I have always wanted a supercharger. I have owned a turbo, and two cars on nitrous, but never a supercharged one. Backstory: Got married, bought my dream house, bought my dream car. Got divorced, kept the car, had to sell my house. Bought the supercharger because life is too short to go slow.

Very happy with my purchase. Very excited to install it. The complication, is that I live in an apartment complex and we cant work on cars here. My landlord is constantly in front of my place doing maintenance. I don't want to be a bad tenant. Life is easier when you follow the rules.

So I am planning on asking around, friends, to see if someone will let me use their driveway for a weekend. In anticipation of that I want to make sure I have everything and that I am prepared. That said, I have some questions. Some of these might be stupid, but they are necessary. I have directions. They came from the seller. What I don't have is: Belt tensioner wrench, Torque angle meter, Small drift punch, "appropriate" reamer for the crank pin kit, new GM fuel filter and Fuel line disconnect tool(s). I could use some advice on these because I have never bought or used these before. The manual says I need to install a new fuel filter. I have 130k on the car so its probably a good idea.

I can easily buy stock spark plugs, a bucket to catch the coolant, hose clamp pliers and intake manifold gaskets. I also need an oil catch can. (Damn these catch cans are expensive)

I have watched a few videos and read a few threads on removing the steering rack to pin the crank. I just hope my drill will fit in there without removing the radiator or AC condenser.

Things I am confused about:
I have a 2004 M6. Do I need to cut into the IAT or MAF sensor harness?
Do I just cut and extend the TPS wires?

If I am reading this correctly, Eaton makes Magna Chargers, but Lingenfelter designed this one? So if someone asks, do I tell them I have a Lingenfelter supercharger, or a Magna Charger?

Can I take the supercharger apart to inspect and clean it? I'm worried there's a gasket that I don't know about and will need a replacement. There's oil in the runners, much like my OEM intake manifold. I assume the previous owner needed an oil catch can as well.

I have an ARP crankshaft bolt and a pin kit. I need to buy an aftermarket damper. Mine looks ok, but heck, its got 130K on it and I want to make sure everything is in good working order. This probably means that while I am in there I should replace the oil pump, timing gears and chain. Is there a specific brand or model to go for? For some reason there are a lot of options on Summit. I don't understand why timing gears and chains have so many options.

How did you prevent your steering wheel from moving while the rack was removed? Hockey stick and tape?

For what it's worth I took the heads in for resurfacing and inspection around 2017 when I put the bottle on. The machine shop said they are perfect. I installed ARP studs.

I want to clean the aluminum. I am reading posts on Autogeek and Mike Phillips says "In my experience, acid products will not only stain uncoated and uncoated polished aluminum, usually a grey color, but because there's a certain level of porosity to aluminum, the stain will go "into" the aluminum, not just be "topical"."

I am considering buying a steam gun because the rest of the engine needs cleaning it too.
I am leaning toward a Coolingmist kit to keep temperatures down and provide some insurance for the engine. Just for water, not meth. Just for WOT.

I need to buy a high rise hood. At the moment I am looking at the high rise hood (#145136) at Corvette Central. I wonder how much color matching would be. I am probably pulling the trigger on the hood this week, so if you know of a better option please let me know.

Pics because I love pics.

 

I sent three emails today to a few industry professionals to try to find out a little bit more about this particular supercharger and figure out the things I need to know.

David Schwartz with Magnuson said this, and knowing the model, or at least a possible model, is really been able to open my research to a lot of things that I didn’t know.

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This is one of our very early MP112 jackshaft kits. It does not look like an intercooled model. If it has 2 hose ports on the back of the unit where the picture cuts off then it is intercooled.

Other than the install manual, I do not really have much information on it. This is a very simple kit. I would recommend inspecting the rotors to see the integrity of the teflon coating on the rotors. I would reach out to Superchargers Online to get a coupler and oil at the least to swap out.

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so this enlightens me in a couple of ways as I was unaware that it took oil, and I’m also looking at pictures online now, and it appears as if the two tubes on the drivers side may go to coolant lines. I either looked over that part in the installation manual or forgot entirely.

 

May I get some opinions from those more experienced than myself? I am reading quite a lot of opinions in different threads.

I have both the C5R timing chain in my Summit cart, and the OEM replacement chain/ gears combo (LS2) SUM-G6640. I am wondering if I could just replace the timing chain and use the factory gears. Unless the gears wear, which they might. I don't have enough experience to make an educated decision on this.

 

Im telling you ,you do not want to use that. Your going to regret it. Your going to be hurting

 

Can you please elaborate?

 

Your going to be hurting, because people are going to try and smack the **** out of your annoying smile on your face., because you will not be able to stop smiling. That's how i was anyway. And when i stopped smiling i just add couple 100 hp and get it back.

 

Thank you. I was like "****? Is there something I don't know and did I eff up buying this?" I had so many thoughts running through my head.

I'm researching which water injection kit I want to keep temperatures down. I have ordered almost all of the things I need for installation. I just need to price check Harbor Freight against Amazon for these stubby wrenches and line wrenches.

I applied for a military discount for the company I am buying the hood from. That should take the sting off shipping.

 

Hello Nick,

I've been building and tuning Vettes for the past 17yrs. I should be able to answer every question you have but don't have time to type it all out. Feel free to call or text me. I'll PM you my #


Bret

 

save your time and money and don't install that thing
old school
low cfms high heat no intercooler
not a good choice
yes you f'd up, but you looked before you leaped so not fatal
sell it if u can Not worth doing unless you have very modest goals and if so, why supercharge?
do some more homework on that thing, I would not go with it
it may have been cheap, there is a reason
this won't stack up to what you have already had well at all
just remember, you asked

 

Wow fixing to do the same thing exactly. I do have one question .
Being that is an early model, was it made to use on the 2 fuel line set up in 97 to 99 models .
I have a 98 I am installing it on but mine will be a TV 2300 unit with a Killer Chiller intercooler. And will have look at switching to a single fuel line setup .

 

I have seen various set ups. In the most recent instructions I received from Magnuson the pictures depicted a set up with two fuel lines.

Mine is a 2004 and it only has one fuel line.

I have successfully installed, ran and driven the car several times and done some data logging.

I have an unusual air noise coming from the supercharger. The staff at Magnuson recommended I perform a smoke test.

I received my smoke tester in the mail, unfortunately I have shingles right now and I’m unable to perform any work on the car.

I will report back when I have done enough data logging to finally go wide-open throttle, and when I have completed the smoke test.

 

I have the supercharger installed. The car runs great. I have a tune on it that my tuner is working with me to datalog. I have a concerning sound, see video (I am sorry its sideways).


I cannot for the life of me figure out the cause. It almost sounds like a tensioner pulley, but when I get close they seem fine. It sounds like it's coming from the supercharger itsself. It doesnt happen when the car is cold. It takes about 15 minutes of driving before it happens.

Full disclosure: This is new, there is a concerning ammount of oil in the throttle body after driving. Maybe the oil is getting on the rotors inside the body of the supercharger and creating friction? It's a shot in the dark. I emailed the video to magnusun and they said it sounds like an air leak. They said I should perform a smoke test. I did, and I cannot find any smoke coming out of anywhere, to include the exhaust pipes. I am not sure if this type of smoke lasts long enough to make it out of the exhaust pipes.

What do you think? Has anyone experienced this before? What might you suggest I try next? I'm kind of out of ideas.

 

I *might* have figured the cause out. I will continue troubleshooting. I think I need to buy some vaccum line and T into the vac side from the passenger side.

The *problem* stems from the install instructions being incomeplete, and variant models with variant instructions and variant vac line routing. Even the Magnacharger instructions from their website show a different routing, in the instructions. To say that differently, the manual says "do this" and it should look like this, then it shows you a diagram that is different than the instructions call for.

 

Adding boost you must have a way to vent the crankcase better than factory. I would assume that you hooked the connection from the valley cover to the supercharger? The reason you have a bunch of oil in the throttebody area is that the crankcase excessive pressure (from boost) is pushing the oil from the crankcase into the throttle body (no way to vent extra pressure). Once you pull that rubber cap off the valve cover you are allowing the crankcase pressure to vent. Hook a rubber line to the valve cover nipple and attach the line to a catch can. I would assume your problem goes away.

On A&A kits, they give you an addaptor that takes place of the oil fill cap but has a nipple that you connect a hose too. That hose then connects to the airfilter. (you don't need to do this method just stating that you have to vent extra crancase pressure under boost)

If you don't vent the pressure eventually the motor will vent it's self, buy blowing a seal. (likely a rear main)

KT

 

Thank you KT35. I ordered some vacuum lines in various sizes and some T's. I am going to order a catch can today. Thank you, really, for that knowledge.

 

If I remember correctly there should be a one way check valve on the vacuum line that goes from the valley cover to intake/super charger. The vacuum should flow from valley cover to intake/supercharger but not backwards.

It's been a while though so this may not be correct.

KT

 

Crank case needs at least 2 connections in wet/dry sump, I will assume wet sump for this

One goes from a Valve cover , usually passenger side, directly with as short hose as possible to the air filter tract.
Make sure valve cover is not 'restricted' some vette models have a restriction restrictor in a valve cover. It needs to be breathing freely the same diameter as the hose. Usually a 3/8" hose or near that.
The air filter tract is post air filter, PRE supercharger.
This tract maintains nearly ambient air pressure at all times.
This tract needs to drop to approx 1.5"Hg at wide open throttle to scavenge the crankcase which keeps oil from blowing out of the crankcase at wide open (all cars, turbo, na, supercharged, etc... everything ever made is like this , has this OEM hose like this)

That is the most overlooked aspect of forced induction PCV in... the world...
----
Next. other valve cover, or VALLEY cover, either one. Unrestricted orifice again. This hose is usually a slightly smaller diameter because there is a PCV or CHECK valve in line here, to limit flow. So the diameter is not as important. The PCV valve or Check valve prevents boost from filling the crankcase which ... blows oil out of the engine. And other potentially devastating long term issues (eventual wear and failure when crankcase pressure rises)

The hose runs from intake manifold suction (idle/cruise) to a check valve or PCV valve, to the valve cover or valley cover.
You MUST have a check valve or PCV valve capable of forced induction. Factory Chevrolet PCV valve generally not sufficient, they seem to leak. It needs to be pressure tested to ensure it does not leak. Fill the intake plumbing using an air compressor with 20psi of boost pressure or around whatever boost you plan to use to find any boost leaks and to check the PCV / Check valve for sealing.

here is a little diagram, generic.


Here is a little example from an OEM (BMW) manufacturer explaining some of these details, and results of not maintaining a vacuum in the crankcase at all times, so you can see the importance and terminology in action at OEM level where engine control systems have matured.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...45282-9999.pdf

This is how measurement is taken


If you fail to pressure test the intake system(20psi e.g. boost pressure test), and crankcase system(~1psi ONLY MAX) ,
and measure the crankcase pressure,

There is no way to tell in the short term whether its been connected and functions correctly. Its just guessing.