both. Truth is this kit was put on the car back in 2012 and still works flawlessly. I had it dyno tuned again just for my own peace of mind since it hadn't been tuned in over 10 years. Still has no issues and runs well.
I am getting what looks to be a small amount of spark blowout or maybe valve float up top. Need to replace plugs and tighten up the gap to see if it fixes it but runs solid.
Its not spark blow out, and its not valve float, its something in the valve train, probably lifters, that these era V8 exhibit frequently
You can see the same exact trend at 5200 to 5500rpm on this 2002 5.3 I tuned, factory lifters 200k miles is my guess.
Spark blow out acts like a rev limiter and causes misfires, it would have ended the pull and not made it to red line
I've tuned hundreds of forced induction setups over 25 years my channel is littered with 4 6 8 cylinder turbo tuning sessions
I am getting what looks to be a small amount of spark blowout or maybe valve float up top. Need to replace plugs and tighten up the gap to see if it fixes it but runs solid.
What valve springs are in your engine & how many miles?
What spark plugs and what gap?
Don’t know current gap. It has stock valve springs with 56k miles
I would start with valve springs. I went with slightly higher spring rate LS6 springs with my stock cam A&A build years ago and wind it up to 6500 often.
In this video I think I might have some misfires/blowout (you can see a couple of puffs) - but my graph looks better in the 6k to 6500 area as far as not having any drop offs.
The plugs are TR6 @ .035 I believe.
I would start with valve springs. I went with slightly higher spring rate LS6 springs with my stock cam A&A build years ago and wind it up to 6500 often.
In this video I think I might have some misfires/blowout (you can see a couple of puffs) - but my graph looks better in the 6k to 6500 area as far as not having any drop offs.
The plugs are TR6 @ .035 I believe.
I want to do a cam next so figure springs would be part of that plan anyways. I will change the plugs out though. I don’t feel any issues up top but the graph shows something.
I want to do a cam next so figure springs would be part of that plan anyways. I will change the plugs out though. I don’t feel any issues up top but the graph shows something.
If it were my $$ I'd go to 12 psi and stick with good fuel
spend the money on e85 if you can
pullies are cheaper and 9 psi is not much boosta muv cams are expensive
If it were my $$ I'd go to 12 psi and stick with good fuel
spend the money on e85 if you can
pullies are cheaper and 9 psi is not much boosta muv cams are expensive
If it were my $$ I'd go to 12 psi and stick with good fuel
spend the money on e85 if you can
pullies are cheaper and 9 psi is not much boosta muv cams are expensive
Makes sense, I'm getting ready to buy the A&A. I also have a FAST 92MM and LS2 throttle body ready to install, most likely cam, springs while I'm tearing into my 2002 C5 Z06.
Got it dyno tuned
