I have been doing extensive research on this. There are a few guys that seem to know this like the back of thier hand (ICULUKN-C5, JEFFH355, ALFROMSD)..unlike me.

I noticed they have so many combinations of setting it up so I guess the best way to do this is to describe what I want.

I have an A4 97. I have a few bolt-ons and stock internals and i will not be spraying everytime i drive it. I only drive on the weekends anyway so maybe like 1 bottle for every month or two.

currently looking at the TNT F1 Wet kit $600
I know i need copper plugs
I want a 100 shot wet kit so i know my stock injectors will be fine
I want the bottle (10LB)in the back compartment.
I know I will have the wot switch
I want the ability to start juice a higher rpms like 1000 or so to avoid just spinning and the ability to stop the juice right before my tranny shifts (i would think spraying while the tranny shifts will shorten its life)(window switch)
I dont even know what a bottle warmer is or if it comes with this kit
I dont know anything about the timing delay I read about
I would like to put the switches in the ashtray, but i seen the three switch thing comes from NX. I would like just to have one switch do everything.
that would be good for me.

Now saying I purchase this kit. What else will i need to purchase that i listed or didn't list that is not in this kit? And maybe an estimated price.

Sorry so many questions

I'm really looking to get almost the exact setup as (troy)TOPPFUELR@aol.com
I dont remember his forum name and cant find it right now.

:confused:

 

You will get everything you need in the kit, except for the bottle warmer,window switch, and spark plugs. For spark plugs, go with the NGK TR6's, gapped @ .038. A bottle warmer will keep your bottle pressure constant. You want the bottle to be at 1000 psi for optimal performance, a cold bottle results in low bottle pressure. With a window switch, you can set what rpm you want the nitrous to come on, and go off, it is not a good idea to spray below 3000 rpm's on a stock bottom end motor, as it causes a lot of strain.

 

Installing Nitrous is also more work than it sounds... :smash:

 

a good rule of thumb for retarding timing is 1 degree for every 50 hp gain. That also includes any other mods you have done.
cat back + intake is good for about 20 RWHP (28 FWHP) + 100 RWHP (120 FWHP) of N20 = 148FWHP or 3 degrees of retard. You can do it with LS1 edit. IMO its the safest way to retard timing. A little race gas at the track will be added insurance against detonation. With that being said. I would go with the copper plugs gapped at .038 or so. Check them often. The MSD window switch I would set above 3k and turn off before redline. Even though the runners on a LS1 are short (19" I think), puddling can occur if you dont have enough velocity to push the fuel + N2O through the intake. N2O backfire is very bad. I dont know of anyone that has a one button n2o system. The NX switch panel is pretty slick. The left button is the heater/ arm. The middle is the purge, and the right is the remote bottle opener open/ close. Good luck with your install. Take your time & don't skimp on anything.

 

What's a dual stage? Doesn't it mean that you'll shoot a smaller shot at lower rpm's and a larger one at higher rpm's?

example: 75 shot from 3,000 to 4,000 rpm's and 150 shot from 4,000 to 5,500

Is this correct, or am I clueless? :confused:

 

dual stage is for bigger shots of N2O. You cant spray a 250 shot and expect to get off the line. So you would spray a 100 from 3k to 6k, then add the second stage (150 shot) around 4500-6k. You can achieve similar perfomance with a progressive N2O controller. I wouldnt suggest going bigger than 150 though without going direct port.

 

What's a progressive nitrous controller? I'm considering running a SMALL shot of nitrous. Check sig.

 

progressive controller pulses the solenoids to only allow a limited amount of N2O & Fuel to be released in a time cycle. So you can say for the first second you only want a 50 shot, then after you get off the line, you want a 100 shot and at mid track you want a 150 shot. A progressive controller can do that.

*DISCLAIMER* Progressive controllers are harder on the solenoids, since solenoids were not ment to pulse. This will wear them out faster than normal, hence requiring a rebuild.